damn i dunno if am having the same problem probably i am... i find the r6 very high cant touch.
hopefully my next bike is gonna be the cbr600rr once i get my full in 6 months time and i think i might need lowering kits,will it affect the handling of the bike, at the moment i got a cbr250rr and the seat highet is perfect
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lowering a bike is a pice of piss. just differnt springs. Rasing a bikke on the othe hand.... BTW if you do get one lowered slorten the side stand at the same time, the lowering of the bike makes it very unstable on the side stand.
A little whileago I saw a race gear shifter that had 2 gear shift er "posts'
As I recallthe whole idea was that you diddnt have to move your foot up and over the gearshift to change gears.
I wonder if something similar would help you her b 4--asin it couldbe set up so you toe down on one and lift upon the other
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Still shoulda bought the Laverda, that was one honey of a bike![]()
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Harley Davidson have been making a wonderfull range of motorcycles very suitable for folk that suffer from "slights syndrome" for years and years and years and......... No boot mods required at all.![]()
Her B4, you should go sit on a BMW F800. They are at the low end to start with. Then they have a lower seat option which is still very comfortable, and now a lower suspension option.
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If you're going to the Welington bday bash, Cajun and I will chat to you (or anyone else in need) there. We've lowered truckloads of bikes, not only for me but for others too.
I'm on my third bike that I've had to lower (damn Itallion bikes are sooo tall). The Gixxer 1000 was by far the easiest with dogbones and dropping the front forks through the triple clamp. This only cost like $50. I never noticed the drop in handling, but I never enjoyed riding that thing anyway...
The VTR was piss easy to lower and we did this by modifying the shock. It cost me $300 at Mount Motorcycles, but it also got the seat down by 4cm. Well worth the money in my opinion, well, at least compared to the cost of new fairings! Back to the handling again, it didn't leave me at any disadvantage the day I crashed it at the track. Either that, or the guys in my group couldn't ride for shit
The RSV is just a bitch to lower. We've taken everything we can out of the seat, the forks are already dropped through, and we've made every adjustment we can to get the bike lower. I've only got a toe down on each side and I want it lowered another inch so I can get the ball of my foot down.
Next steps:
1. Lose weight (thinner legs = less fat between my short bones and the bike, giving me more foot on the ground)
2. Investigate another shock to see if it's got more adjustment in it
3. Build up boots (last resort).
If you adjust the gear lever up then you wont be able to get your platformed foot on top of it - before I got my sidi's I was making do with a set of big clompy new rock boots that had quite a thick sole, when I wanted to change down I had to take my foot right off the peg and stomp on the lever. Frosty's suggestion sounds like a goodun.
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Yes - I had a CBR250RR as (one of my) starter bikes,and have owned a CBR600F4i and ridden a CBR600RR the latter two bikes both having a HONDA lowering kit fitted.
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Works well, but if you have the bike on its lowest setting (and as mentioned elsewhere) you DO need to look at shortening the side stand as the bike is virtually upright and a puff of wind blows it over(trust me on this one)
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I must mention however that I had already had an initial modification on my bike boots at the time of riding these bikes and so I was able to get the ball of my foot down.
This later modification to my boots is specifically to address the lack of foot purchase for my new bike ('bella rossa'), without compromising handling. In my experience and opinion, any adjustment to the front forks, suspension etc is a compromise on handling to some extent.
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Yep Frosty there have been a number of changes suggested to the gear lever including the old 'toe / heel' set up (can't remember which bikes they were on) and a large reversed 'C' shape where the foot could rest in the middle of of the C and toe up and down without straining on the knee which is not working at all well since the accident. The latter could end up being quite dangerous if your boot got stuck etc.
Your idea is one of the better oneshowever you have to remember that because of the thickness and weight of the boot I have lost ability to 'feel' where pegs, levers etc actually are.
The GOOD news is that I have discovered several things about this new bike that I am rather entranced with:
1. It doesn't seem to matter that I can't feel the gear shift or pegs, my foot appears to have a good memory and overcompensates when it needs to for the knee that is not working.
and totally off topic -
2. 100 - 150 appears to be within a split second
3. At 130 if you open the throttle the front lifts (kinda rises / glides up
very very smoothly and its very deceptive)
4. None of the above is helpful if you are riding down a narrow
winding hill road at twilight filled with boy racers......
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