VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[motorbyclist]

NO. Copper cote is old shit.
Get yourself some nickel based anti seize. Stuff is good for extreme temps. I use it on everything at work. $$$ but well worth it.

copper anti-sieze is good for brakes

general purpose grease works well everywhere else (those footpeg bolts won't get above 50 degrees unless there is a fire)

Here is my next one, Does anyone know where the mounting points are for frame sliders on the NC30? I can see two but they are both on the engine and Im not completely keen to put them there although I am going to get a bracket made up so I dont have to cut my fairings, and that would reduce alot of the risk of the engine been damaged in a fall/crash

Honda used the fairing mounts. Joe public cuts the fairing and uses engine mounts.

If you want to mechanically protect your chassis/motor, use the fairing mount. The fairing will take the road rash after the mount took the impact. Either way you'll likely bend the rear subframe

i always follow that rule too but bumping the jet size is more of a performance upgrade. just like replacing your mufler.

im also wondering what brand oil every1's using on their bikes during winter?
repco holds that Castrol 4T? is that good?
and i havn't read alot of good things about these hiflow oil filters(considering they are quite cheap) soo im wondering if you guys run with that filter fine?? or i can get my hands on an orignal filter? or something better than the hiflow brand?

changing the muffler will require a re-jet. These bikes are engineered by HRC to run perfectly in stock condition; any variation on intake/exhaust will degrade performance without adequate tuning

I seriously doubt anyone has found any difference between the major brands of oil filters - just be sure to replace is every second oil change.

Would like to say yes, but I have those bolts that are like, threadless screws but have a grove in them that locks into place on the fairings, I dont know if these are stock? but looking at that kit they are not included?

they are stock.

Is their any dyno in Auckland that we can trust with our money for these V4's? .....If you hand in a tampered with NC30 to just anyone you'd be literally be throwing your money away.

totally agree. I use AJ at motohaus in kingsland. He's one of the best mechanic's I've met and a VFR fanatic too!

Thought I'd share a pic of my paper weight on my desk . 30 block with pistons 444cc. Of course this is for a Race use only. chur

oooooh who made that?

Yes I have now got a snorkel! Looking forward to trying it out but doubtful it will cure my hiccup at 5k. Needles need a little more trial and error.

for emissions reasons there is a flat spot at 5k programmed into the ignition.

HRC offers a fairly expensive solution, but exhaust/carby work can do a pretty fair job of it.

Ok, so my VFR has been down the road about twice (not by me) and I had known this prior to purchasing, I have a sneaky suspicion that the left clip on isnt straight and is crimped under the grip, as it is loaded with tape under the grip and the cutch fine adjuster digs into the dial cluster when the bars are hard right, just wanting to know if anyone has ever had this problem?

the NC30 will hit the speedo with the clutch if the lever is moved down into the ideal position. This is one of the very few flaws with the NC30, remedied in the NC35.

btw does anyone know exactly why there is a sub air filter element and if there is any change if you leave it out?

what do you mean? The paper does the filtering, the mesh supports the paper (or keeps the leaves out when you replace the paper it with unlubed foam)

Love the vfr400r, but im keener on getting the RVF400R, the old cbr600 is a bit sluggish in the twisties and i dont mind losing a bit of top end speed for agility. Now to find a low k 1 on trademe...

good call

you can't half of a 600 on a decent road in NZ anyway

, to resolve the hydrolock, google tells me to take out the plugs and turn the engine over? How on earth do you get to the front two plugs? Not to mention I just realised my plug socket is for normal sized plugs :-(

on BOTH the NC30 and NC35 the top radiator hinges out of the way enough to extract the plugs, but sometimes it's easier to remove it.

There are few changes between the vfr/rvf ...

yeah just a few - including the chassis and motor.

common parts include the swingarm assembly, engine casings, 2nd thru 6th gear, crankshaft, conrod and pistons. Oh, and the front rim/discs.

revisions were to the head, carbs, chassis (all of it), 1st gear, electrics, suspension, calipers, cosmetics.

The story told for the chassis is not one of revision, but starting again to come to a similar, but better solution.

result? slight loss of top end but better power spread, even nimbler handling, clutch lever height adjustment without hitting speedo and no hot air under the seat (reduced fire risk, too).

having owned both i'd be happy with either.... probably prefer the NC35

[motorbyclist]

Don't remove it, nor the flap at the end of it. Everyone just ends up putting them back on after finding the airbox needs the snorkel to function, and the air-ram created when the flap is removed hampers the motor above 80kph.

What you CAN do, is drill a few holes in the flap to let cool air into the snorkel rather than hot air. Don't overdo it.

FYI that flap is meant to get cold air to the carbs in the motor V.

The HRC mods are pretty intense and involve a lot of cutting, drilling, and installation of an intake duct

[Monty69]

He is re using an old classified. Cheaper that way.

Oh slut, well come july when im looking for 1 ill keep a closer eye on the pics rather than just reading the titles or searching for RVF!

[Monty69]

yeah just a few - including the chassis and motor.

common parts include the swingarm assembly, engine casings, 2nd thru 6th gear, crankshaft, conrod and pistons. Oh, and the front rim/discs.

revisions were to the head, carbs, chassis (all of it), 1st gear, electrics, suspension, calipers, cosmetics.

The story told for the chassis is not one of revision, but starting again to come to a similar, but better solution.

result? slight loss of top end but better power spread, even nimbler handling, clutch lever height adjustment without hitting speedo and no hot air under the seat (reduced fire risk, too).

having owned both i'd be happy with either.... probably prefer the NC35

If money is an issue, the vfr is excellent bang for buck and barely any slower than a RVF, but the RVF is rare and much better/moderner looking. Worth the extra coin for me anyway. VFRs are quite common now (especially on trademe) but you hardly ever see a RVF. You say that 1st gear is different on the RVF... i hope its shorter, as i found launching my mates vfr took a lot of revs and clutch to get it away from the lights quickliy, letting that pesky boy racer to gain a brief lead...

[HenryDorsetCase]

on BOTH the NC30 and NC35 the top radiator hinges out of the way enough to extract the plugs, but sometimes it's easier to remove it.



yeah just a few - including the chassis and motor.

common parts include the swingarm assembly, engine casings, 2nd thru 6th gear, crankshaft, conrod and pistons. Oh, and the front rim/discs.

revisions were to the head, carbs, chassis (all of it), 1st gear, electrics, suspension, calipers, cosmetics.

The story told for the chassis is not one of revision, but starting again to come to a similar, but better solution.

result? slight loss of top end but better power spread, even nimbler handling, clutch lever height adjustment without hitting speedo and no hot air under the seat (reduced fire risk, too).

having owned both i'd be happy with either.... probably prefer the NC35

you still need three very small hands to get the plugs out I find. two to hold the radiator, and one to undo the plug....

The other major difference between NC30 and NC35 is the 17 inch rear wheel on the NC35 (vs 18 on the NC30). If you put an NC35 rear wheel in your NC30 you will need a longer shock otherwise it doesnt sit or turn properly. you can also (I think) replace the dogbones (from memory the NC35 ones are longer?) or put in the HRC ones or copies. That guy Rich Oliver in the UK sells them.

I got the longer shock option: +12mm and its mint. Made a huge difference to ground clearance too: shows you how the old shock was sitting down in its travel..

[Icemaestro]

you still need three very small hands to get the plugs out I find. two to hold the radiator, and one to undo the plug....

The other major difference between NC30 and NC35 is the 17 inch rear wheel on the NC35 (vs 18 on the NC30). If you put an NC35 rear wheel in your NC30 you will need a longer shock otherwise it doesnt sit or turn properly. you can also (I think) replace the dogbones (from memory the NC35 ones are longer?) or put in the HRC ones or copies. That guy Rich Oliver in the UK sells them.

My nc30 has a rs250 shock that raises the rear so that I can only just get my feet on the ground (I'm 5"10 or so)...would that mean that putting a 17" wheel on it should drop the seat height a little, maybe back to stock height? ( I don't want to go to a stock suspension :-P)

And yes, it required 3 hands..though conveniently the engine head also holds the radiator away just enough to get tools in there :-)..kind of...

[DrunkenMistake]

Lol.. im 5'5 so with the stock set up I can only just touch the ground... :[

If I could drop it without ruining the way it handles etc I would

[HenryDorsetCase]

I'm 5 ft 4 and mine is tippy toes all the way. Its positively comical getting my leg up and over the rear hump as well. especially wearing leathers. Why havent I got a team of scantily clad pit-girls to lift me up and onto the bike and give me hand relief as well to calm my nerves?

I'm not sure how much of a drop the 18 vs 17 inch wheel would give you: it would depend on tyre profile which could or might make up the 12.5mm difference. I don't now have a stock rear wheel to measure from the ground to axle centre, but the 17 inch one with a 160/60R17 GPR alpha 10 is 310mm say.

[sil3nt]

My girlfriend must be around 5ft 4 and there is no way in hell i would let her ride my NC30! Barely touches the ground and its quite a reach to the bars with her lady parts smashed against the tank haha

[DrunkenMistake]

My girlfriend must be around 5ft 4 and there is no way in hell i would let her ride my NC30! Barely touches the ground and its quite a reach to the bars with her lady parts smashed against the tank haha

Lmao, yah the only thing I could think of doing is replacing the rear shock with a full adjustable one and making it softer (im about 90+ kg, a wee short fat fucker on a sports bike, now thats comical) and it would probably do me right.

[HenryDorsetCase]

My girlfriend must be around 5ft 4 and there is no way in hell i would let her ride my NC30! Barely touches the ground and its quite a reach to the bars with her lady parts smashed against the tank haha

every bike I've ever had has been "too big" for me. I've gotten used to it over the last 30 years and its not a problem really. seat to bar to peg relationship isnt too bad, they're high to get ground clearance.


having said that, I am reluctant to ride modern dirt bikes (35 inch seat height is about my nipple......) but a road bike is fine. bigger problem is some cruisers with the pegs out the front. Waaaaaay out the front and I can sit on the seat, put my feet on the ground, but cant get my feet on the pegs.

think of the fun you can have massaging the feeling back into her girly bits after she's ridden the bike....

[Icemaestro]

haha my wife hates having to jump on the pillion seat of my raised nc30 - she actually has to jump to get her leg up and over...mind you I'm probably the only one silly enough to try pillioning with this beast anyway!:-D

[DrunkenMistake]

Posted a lowering Q on the 400greybike forum and was simply told to talk to Rick Oliver turns out he has a lowering kit that drops the front and rear by 20mm, He also sells the HRC replica carb kit with the under tray air intake if I remember right if you free up your exhaust system and add the HRC kit it will put you up to something like 70hp I cant fully remember so dont take my word, but its a cool looking set up if you havnt seen it here is a basic link,

http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30hrccarb/index.html
would be primo, but you would need to add some kind of mesh over the front of the scoop if you were to use it on the road, just in case you suck in some road gravel

....

Wtf I went to post about finding a lowering kit, and I end up blabbing about a carb kit lmao

[Icemaestro]

The carbs/bike I had the person attempted to do all that, though they didn't go as far as cutting out the slides or putting holes in the carb bracket. you're welcome to whats left of the carbs if you want something to play with. I found that 1) fuel consumption was horrible (about 9km/L), and it had issues over 100km due to the huge amounts of air coming in (it had been rejetted, but stock pilot jet screw settings). Though I didn't have the hrc scoop either.

[DrunkenMistake]

yah the HRC kit comes with,

http://www.rvf.dk/rickoliver/
NC30 HRC replica carburettor kit
Equivalent to Honda part# 06160-NKA-000 and consists of -
4 - 8ZF needles
4 - 8ZG needles
4 - 1.0mm needle shims
4 - 0.5mm needle shims
2 - Front (4-hole) emulsion tubes
2 - Rear (5-hole) emulsion tubes
Also available as per original race kit -
Main jets #140 - #150
Pilot jets #38 - #42

Also the Jack down kit is about 50 GBP .. so $130 NZ?