The DR650 thread

[NordieBoy]

Unfortunately there's not really anything I can do about that without new jets and needle.
The US model uses a different needle with only one clip position, so I can't alter that, and I don't have any spare jets.
If fuel has gotten into my crankcase though, I'm guessing I don't want to run the engine until I've given it an oil change?.. I'll have to order an inline fuel filter and an oil filter tomorrow, and pick up some oil.

raise the needle with a small washer.

Do a sniff test on the oil. You'll soon find if it's got petrol in it.

[Buyasta]

So yesterday I cleaned the carb and put it back on the bike. The battery was quite flat so I'm not sure if I've sorted it or not, but it did sound a bit more promising while the battery still had enough charge to turn it over.
My friend is coming over today and bringing back my battery charger which he'd been borrowing, so I should know tomorrow.

raise the needle with a small washer.

Do a sniff test on the oil. You'll soon find if it's got petrol in it.

I took off the oil filler cap and gave it a sniff, it definitely smelled pretty strongly of petrol.
So I'll change the oil before riding it again, but how big an issue is it, having fuel in the engine oil?.. Should I wait till I've changed the oil before trying to start it again?.. If it's OK to start it, can I also let it idle for a couple of minutes to warm the oil up a bit to make changing it easier?
I've never actually done an oil change before, but I'm sure I can figure it out. I was wondering though, where do you guys go to buy your oil?.. Just the local bike shop, or Super Cheap, or where?.. Don't worry, I'm not going to ask what type to put in it, I've read a coupla oil threads.

As far as the washer on the needle, that'll only help if it's running too lean and I want to richen it a bit though, right?.. I think if it's off in either direction, it's probably running too lean.
Either way, it doesn't matter too much, I've just ordered the TM-40 carb kit, and the person who's bringing it over from the states will arrived in the first few days of January, so while I'll keep playing around with the stock carb as a learning experience and for fun for the rest of the month, it doesn't really matter if I never get it running 100% right.

[NordieBoy]

Change the oil first, especially if it's above the sight glass...

[Bass]

Just to change the subject for a moment - the dreaded DR 3rd gear whine of imminent death, is it continuous or only when 3rd gear is engaged?

(Obviously I have a reason for asking)

[NordieBoy]

Just to change the subject for a moment - the dreaded DR 3rd gear whine of imminent death, is it continuous or only when 3rd gear is engaged?

(Obviously I have a reason for asking)

Only under load, in 3rd.

Mine has been whining for 80,000km now...

[Night Falcon]

Only under load, in 3rd.

Mine has been whining for 80,000km now...

According to some folk on ADVrider, you can console yourself if your 3rd gear explodes with the knowledge that most DR's won't experience this phanominom...panominominon....phanomininminom...er um, problem

[Bass]

Only under load, in 3rd.

Mine has been whining for 80,000km now...

Right, it's not that then thanks - the search continues.

[Bass]

phanominom...panominominon....phanomininminom...

Quick, give it some choke and it might start!

[badlieutenant]

Hopefully someone here will be able to give me a little info, thanks in advance if you can.

OK, so I did the rm250 (88) forks swap. Said forks have been rebuilt and Im rather looking forward to forks with compression/rebound adjustment. However, I need to know a couple of things to get the setup sorted. On installation of front wheel which is not stock but a 17inch off of a rgv (i think)I noticed a couple of things.

The front wheel was off center and the forks appear to have the slightest outwards flare to them. It was very hard to tell using calipers but still....
But either way the wheel is 10mm off center. Easy fix would be to make new collars and shift wheel over 10mm but the rotor rivets will hit the fork leg before then.

The other ars ache is the caliper adapter I have made already which is awesome, except the only disc I can find that is close in dimension with less of an offset (10mm not 17.5mm) ) is 298mm in diameter. The caliper is made to accommodate a stock 290mm rotor. The smaller offset will allow the wheel to shift over the crucial mm.
Anyhoo, my question is what were the rm250 (88) stock axle length (inside fork to inside, or outside would do as well) and Is it ok to lathe 8mm off my disc ? or does someone know off another place to get disc's from (the only one I have found so far is this one at metalgear
(oh just in case someone suggests a flat rotor I did look into it but Im pretty sure the caliper will hit the spokes :/ maybe flat disc with packer ?

In advance, Cheers

[NordieBoy]

MAy have been easier to stick the DR donk in the RM frame

[badlieutenant]

yer, Im not sure it would be easier. Hangon! is this the king of farkle trying to tell me to not farkle with my DR? I think your been ironic
oh well, Ill look for a rotor somewhere between 290 and 320 with an offset of 10mm and make a new caliper.

[NordieBoy]

yer, Im not sure it would be easier. Hangon! is this the king of farkle trying to tell me to not farkle with my DR? I think your been ironic
oh well, Ill look for a rotor somewhere between 290 and 320 with an offset of 10mm and make a new caliper.

I'd make a new rotor from a street sign, but that's just me.

[pete-blen]

I'd make a new rotor from a street sign, but that's just me.

yer need armco..wave rotors are in now...

[badlieutenant]

I'd make a new rotor from a street sign, but that's just me.

The stick i was jamming between the forks and the tyre as a brake has worn thru. Besides everyone knows street signs are only good for bash plates and gaskets

[Aslan]

hi - I should know the answer having changed the oil on my DR a # of times - what size socket is the correct size to fit the stock drain plug please?

The 17mm I'm using seems too big

thanks in advance