Test ride report. RVF vs VFR

[more_fasterer]

Interesting write-up Morcs, makes me want an RVF less

Cause I'm interested in Morcs bike but 60,000k's is a bit high, it'd be more comforting knowing I could rebore it. There's also the option of finding another engine. Not that any of this should concern that bike untill around 120k right?

That would be a fair comment, except for 60,000km being a bit high. Mine's done 66,000km and the valve clearances and compression were still well within spec (last time the clearances were checked was at 52,000 and they weren't adjusted then, either).
Like most jap engines, treat it to regular oil changes using quality oil and it'll be sweet. The parts that wear out are the chassis components - shocks, forks, bearings, bushes etc.

[skidMark]

my nc21 has 30,000 nya nya!

[moT]

i will hapily race test any vfr400 this sunday at taupo if anyone is interested just pm me i would be happy to give them my verdict

[HenryDorsetCase]

I had the first ride of my NC30 on Saturday. Its a racebike so I was at a trackday in Timaru.

My bike was sold to me by KB-er Postie, and was owned by another KBer prior to that.

Its got a great loudener on it, and good tyres. I am still setting it up to suit me, and I am anything but fast, but it handles well. I like those tyres (Dunlop GPR70 I think... saved my ass from a quite lurid front wheel slide at one point... it was all about the tyres and nothing about talent...)

My clutch is REALLY high effort: is that normal? I am going to start with a new clutch cable, but crikey!

seems to be quite quick (but it has no speedo so I have no idea).

It desperately needs more ground clearance... or at least to lift the footpegs and other hard parts. My toe sliders are looking very sad.

(so are my knee sliders though!!!! )

yup, Im pretty happy so far.

and another track day next week. hopefully will be getting into the groove a bit more.

I am interested to hear what people have done to them, where they got bits from, how much they cost, etc): I like to spend money on tyres, suspension, brakes then engines....

[Morcs]

I am interested to hear what people have done to them, where they got bits from, how much they cost, etc): I like to spend money on tyres, suspension, brakes then engines....

Mine is stock standard, tried hacking the baffle out of the exhaust (and failed) but still sounds pretty good, everything else is standard, running gpr100's front and rear, and it rides perfectly on the track.

I used to find the lack of ground clearance an issue, but have adjusted my foot/knee position on the pegs when cornering, but a pair of race rearsets would helps heaps, but with dunlop gpr70/100's you dont really need them as you are pretty much on the edge of the tyre when pegs touch tarmac.

[limbimtimwim]

Took it down the road coughing and spluttering, realised they had the fuel tap off, and then was suprised that there was no engine braking and it was idling at 3k... well the choke was on

Mine does that once it has got some heat in it.

Performance. Got on the motorway and opened her up a bit, there is quite a delay in the throttle response - due to it having 30mm flatside carbs rather than the nc30's 32mm cvs - so they work of vacuum and you have to wait for them to work...

If it isn't feeling correct by 7000rpm, something is wrong. Under 7000rpm, it's a pile of shit. Maybe 6500 it's all good if the stars are in alignment. Check the airfilter and clean the carbs. Also the Wikipedia article is wrong, the carbs are CV carbs, they just happen to have a flat side on the pistons, which is really weird but there you go. Smaller carbs should respond better than bigger ones. The airflow into the head on an NC35 is much straighter than that of an NC30.

It didnt seem to have the same punch in the midrange either. Took it round the harbour, sits on the motorway nicely, and is as joyous to ride as an nc30. Heading back down the motorway to cyclespot decided to really give it some herbs coming off the on ramp, flicking through the gears at about 13k it got up to 180 before slowly going off the clock, kind off disappointing as my nc30 seems to get to 200+ in under 10 seconds.

While I don't doubt and NC30 is faster than an NC35, I think the NC35 speedo isn't a liar like most. I'm pretty sure when it says 110, it means you are doing 110, not 98km/h. But then you'd think the NC30 speedo would be the same..?

I read on wikipedia than whearas the nc30 will hold a line perfectly, the nc35 can change line mid corner - i decided to put it to the test, and it does it beautifully due to the usd front forks. Brakes felt really nice and solid too, the same as the vfr just they have had 30,000k's less wear on the disks..

Har har.. I wrote the original version of that Wikipedia article. That's my bike in the picture too.

Engine performance the nc30 wins hands down, handling will no-doubt be the rvf once its got some good rubber, and the rvf looks sooo damn good I could eat it...

Try Bridgestone BT-090's. Seriously.

And get the HRC CDI, it makes the top end feel like it should. Just an extra 2% better and suddenly you won't hit the limiter as often.

Enjoy your RVF, you'll love it.

[Morcs]

Mine does that once it has got some heat in it.If it isn't feeling correct by 7000rpm, something is wrong. Under 7000rpm, it's a pile of shit. Maybe 6500 it's all good if the stars are in alignment. Check the airfilter and clean the carbs. Also the Wikipedia article is wrong, the carbs are CV carbs, they just happen to have a flat side on the pistons, which is really weird but there you go. Smaller carbs should respond better than bigger ones. The airflow into the head on an NC35 is much straighter than that of an NC30. While I don't doubt and NC30 is faster than an NC35, I think the NC35 speedo isn't a liar like most. I'm pretty sure when it says 110, it means you are doing 110, not 98km/h. But then you'd think the NC30 speedo would be the same..?Har har.. I wrote the original version of that Wikipedia article. That's my bike in the picture too.Try Bridgestone BT-090's. Seriously.

And get the HRC CDI, it makes the top end feel like it should. Just an extra 2% better and suddenly you won't hit the limiter as often.

Enjoy your RVF, you'll love it.

Just what i was looking for, an rvf owner to comment, thanks heaps

Yeah the throttle sorts it self out pretty quickly, just there is a noticeable lag.

Pick it up tomorrow morning, so will be taking it for a ride tomorrow evening for 'further research;

Is the HRC Cdi really worth it for the money? plus does it cut out lights and stuff?

Dunlop gpr100's are a perfect allround tyre on these bikes methinks. Im going to keep the current bridgestones on over winter and get some good rubber next summer...

[limbimtimwim]

Just what i was looking for, an rvf owner to comment, thanks heaps

They are just queuing up.

Yeah the throttle sorts it self out pretty quickly, just there is a noticeable lag.

Under 7000 or below? I don't think it is easy to sort the fueling below 7000. Just go down a gear or two and pin it to get it past the hump .

Pick it up tomorrow morning, so will be taking it for a ride tomorrow evening for 'further research; : Is the HRC Cdi really worth it for the money? plus does it cut out lights and stuff?

Worth the money.... Hmm. That depends on how stupid with money you are. If you as stupid as me, yes, it is. It doesn't cut the lights and removes the 180km/h speed limiter. An HRC wiring loom would cut the lights.

[moT]

Get a vfr400 they are better preformance wise and the difference between a rvf and a vfr in aspects of handeling is hardly noticeable if there is any difference at all the rvf just looks prettyer i got a vfr and it handles like a dream and how it corners is mostly up to the rider there is a problem with the vfr tho the pegs are too low it needs higher set peggs scrapes too much good rubber is always nice bridgestone bt014s wear quick tho otherwise 010s ive been doing track days on a shinko they are very average tyres