The DR650 thread

[pete-blen]

Attachment 247141Attachment 247142Attachment 247143
My new DR650 lowrider with adjustable suspension links and adjustable billet alloy side stand.

Nice easy adjustable lowering link set...
rod ends & bit of hex bar..

[DR650gary]

That is a good piece of kit.

Number 8 wire technology is alive and well in NZ

[pete376403]

Wonder how long those rod ends would live with road grit and worse being thrown at them?

[pete-blen]

Wonder how long those rod ends would live with road grit and worse being thrown at them?

for a dam long time..
there is very little movement......
you could put a grease nipple in the centre of the hex
as theres a hole up the threaded section into the ball...
The only issue I can see with the set up as it
is on the DR posted...the houseings are not held captive
a good whack on something..its possable for the houseing
to pop off the ball... they need washers on the out side
with a OD bigger than the houseings ID

[MXNUT]

did f1 engineering do this?

Soupys Performance Parts USA, $220 US for stand and links.

That is a good piece of kit.

Number 8 wire technology is alive and well in NZ

Not quite, they came from the States

Wonder how long those rod ends would live with road grit and worse being thrown at them?

While they look like rod ends they are infact just recessed ends that tighten up on the linkage bearing collar like standard, so the moving bearing surface is inside the linkage behind the seals.

While i did consider making links myself using rod ends the advantage of this set up is that one end of the linkage is L/H thread, so to adjust the ride height all you need to do is loosen off the lock nuts and turn the large centre nut.

This was a + factor for me as i may want to use the bike from time to time, thats why i also went with the adjustable stand. 15 minutes and the bike is reset to any ride height you want.

[tri boy]

This was a + factor for me as i may want to use the bike from time to time,

I think kanny wants to have a blast also.
Bribe you with some cookies, and your much better half with a bottle of plonk.

[pete-blen]

Soupys Performance Parts USA, $220 US for stand and links.


Not quite, they came from the States


While they look like rod ends they are infact just recessed ends that tighten up on the linkage bearing collar like standard, so the moving bearing surface is inside the linkage behind the seals.

While i did consider making links myself using rod ends the advantage of this set up is that one end of the linkage is L/H thread, so to adjust the ride height all you need to do is loosen off the lock nuts and turn the large centre nut.

Yer can get L/H rod ends...
http://www.theracingdepot.co.nz/#rodend

[gav24]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-407889716.htm

Maybe useful to someone, I think these fit late model DR650's - no cush drive set up but 18 inch rim would be good for a spare knobby tire set up though...
or a useful hub for a motard?

bit expensive for what it is I thought...?

[MXNUT]

Yer can get L/H rod ends...
http://www.theracingdepot.co.nz/#rodend

Yeah but can you get the centre nut with L/H thread in 1 end and R/H thread in the other.

[pete376403]

An alternative to lefthand / righthand thread centre nut is to use what I saw on (of all things an IBM golfball typewriter) - an adjusting link used a coarse thread at one end and a fine thread at the other (both right hand thread). The adjustment was the difference between the two threads.
Now, can you get coarse and fine thread rod ends (or whatever they are)?

[pete-blen]

An alternative to lefthand / righthand thread centre nut is to use what I saw on (of all things an IBM golfball typewriter) - an adjusting link used a coarse thread at one end and a fine thread at the other (both right hand thread). The adjustment was the difference between the two threads.
Now, can you get coarse and fine thread rod ends (or whatever they are)?

Well yer maybe.. or
Metric & UNF

[The Pastor]

what km/l do you guys get?

I got 21km/l on the trip home. (open road)

since then I've removed the snorkel and put a 14tooth sprocket on.

now I get 17km/l

is it the snorkel or the sprocket that did that?

[Eddieb]

what km/l do you guys get?

I got 21km/l on the trip home. (open road)

since then I've removed the snorkel and put a 14tooth sprocket on.

now I get 17km/l

is it the snorkel or the sprocket that did that?

I get 21-22km/l open road with stock gearing and snorkel removed.

My bet is the sprocket, and you canning it more enjoying the quicker response it gives.

The snorkel will make it run leaner, the sprocket means you will be doing ~300rpm higher revs for any given speed, so your fuel consumption will be slightly higher at any given speed. Though I wouldn't have expected that sort of difference.

[The Pastor]

I get 21-22km/l open road with stock gearing and snorkel removed.

My bet is the sprocket, and you canning it more enjoying the quicker response it gives.

The snorkel will make it run leaner, the sprocket means you will be doing ~300rpm higher revs for any given speed, so your fuel consumption will be slightly higher at any given speed. Though I wouldn't have expected that sort of difference.

that's what I was thinking. I will put it back on (as its so easy to do) and see if any difference.

[NordieBoy]

what km/l do you guys get?

I got 21km/l on the trip home. (open road)

since then I've removed the snorkel and put a 14tooth sprocket on.

now I get 17km/l

is it the snorkel or the sprocket that did that?

I got bugger all difference even when I did everything to the BST.

Shortened slide spring, 22nd hole in slide, opened airbox, twinair filter, header weld ground, GSXR pipe, Dynojet kit = 18-19km/L no matter what sprocket I used.

But I ride like a nana.

If you've removed the snorkel, then you should really shim the needle up a mm or so.