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Thread: Dying on full throttle

  1. #16
    Join Date
    4th June 2007 - 11:03
    Bike
    pocket bike
    Location
    invercargill
    Posts
    7
    it is a standard jet and a brand new air filter, so what adjusts the mixture at full throttle??

  2. #17
    Join Date
    5th April 2004 - 20:04
    Bike
    Exxon Valdez
    Location
    wellington
    Posts
    13,381
    Quote Originally Posted by rockr View Post
    it is a standard jet and a brand new air filter, so what adjusts the mixture at full throttle??
    Nothing, the volume and velocity of air rushing over the top of the jet, sucks fuel up and into the combustion chamber.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    17th June 2007 - 06:50
    Bike
    Heavily modified L7 pocketbike
    Location
    Palmdale, California
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by rockr View Post
    it is a standard jet and a brand new air filter, so what adjusts the mixture at full throttle??
    The only 'part' that will adjust the mixture at WOT is the actual jet itself.

    3/4 to full throttle is where this part comes into play...

    As the stock jet is a size .64 in most stock carbs, I would suggest trying this one out to begin with.

    A jet 'kit' is good to have...

    Jet kits are readily available for these bikes and cheap as well if you look around first. If that is not possible at this time, make sure your airfilter is flowing as good as possible as a poorly flowing filter is similar to having the choke on a slight bit and will cause a 'rich' condition at all rpms...


    The needle is of most concern between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle...

    The actual slide itself controls your air/fuel mixture from between 1/8 to 1/2 throttle (mostly between 1/8 and 1/4).

    You CAN control the air/fuel mix (at idle and down low) with the slide via. the size of the 'cutaway'...

    A larger 'cutaway' will give you a leaner mix while a smaller one will make things richer. You DO NOT want to grind your slide so much that you don't have at least the front half of the slide remaining... When it is closed, You should NOT be able to see through it. You want to try to maintain the same bevel as before and you want to go 'slowly' and check it often. Grind 1mm and give it a check...


    You do NOT need to grind your slide here friend...

    I only posted that for other members who may wish to 'tweak' this...



    IamCornholio

  4. #19
    Join Date
    27th March 2007 - 11:29
    Bike
    1997 Yamaha TRX850
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    101

    Could be many things

    Cheap engines tend to give problems, it really is luck of the draw.

    1# Leaky crank case seals, bike dies when engine reaches running temperature and the compression starts escaping..remedy, try tighten up your engine bolts..worse case ... buy a better engine.

    2# Fuel .... sparkplug fouled, fuel filter is rubbish, fuel pipe is bent, blockage in your tanks fuel hole. (poke a nail down it or drill bit and open it up a little bit more...... carburetor is poor quality (buy an OEM carburetor)..

    3# Air filter standard horrible black box (bad design... remove and drill about 6 small holes in the back, this will open it up and allow better air supply at full throttle)

    4# Faulty CDI/Coil pack ... probably not this but symptoms when it starts to die will include problems like this.

    5# Fault engine kill switch ... common problem, check the connections and spray some brake cleaner into the switch, easy to upgrade to the kill switch type 2 model, is bigger and a proper switch.
    www.newmanz.co.nz/shop

    Its better to burn out
    Than to fade away

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