The DR650 thread

**Tigerpig** · 16th June 2012, 23:56

Originally Posted by Dual

Anyone bought a complete Ricor Shock

Yes, me. Ricor shock, eibach springs and intiminators arrived on Friday from Procycles. Fitted them today and short ride shows a marked difference positive. Not had a chance to really drum it yet, but up and down the odd kerb is way better than with stock setup. Not unlike a Kona Stinky going up kerbs. Installation of both was way easier than I was expecting and the shock feels lighter than the stock shock.

**Pikey** · 17th June 2012, 10:09

Spent some time in the shed and made myself a big tool tube! (or fishing rod holder

)
90mm PVC pipe (thanks Sudman!) One push fit, one screw on end cap (Bunnings) Stainless clamp from Steel and Tube and made a couple of plastic clamps from the left over ABS from my screen

**NordieBoy** · 17th June 2012, 11:40

Originally Posted by Pikey

Spent some time in the shed and made myself a big tool tube! (or fishing rod holder

)
90mm PVC pipe (thanks Sudman!) One push fit, one screw on end cap (Bunnings) Stainless clamp from Steel and Tube and made a couple of plastic clamps from the left over ABS from my screen

It may pay to put a bit of tube around the end to stop grit getting in the threads.
Otherwise you may not be able to undo it...

**Pikey** · 17th June 2012, 13:33

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

It may pay to put a bit of tube around the end to stop grit getting in the threads.
Otherwise you may not be able to undo it...

Thanks Fran!
The voice of experience??

Wanted:-Piece of inner tube Kapiti area??

**NordieBoy** · 17th June 2012, 21:17

Originally Posted by Pikey

The voice of experience??

Yep

I even greased the threads and the o-ring.

Nearly ripped it off the mounts trying to undo it.

Raced the beach races with a couple of kilos of tyre irons in it...

**That looks like fun** · 17th June 2012, 21:25

Silicon spray is the toy for those threads

Spray and walk away

. (then assemble once dry

)

**dino3310** · 18th June 2012, 21:02

flippen good price http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-486098937.htm

**Crisis management** · 19th June 2012, 19:38

I'm looking at lacing a DR rear rim onto the bucket race bike, can any of you lot count how many spokes they have and even tell me the rim width? I don't seem to be able to find any DR's around here.
If anyone has a spare rim they don't want (or a DRZ rear?) let me know.

**NordieBoy** · 19th June 2012, 21:17

Originally Posted by Crisis management

I'm looking at lacing a DR rear rim onto the bucket race bike, can any of you lot count how many spokes they have and even tell me the rim width? I don't seem to be able to find any DR's around here.
If anyone has a spare rim they don't want (or a DRZ rear?) let me know.

36 hole, 2.5"

**Crisis management** · 20th June 2012, 08:46

Thanks Fran, now I need to find a donor.....

**NordieBoy** · 20th June 2012, 09:18

36 hole, 2.15", 18" for $99
http://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T...2-15x18--7075-

**Team Buffoon** · 20th June 2012, 09:22

I have an 09 DR650 fitted with a Staintune pipe, Dynojet kit fitted to standard carb, K&N Air Filter, Air box door has been drilled to remove approx half of the material snorkel and top of airbox unmolested. Bike goes really well on an open throttle however when it is warm once it has idled for any length of time it dies as soon as the throttle is opened; it will also die if coasting downhill on a closed throttle when the throttle is opened to accelerate. It will always start up straight away on the first prod of the button but it is damn annoying around town (looks as if I am stalling as I go to pull away each time) and obviously dangerous off road. This problem has got slowly worse the longer I have owned the bike. I should have sorted it ages ago but have been distracted by moving house and having an affair with a R80G/S.
I have spoken to the person who did the mods and the intention was to get the max amount of flow and power available. I am pretty sure that the problem is a minor jetting issue but rather than just fixing the existing issue I want to set it up in the best way I can. I do not like the way the airbox door has been opened up rather than the top, K&N Filters from what I have read do not really do the business in our dusty summer conditions (or if regularly cleaned are they OK?).
So with apologies as I am aware there has been much discussion previously about airbox openings.
What filter is recommended if I am to replace the K&N?
I intend to replace the door to the airbox or seal off the holes and open up the top. How much of the top to cut away? (Nordie you always seem to be of the chop it all out school and others are more cautious!)
Is there anyone in Auckland who you would recommend to fine tune the carb set up for me?
The bike is used for general purpose road use as well as for adventure rides.
Nordie apologies to you personally as we discussed this offline some time ago but I have misplaced your reply.

**NordieBoy** · 20th June 2012, 09:57

Originally Posted by Team Buffoon

I have an 09 DR650 fitted with a Staintune pipe, Dynojet kit fitted to standard carb, K&N Air Filter, Air box door has been drilled to remove approx half of the material snorkel and top of airbox unmolested. Bike goes really well on an open throttle however when it is warm once it has idled for any length of time it dies as soon as the throttle is opened; it will also die if coasting downhill on a closed throttle when the throttle is opened to accelerate. It will always start up straight away on the first prod of the button but it is damn annoying around town (looks as if I am stalling as I go to pull away each time) and obviously dangerous off road. This problem has got slowly worse the longer I have owned the bike. I should have sorted it ages ago but have been distracted by moving house and having an affair with a R80G/S.
I have spoken to the person who did the mods and the intention was to get the max amount of flow and power available. I am pretty sure that the problem is a minor jetting issue but rather than just fixing the existing issue I want to set it up in the best way I can. I do not like the way the airbox door has been opened up rather than the top, K&N Filters from what I have read do not really do the business in our dusty summer conditions (or if regularly cleaned are they OK?).
So with apologies as I am aware there has been much discussion previously about airbox openings.
What filter is recommended if I am to replace the K&N?
I intend to replace the door to the airbox or seal off the holes and open up the top. How much of the top to cut away? (Nordie you always seem to be of the chop it all out school and others are more cautious!)
Is there anyone in Auckland who you would recommend to fine tune the carb set up for me?
The bike is used for general purpose road use as well as for adventure rides.
Nordie apologies to you personally as we discussed this offline some time ago but I have misplaced your reply.

I had this sort of issue a while ago. After a nice higher speed run, throttle off and the slide would stick closed. A bit of a bugger trying to get away from intersections...
Pulled the carb apart, cleaned it and never had the problem again.

Bung a pre-filter (filterskin) on in dusty conditions.
The K&N does away with the filter cage which all the foam filters need so you may not be able to easily change to one.

Replace/close off the airbox door and open the top. There'll be less induction noise as well, as the seat will block some of it.

I've attached the latest Procycle template for cutting the airbox.