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**NordieBoy** · 14th July 2007, 10:55

Originally Posted by Mole_C

Will a hairdryer really make it hot enough to turn my bike into a fiery beast? Damn

Not really.

I'd take it in to a bike shop and get them to loosen it up.
Minimal cost and you know it's the right one they've done.
They'll probably loosen and rotate the carb so they can see into the idle needle hole and go from there.
A couple of minutes should do it.

From then on it should be sweet.

**moko** · 15th July 2007, 14:18

Finally got my 95 model DR sorted(the pre SE model),had a new wiring loom and all the other bits the pillock I bought it from on Ebay stuffed up sorted out.I got a used Lazer Produro can for it,great piece of kit,slid on,fitted perfectly and runs really well with no re-jetting,it's done a 100 mile (200-ish kms) run no hassle at all,no over-heating,no starting problems,no nasty back-firing,nada.Made me laugh when a workmate told me about his buddy fitting a new set of pipes to his XTX660,then having to pay extra to get it dynoed.so far the guy's paid nearly £400(over $1000) and it runs like a pig at low-revs and is only really happy when it's having the nuts revved off it,my old DR,£70 worth of pipe,5 minutes to fit and she runs like a dream,so much for progress.

**marks** · 15th July 2007, 18:17

Originally Posted by moko

Made me laugh when a workmate told me about his buddy fitting a new set of pipes to his XTX660,then having to pay extra to get it dynoed.so far the guy's paid nearly £400(over $1000) and it runs like a pig at low-revs and is only really happy when it's having the nuts revved off it.

Actually 60 minutes with a soldering iron and a couple of resistors is all thats needed to sort the low revs running on a 660 - don't need to dyno it. You shouldn't blame the bike if your mates buddy got bad advice. With those simple mods done I imagine it would put out significantly more power/torque than a dr 650

**Mole_C** · 16th July 2007, 16:21

Yay, took carb into spectrum today and the got it out for me for free

so go see them for all your needs

Seems to run a lot better now, got screw about 1.5-2 turns out with 2mm washers and didnt seem to pulse going up and down my street. Didn't like putting around the u turn so might have to turn idle up or just not be lazy. Turning the idle screw seems to do didly squat anyway thou.

Still doesn't pull power wheelies

Any advice on making it?

**Mole_C** · 18th July 2007, 23:05

Yay, put 3mm washers under it and seems to run good everywhere except 2nd gear and down low in 1st. Gets about 1cm off the ground on power in first and up more with a little clutch

Still a bit to go i think. Might get a dynajet kit. I like tinkering away. Especially when i have no real idea wht im doing

**Transalper** · 19th July 2007, 07:00

Originally Posted by Mole_C

.. Gets about 1cm off the ground on power in first and up more with a little clutch

Still a bit to go i think. ...

What sprockets you got on?

**NordieBoy** · 19th July 2007, 08:26

Yeah, make sure there's a 14t on the front.

**Mole_C** · 19th July 2007, 11:17

Still got what i bought it with so i would assume it's still just the stock. 14t is on my list of things to do. Just thought i'd do all the free and easy things first

**Transalper** · 19th July 2007, 12:18

The impression i got from the yahoo DR group is that they don't lift the front wheel easily with stock gearing, but when you stick the 14tooth front on it makes a world of difference. Don't know, only wheel i like lofting off the ground is on my CRF.
As for free and easy, it's got to be one of the easy things and cost is small for a front sprocket.

**Mole_C** · 19th July 2007, 16:31

Well then. I should have a 14t sprocket 2mrw morning. Cost $35

**dino3310** · 19th July 2007, 22:22

howzit, i had a 1981 DR500 in my teens farkin regrt selling it that was 20 years ago,finally bought a 1999 DR650se last month absolutly love it, but it's de-reg'd am looking at putting it back on the road,have got the lights etc all hooked up and going (just gotta get some road legal knobblies) the problem is the lights (tail and blinkers) and muffler are after market it's all good for a WOF
but wont pass the re-vinn (strict bastards), i was hoping to find someone local to Hamilton,who would be able to lend me some parts for a week to get my ride though the re-vin, budget wont allow me to buy any stuff at the moment. If some one 's got some cheapish parts for sale i might be able to
scratch some cash together.
I've been waiting a long time to get back on a DR so i'm hanging out big time to get it back on the road, would be good to get any tips and stuff on the DR,
cheers Deano

**Mole_C** · 20th July 2007, 13:37

Well 14t is going on now. Had to grind down the sprocket clamp thing so it doesn't rub on chain but o-ring is also to big. Should i cut it down to or is it ok to just leave it off. Would have to be pretty thin to actually fit without hitting chain

**cooneyr** · 20th July 2007, 13:42

Originally Posted by Mole_C

Well 14t is going on now. Had to grind down the sprocket clamp thing so it doesn't rub on chain but o-ring is also to big. Should i cut it down to or is it ok to just leave it off. Would have to be pretty thin to actually fit without hitting chain

I've got a different plate for fitting with the 14 tooth (factory one I think - came with the bike). It doesnt have the o-ring (not really sure of its purpose anyway) and is a flat plate i.e. not dished to hold an o-ring like the 15 tooth.

Just use your ground one without the o-ring.

Cheers R

**Transalper** · 20th July 2007, 15:08

My plate has been ground a little smaller to stop the chain riding on it too (forgot to mention that earlier), and i don't see a o-ring/damper so i deduce it has been removed.