VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

[motorbyclist]

good luck - tell us how long it takes as I've got half a roll of heat-wrap and I'm thinking of using it to try and keep the tail (and the seat) from heating up so much... might help the shock a bit too as there's a few rust spots and dirt on the otherwise reflective heat cover....

[HenryDorsetCase]

It took me an hour on Sunday to get the rear header pipe onto the exhaust studs. Next time I put a motor in one of these, I reckon put the motor on blocks, attach as many of the ancilliaries as possible, break the bike down so you can attach the frame to the engine, et viola.... everything is so bloody small, so densely packed it drives me MENTAL!

and I havent got the lower clamps or seals that get the Y pipe into the headers. grrrrrrrrrrrr.

hopefully once I do, thats the hardest part over.

[Jonno.]

Okay. So I just brought myself a very cheap 1989 VFR NC30 today .
It's in dire need of some loving: cracked tail fairing and major scratches but fixable. Mechanically sound.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-273633500.htm

The previous owner dropped the bike like it was going out of fasion .
But good deal for me. New windscreen tomorrow and hopefull a new front brake. (I test rode without a front brake, not to mension the only way to get down to the road from his house was via a steep gravel road; needless to say it wasn't until I got half way down did I realised what a stupid idea that was ).

Anyway, a few questions.

1. What kind of suspension options are there for this bike. I have done extensive reading but would like opinions? I have read that the stock leaves a lot to be desired and that 1989 models don't have an external reservior and that it gets too hot. Does anyone keep their stock suspension or would you recomend a rebuild or going to post 89 NC30 rear shock?

2. I read someone in here (cannot remember who) put Ohlins into their NC30. Was it worth it?
How much did it cost and did you get front and rear?

3. What's a good front tyre?

[PirateJafa]

Keep an eye on wreckers for later-model shock, but remember that there is no guarantee that the "new" shock will be any better. Generally people just keep their suspension. New oil in the front is about the limit of the adjustments. The price of Ohlins etc is pretty prohibitive for these bikes.

If you test-rode without trying the front brakes, hope like hell that those allegedly "new" front discs are straight.

Good front tyre is a Dunlop GPR A10. Good rear tyre if you're looking for stickyness is the same (GPR A10), but if you want a bit more longevity, go for a Dunlop GPR100.

[HenryDorsetCase]

O
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-273633500.htm


Anyway, a few questions.

1. What kind of suspension options are there for this bike. I have done extensive reading but would like opinions? I have read that the stock leaves a lot to be desired and that 1989 models don't have an external reservior and that it gets too hot. Does anyone keep their stock suspension or would you recomend a rebuild or going to post 89 NC30 rear shock?

2. I read someone in here (cannot remember who) put Ohlins into their NC30. Was it worth it?
How much did it cost and did you get front and rear?

3. What's a good front tyre?

1. Pull the forks and sell them to me. Or send them to CKT for a rebuild/gold valves and whatnot. about a grand

2. I put an Ohlins in my VFR400 trackday toy. dollar for dollar this is the best money you can spend on any bike. Its a LOT though. around $1600 at the time, no idea now.. Having said that, second hand Ohlins shocks have a trade in value, and a second hand value, and the customer service from CKT is completely faultless, even for me, a wobbling munter from down south. I needed to because I put a 17 inch RVF rear rim on mine, and I needed to gain back the lost rear ride height. Bear in mind also that your stock shock is 20 years old. so whatever damping it had was probably screwed in about 1995, particularly as they run hot due to the location of the rear header pipes....

3. Dunlop GPR Alpha 10.

I actually asked Robert whether Ohlins forks were available for the NC30 but his response was they were made for bigger bikes, the best course was the rebuild, new internals route.

Plus sourcing RWU Ohlins forks might be a mision. then you'd have to fit the wheel/discs calipers and get to buggering round with the triple clamps. Not really worthwhile, unless money was no object and you had no desire ever to sell it.

One of mine (I only have two) has a full Suzuki RGV250 USD fork/wheel combo onit. That might be for sale at some point, if I can ever source some NC30 forks.

[Jonno.]

Thanks for the replys.

Getting a stand made up (hopefully) this weekend and new master cylinder today and getting the r/r fixed ("new" but multimeter reading up to 17 volts at 4000 revs ). Very sad not being able to ride it (don't want to fuck up the battery).

I'll definitely have to think about suspension but that's probably towards the end of/after this project anyway. I'm going to take the forks apart (or have it done) cause they need painting anyway.
Fortunately I have a time limit for this projects (full in 4 months) But I want to be riding it as soon as

And yes I did check everything over many times because I was very dubious especially due to the very bad English in the ad. But I believe I paid a fair price (not the tm price) considering he just spent about a 3rd of the price on it.

[Jonno.]

Does anyone have any idea where I can get a new master cylinder?
Or what other common models will fit/work (I've read 600 cbr)?

Thanks

[koba]

Does anyone have any idea where I can get a new master cylinder?
Or what other common models will fit/work (I've read 600 cbr)?

Thanks

Whats wrong with the old one?

[Jonno.]

It's in two pieces

[lostinflyz]

Ohlins is the shit, but if your just on road, itll be cheaper to retrofit another shock.

For your master cylinder, any will work, but there are various piston diameter sizes, i cant rem what the original vfr is off the top of my head.

just a question but why are you painting your forks??? i assume you mean the outers.

If you wanna ride it just unhook the r/r, but dont go too far.



on a side note does anyone have any interest in my 4 into 2 exhaust (one left side, one undertail)???

[Jonno.]

Thanks I've found a 14mm master cylinder.
I'm painting the forks because they're scratched.
Thanks for the tip, I'll take it out for a little put but as I live up a 40 degree hill not too far

[motorbyclist]

1. What kind of suspension options are there for this bike. I have done extensive reading but would like opinions? I have read that the stock leaves a lot to be desired and that 1989 models don't have an external reservior and that it gets too hot. Does anyone keep their stock suspension or would you recomend a rebuild or going to post 89 NC30 rear shock?

2. I read someone in here (cannot remember who) put Ohlins into their NC30. Was it worth it?
How much did it cost and did you get front and rear?

the 1990 onwards had some adjustments in the front like preload and compression, and most racers reckon the rear is buggered if it's the original part.

Yes you can get the rear rebuilt, and you can get ohlins internals for the front and a whole ohlins unit for the rear.

if you ask me, you should get it working as it is first, then get the blingy parts as/if you require them. my NC35 has a heat shield fitted over the rear shock so perhaps look into fitting something reflective in there for that effect.


I know the current (maybe previous) owner of thie bike --> http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=272112828 and damn it looks and sounds good, but my stock (and bent) vfr still gave him the learn so if it's speed you're after, skill (and/or stupidity) are just as effective

[motorbyclist]

Thanks I've found a 14mm master cylinder.

looking for some calipers?

[Jonno.]

Lol, thanks. I'm just weighing up my options at the moment.
Main priority getting it 'up to stock' again.

[CRM]

Just swapped my VStrom for a mint 2002 VFR800 with Staintune pipes. I rode a '91 and a '99 and liked them okay - but just love the 02. It's a total grin machine from the instant I rode it. I think the sound of the Staintunes helps a bit

Anyway... there was no tool kit with it and I understand you need the special tool to adjust the chain. Are these hard to get or is there something else you can use that works okay?

I'm leaving tomorrow for a trip from Whangarei to Gore and back so no doubt I'll need to adjust the chain at some stage .

Anything else I should watch on them when doing large distances? I don't even know where you check the radiator water level - I'm guessing you need to remove the fairings?

Thanks