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Thread: VFR owners' thread, for VFRPS members and prospective members

  1. #2521
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    27th May 2012 - 09:26
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    Hi Koba. Thanks for the reply. Two things. It smelt very rich in starting and riding it, but more the plug examination which indicated carbon fouling (I am replacing all plugs). I also cleaned out the carbs 6 months ago and used the old gaskets, coated with some liquid gasket which seems to have fouled the carbs. So I have new gaskets to use this time. I also failed to reconnect the choke cable properly (before I get grief it was my first attempt!!). In reading through more posts on greybike, i'm thinking I should set the pilot screw back to 2 turns (as they were), with the new sub air cleaner element (also changing oil and replacing oil and air filter). Any further advice though is welcome! Thanks

  2. #2522
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    27th May 2012 - 09:26
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    In response to your post - since the VFR400 pilot screw was 2 turns out, and the RVF400 is 1 5/8 turns out, I'm assuming this difference, regardless of the actual change between the two, is large enough to have a bearing on the fuel/air ratio. Cheers

  3. #2523
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    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonC View Post
    In response to your post - since the VFR400 pilot screw was 2 turns out, and the RVF400 is 1 5/8 turns out, I'm assuming this difference, regardless of the actual change between the two, is large enough to have a bearing on the fuel/air ratio. Cheers
    Try it, find out.

    Have a tweak and a fiddle, no not that kind.
    Heinz Varieties

  4. #2524
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    27th May 2012 - 09:26
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    Just looking for some advice. Removing the tail section, gas tank, air filter, carbs to dial the pilot screw 150 degrees is a pain in the "A", I just want to be riding - but I'll do it if I have to. Was looking more for advice from somebody more mechanically sounded than myself.

  5. #2525
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    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonC View Post
    Just looking for some advice. Removing the tail section, gas tank, air filter, carbs to dial the pilot screw 150 degrees is a pain in the "A", I just want to be riding - but I'll do it if I have to. Was looking more for advice from somebody more mechanically sounded than myself.
    The internet is not the right place to find that unfortunately, you miss out on so many subtle cues that allow one to 'filter' advice.
    Many, many people will pass on wisdom that they have also learned form the internet; thus perpetuating bullshit.

    The best thing really is just to give it a try, it's worthwhile learning these things if you like to ride bikes.
    The only thing you should bear in mind is don't screw the screws too far out as the spring pressure will eventually not be adequate to hold the screw in place. How far is to Far? no idea but likely further out than you will need.

    Also, maybe worth mentioning, I have a VFR and I know the carberation is all up the shit but it's too much of a pain in the cunt for me to rectify so I haven't bothered past getting it to run 'OK'.
    Heinz Varieties

  6. #2526
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    27th May 2012 - 09:26
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    Your pot smoking advice is obviously far beyond mine. When I figure out my RVF jetting, I'll give you a hand with your VFR.

  7. #2527
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    24th January 2009 - 21:06
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonC View Post
    Any further advice though is welcome! Thanks
    Get the carbs balanced.

  8. #2528
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    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonC View Post
    Your pot smoking advice is obviously far beyond mine. When I figure out my RVF jetting, I'll give you a hand with your VFR.
    So you are going to figure it out, that's what I've been advising; no pot involved.
    Heinz Varieties

  9. #2529
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    It's worth turning them to see what happens (what happens to the revs, and why). Also worth noting that the Haynes spec is a baseline for you to work from, not a 'correct' setting.

  10. #2530
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    9th January 2005 - 22:12
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    My NC30 is still not running quite right.

    So I did the trackday yesterday (props to Motorcycling Canterbury). Bike ran like a sack of shit in the first session. Came in, removed the airbox snorkel and it ran better. Way better.

    it still has an odd tendency to "load up" and sometimes it will only rev to 12k and then very slowly. In later sessions I made sure it had lots of fuel in it (10l or so) the theory being that fuel flow is interrupted a bit if it spends a lot of time leaned over.

    I pulled the two rear plugs and they look absolutely fine.

    It runs better earlier in the session than later when it is hotter too.

    the worst thing is that rolling on the throttle out of a corner it sometimes spits and farts and loads up, and sometimes it runs like a champ right up to 16k.

    At this stage I am going to focus on clearing the airway: I have a spare airbox lid I can perform surgery on and I might put a bit of vacuum cleaner hose from the front of the fairing up to where the airbox sucks in.

    and/or put it on a dyno, see whats what.

    any suggestions?

    jets are 115 and 118 from memory.
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  11. #2531
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    30th July 2009 - 13:15
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    My NC30 is still not running quite right.

    So I did the trackday yesterday (props to Motorcycling Canterbury). Bike ran like a sack of shit in the first session. Came in, removed the airbox snorkel and it ran better. Way better.

    it still has an odd tendency to "load up" and sometimes it will only rev to 12k and then very slowly. In later sessions I made sure it had lots of fuel in it (10l or so) the theory being that fuel flow is interrupted a bit if it spends a lot of time leaned over.

    I pulled the two rear plugs and they look absolutely fine.

    It runs better earlier in the session than later when it is hotter too.

    the worst thing is that rolling on the throttle out of a corner it sometimes spits and farts and loads up, and sometimes it runs like a champ right up to 16k.

    At this stage I am going to focus on clearing the airway: I have a spare airbox lid I can perform surgery on and I might put a bit of vacuum cleaner hose from the front of the fairing up to where the airbox sucks in.

    and/or put it on a dyno, see whats what.

    any suggestions?

    jets are 115 and 118 from memory.
    What is the spec of the rest of the carbs? Stock needles? Check the slides, needles etc. See If there are any extra holes drilled, washers under needles etc. Also, can you verify they are Keihin mains?
    #24 1989 Honda NC30

  12. #2532
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    7th February 2009 - 17:47
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    93 kwacker zxr750
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    palmerston north
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  13. #2533
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    7th February 2009 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    My NC30 is still not running quite right.

    So I did the trackday yesterday (props to Motorcycling Canterbury). Bike ran like a sack of shit in the first session. Came in, removed the airbox snorkel and it ran better. Way better.

    it still has an odd tendency to "load up" and sometimes it will only rev to 12k and then very slowly. In later sessions I made sure it had lots of fuel in it (10l or so) the theory being that fuel flow is interrupted a bit if it spends a lot of time leaned over.

    I pulled the two rear plugs and they look absolutely fine.

    It runs better earlier in the session than later when it is hotter too.

    the worst thing is that rolling on the throttle out of a corner it sometimes spits and farts and loads up, and sometimes it runs like a champ right up to 16k.

    At this stage I am going to focus on clearing the airway: I have a spare airbox lid I can perform surgery on and I might put a bit of vacuum cleaner hose from the front of the fairing up to where the airbox sucks in.

    and/or put it on a dyno, see whats what.

    any suggestions?

    jets are 115 and 118 from memory.
    l know of my brothers bike was fine untill the motor got hot after 2 laps and then started missing and farting . lt was just 1 spark plug breaking down in the end

  14. #2534
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    7th February 2009 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukemillar View Post
    What is the spec of the rest of the carbs? Stock needles? Check the slides, needles etc. See If there are any extra holes drilled, washers under needles etc. Also, can you verify they are Keihin mains?
    ps got your job done . may race buckets at Kaitoke this weekend you could get them then if l go. or bring your bucket (-:

  15. #2535
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    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    My NC30 is still not running quite right.

    So I did the trackday yesterday (props to Motorcycling Canterbury). Bike ran like a sack of shit in the first session. Came in, removed the airbox snorkel and it ran better. Way better.

    it still has an odd tendency to "load up" and sometimes it will only rev to 12k and then very slowly. In later sessions I made sure it had lots of fuel in it (10l or so) the theory being that fuel flow is interrupted a bit if it spends a lot of time leaned over.

    I pulled the two rear plugs and they look absolutely fine.

    It runs better earlier in the session than later when it is hotter too.

    the worst thing is that rolling on the throttle out of a corner it sometimes spits and farts and loads up, and sometimes it runs like a champ right up to 16k.

    At this stage I am going to focus on clearing the airway: I have a spare airbox lid I can perform surgery on and I might put a bit of vacuum cleaner hose from the front of the fairing up to where the airbox sucks in.

    and/or put it on a dyno, see whats what.

    any suggestions?

    jets are 115 and 118 from memory.
    Funky floats?
    Bung sparky bits?
    Heinz Varieties

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