DR650 owners register here.

[NordieBoy]

Been thinking about this idea and it is one that I think may be worth trying. By having a "winglet" on the top you can keep the screen higher i.e. less load on the shoulder but get the turbulent wind off the top of the screen directed down or at least horizontally of the top.

Thassa one(ish).

One thing to consider is how far forward of the screen the winglet extends. I would suggest that it needs to extend forward far enough to ensure that it is in horizonal clean air flow otherwise you will still get air pushed up over the top by the screen. If the screen is more vertical the less the winglet will have to extend forward to the screen. Also good luck figuring out what angle to have the winglet at. Slightly sloped down to the rear would be my starting point.

I'm thinking lower/shorter mostly vertical screen like say... the one on my bike that puts the turbulance at your shoulders.
The winglet would be at an angle of 20 degrees or so to clean up the turbulant air and direct it below the helmet level. Would only have to be 50mm or so deep and probably 30mm above the screen with 20mm forward and 30mm behind.
I've tested this design to 180kph in an imaginary wind tunnel.

Damn - just have no screen so your helmet is in clear air and develop strong arm and neck muscles. Dont have to worry about smacking yourself on a screen when off road that way. I'm hoping my neck muscles have recovered enough to do this!

No screen and you cop it in the chest.
Affects your shoulders, neck and back more than your arms (7 of the last 10 years have been screenless and riding sitting upright every day).
Just ask my chiropractor what it does over time
It is good for building up your grip though.

[Mole_C]

Rightio, im gonna start making some mods on my DR650, gonna start with airbox then exhaust then spockets then carbs and finally comfort

So gotta start with removing the snorkel and drilling some more holes in the airbox. Was thinking 4 holes in the top about 2-3cm diam with a slightly raised lip and filter over them to keep out the rain and dust. Sound good?

Also what fiilters are good and cheap? The only ones i know about are K&N so any more ideas would be good.

Cheers

[Crisis management]

You need to do the carb, exhaust and airbox together as they have a combined effect on jetting and peformance. Look at Kien tech engineering website for details of the airbox mod and drilling the carb slide, dynojet kits are available in NZ at AMPS in auckland ($103) and exhaust? depends on your budget!
Depending on what you want to use it for, there may be other more important things to look at:
If your riding on gravel or any off road, get a bash plate first! The cases are very fragile and it is not uncommon to stick a rock thru them, also they damage easily on both sides of the cases.
Gearing: I'd look at a 14 tooth front sprocket only if you need to change anything. I run almost stock gearing and don't find it a problem but there are probably a dozen different opinions on that!
Switching: Isolate the clutch and stand switches so they cant get broken and prevent you starting the bike.
Chain lub: Fit a Scott oiler to the chain, saves a lot of maintenance.
Filters. I run stock, it's a washable foam, whats to change? K&N don't seem to be well regarded due to their lack of filtration.

Have a read thru Nordie boys thread here, most things you could want to know about have answers in it.

[Mole_C]

Read it, thats where i got most of the ideas but need a few more specifics on how to do it. Bookmarked that Kientech site so know how to do the airbox and drill carbs now Found more info on Thumpertalk and advrider. One ineresting bit was this

I've read all the posts about the Dynojet & K&N carb kits, but have also had great luck using conventional methods. I just installed a 160 main jet, shimmed the needle with a .040 thick washer, drilled the second hole in the slide, and turned the fuel screw out 2.5 turns. Also removed the airbox cover. The bike runs awsome. No flat spots, starts in a micro second, and totally rips. All for the price of a jet. I'll check the plug color after a longer ride. Oh yah, the bike is much louder now, but a nice kind of loud. Anyone else tried this mod? If so please reply.

See any reason why this would be bad? Id rather spend a few bucks than 100 if its gonna be pretty much the same as a dynojet kit. And where can i buy just a 160 main?

[Crisis management]

Doing that is fine, no different to the Dynojet way.....
Dynojet kit includes a new needle (different shape?) and four different jet sizes allowing for different set ups. Be aware the jet sizes are not neccesarily consistant, OEM jet sizing is different to Dynojet sizing so you may have to try a few jets. Price a jet from Suzuki and see how affordable it is.
Don't take the side cover off the airbox unless you are sure you won't get water into it, do the top of airbox mod preferably.
Let us know how it goes, I'm about to do the same with the dynojet version so we can compare notes.

[NordieBoy]

Read it, thats where i got most of the ideas but need a few more specifics on how to do it. Bookmarked that Kientech site so know how to do the airbox and drill carbs now Found more info on Thumpertalk and advrider. One ineresting bit was this

See any reason why this would be bad? Id rather spend a few bucks than 100 if its gonna be pretty much the same as a dynojet kit. And where can i buy just a 160 main?

Opening the airbox side is very noisy, opening the top isn't.
A 160 DJ main is the same as a 150 Mikuni main.
A 160 Mikuni would have a hole the size of your fist and flow a bit too much.

The KTM needle is good but works better on a stock airbox.
Best jetting for stockish is an open airbox top and the stock needle shimmed 2mm or so.
You only need a bigger jet if you are going to an aftermarket pipe.
Grind the header weld as well (no jetting change needed).
Oh and some CR9EK plugs for that extra "blingness".

THIS is the Thumpertalk thread you need to read for jetting

[timg]

I'm thinking adjustable winglet myself.
Something like this...
A combination of Transalpers screen with a small moveable winglet.

Problem is making it not look ugly.

Hi Nordie, I think you are on the right track. Check out this link https://www.twistedthrottle.com/trad...view/2710/344/

I got a MRA Vario screen for my Transalp The screen is basically the same as the factory screen but with the spoiler mounted on it. At the time they did not do the spoiler and mounts seperately (I asked) but now they are available as a seperate unit.

It seems to work very well. I don't have a problem with buffeting when riding alone, but 2 up creates a nasty head wobble if the pillion looks around or moves their helmet. The vario screen/spoiler seems to solve that. I made a number of 'trial' screens out of coroflite (real estate signs) trying to find what would work. The standard screen with s spoiler was the best for my situation/needs.

Happy to send you the measurements and photos of the spoiler thingy if you'd like to try making a copy.

Cheers,
Tim

[NordieBoy]

Looks like they split the wind off and try and throw it over your head without the associated turbulance of a 1 piece screen.
I want a short screen and no turbulance at head level.

[Mole_C]

Opening the airbox side is very noisy, opening the top isn't.
A 160 DJ main is the same as a 150 Mikuni main.
A 160 Mikuni would have a hole the size of your fist and flow a bit too much.

The KTM needle is good but works better on a stock airbox.
Best jetting for stockish is an open airbox top and the stock needle shimmed 2mm or so.
You only need a bigger jet if you are going to an aftermarket pipe.
Grind the header weld as well (no jetting change needed).
Oh and some CR9EK plugs for that extra "blingness".

THIS is the Thumpertalk thread you need to read for jetting

Yea was gonna do the air box lid and take the snorkel out. You think it'll be much better with a K&N filter?

Gonna grind down exhaust as soon as i figure out how to get it out. All one big windy piece.

So all i need to do on the carbs for that is drill 2nd hole and get a 2mm spacer for needle? Jets wont do anything? Also how much did you have to adjust the screws? Will be my first time playing with carbs so need as much info as i can get b4 i destroy them

Gonna do these all the move down my list and add a few things from CM's list

[cooneyr]

...Gonna grind down exhaust as soon as i figure out how to get it out. All one big windy piece.

Dont know much about carbs but helped Nordie remove the header pipe. There is a slip joint in the pipe near the frame directly above the RHS foot peg. Loosen the slip joint (1 bolt) and then undo the two bolds holding the header to the head then wiggle to remove.

Cheers
R

[limbimtimwim]

So all i need to do on the carbs for that is drill 2nd hole and get a 2mm spacer for needle? Jets wont do anything? Also how much did you have to adjust the screws? Will be my first time playing with carbs so need as much info as i can get b4 i destroy them

The factory pro kit reckons it doesn't need drilling: http://factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods65.html .

[NordieBoy]

Seat of the pants says drill it
You can feel the extra snap off the bottom end.
For best value for money, do the mods individually a couple of days apart.
Then you'll get to see/feel the difference each makes.

After my first dyno session we ended up with just the needle shimmed after trying different jets.

The order I'd do them if doing it again for the stock pipe would be...
Remove the snorkle/Shim the needle - need to be done together.
Drill carb slide.
Shorten carb spring 3.5 turns (102mm overall length).
Grind header weld out flush - no ridges.
Dynojet kit - needle 4th from top, 150 mainjet (I think a fractionally bigger main would be better but the 155 DJ is too big - maybe a Mikuni 142 would be ideal).

The DynoJet needle makes a big difference. If you can get one on it's own then the stock Mikuni jet is virtually the same as the DJ 150.

Wind the screw in 'till it runs crap and then back it out to just (1/4 turn) past max revs.
That will leave it fractionally rich at idle but not enough to bog and should reduce popping on decel.

I'm still using the stock filter but will probably go with an aftermarket foam one instead of a K&N.

The thing is that with the NZ$ the way it is then now is the best time to do the springs
$80us for the fronts and $130us for the rear + postage from KienTech.
$300+ postage NZ total.

I'd better get off to work now...

[cooneyr]

The factory pro kit reckons it doesn't need drilling: http://factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods65.html .

From what I've read you don't need to drill with any kit. All it does is improve the throttle response given it is a CV carb i.e. trying to get closer to the response of a pumper carb. It allows the slide to open faster thereby more fuel faster. Drilling wont affect peak power though.

Cheers R

[Mole_C]

Yay, airbox is cut, header is ground. Now where is that fuel air mixture screw?

Oh took it for a quick ride down the road. Very lean i think, was pulsing. Better get myself a DJ kit when i get back.
Also smoked for a bit but i think that was just burning off the water and crc. Seemd to stop pretty quickly

[GaZBur]

Hi Guys - been reading some good tips here in this thread. Thanks to you for the free tips and advise!!! Will try sort out what I am going to do - and what I wont do and let you know if you are interested.
Will try attach some pics of my DR650 at Silverstream Cart track, Otago. Its a K5 -stock standard so far, currently #71 in pics but will be renumbered to 78 now I have full license and official number.