Oil filter wrench & oil type

[bert_is_evil]

I'm brokedy brokey broke at the moment so am going to do my own oil & filter changes from now on. I don't have an oil filter wrench but I do have a torque wrench, I'm wondering if you can buy fitting to go on the torque wrench for the filter rather than buying a filter wrench? I was going to buy a filter wrench but when I consulted my owners manual it shows a torque wrench and gives a tightning measurement so I figure that would be a better investment?

I have the filter but I'm confused about what type the oil should be, the manual has the diagram below, but that gives me too many choises so I need some advice please.

Thanks

[justsomeguy]

hi,

Not sure why you need a torque wrench. Just use a normal spanner to losen the sump plug. If your oil filter sticks out externally cover it with a couple of plastic bags and seal it with some rubber bands (to prevent a mess) then carefully stab it with a screwdriver and use that as a handle to twist it off.

Buy a new sump plug washer and before srcrewing it back on lightly coat the filter washer with a little oil. Screw it back on to hand tightness.

As for what oil, ring a few bike shops up. The Motul Factory line is what I use for my bike. However Plutoline make a nice line too.

In that picture the numbers up top indicate the surrounding temperature that the bike oil performs best in.

[Cajun]

Shrug i have changed oil on the 600 past few services, with out any issue, i don;t have a filter wrench, i just use my Bananman Super Powers, to highen up the filter with, and the sump plug i use normal socket set.

Oil i would suggust some semi synthic oil of some kind from you favouite bike shop.

[bert_is_evil]

Oh right, I've done an oil & filter change in a car before but not a bike, not sure why I assumed it would have to be done up to a particular tightness (perhaps I just care more about my bike than my old car). I like the stabbing it with a screwdriver idea, that hadn't ocurred to me. Thanks for that

[Cajun]

just make sure you put a bit of oil on the oil filter oring before attaching it to bike.

yeah i stab old filter with a screw driver also to get it off,

remmeber best to dump the oil in bike when the engine is warm.

I am sure there be someone in wellington area that could give you a handy, if you haven't done a oil change on a bike before

[The Stranger:Me]

I'm brokedy brokey broke at the moment so am going to do my own oil & filter changes from now on. I don't have an oil filter wrench but I do have a torque wrench, I'm wondering if you can buy fitting to go on the torque wrench for the filter rather than buying a filter wrench? I was going to buy a filter wrench but when I consulted my owners manual it shows a torque wrench and gives a tightning measurement so I figure that would be a better investment?

I have the filter but I'm confused about what type the oil should be, the manual has the diagram below, but that gives me too many choises so I need some advice please.

Thanks

As is typical of KB you are going to get all sorts of conflicting answers.
Stabbing with a screwdriver should only be used as an absolute last resort. It is not the kind of thing I would recommend to someone who hasn't changed a filter before. I have seen 2 issues go wrong with this approach.1) The filter doesn't budge, but instead the screw driver rips the filter apart leaving you with a buggered filter and no vehicle to drive and you still have the original problem to resolve, but less options now.
2) There is a threaded pipe which extends a small way up the inside of the filter I have seen that hit and snapped with the screw driver.

There are many different and inexpensive oil filter removing tools for fitting in different situations. It wouldn't hurt to go to Repco or similar and ask to try them and see what fits your particular bike.

As to the grade of oil, any grade that falls within the ambient air temperature range for where the bike will be used is ok. If you are going for a full synthetic I would use the 10W-40 or if you are going for a semi synthetic I use a 15W-40. A 10W-30 will give you a little more power but also a little more engine wear.

[vifferman]

If (and it's a big IF) the filter has been properly fitted, you should be able to get it off with your bare hands. If not, then use whatever means you can, given the constraints of room to move etc. I've used a strap-type wrench, a universal chain wrench (an expensive and almost invariably most useless tool), and even a monkey wrench to remove filters on all my cars'n'bikes I've owned (thousands and thousands, if not more than a couple). I've only once ever had to resort to killing the filter with a sharpened screwdriver through the heart.
Here's the important bit: when you put the new filter on, moisten the seal with a smear of engine oil, and tighten it with your hand only - NO TOOLS.
Engine oil: virtually anything in the appropriate grade made by a reputable manufacturer will do - don't get too hung up on it. I usually use Motul 5100, but that's because I like the smell.

[NinjaNanna]

As is typical of KB you are going to get all sorts of conflicting answers.
Stabbing with a screwdriver should only be used as an absolute last resort. It is not the kind of thing I would recommend to someone who hasn't changed a filter before. I have seen 2 issues go wrong with this approach.1) The filter doesn't budge, but instead the screw driver rips the filter apart leaving you with a buggered filter and no vehicle to drive and you still have the original problem to resolve, but less options now.
2) There is a threaded pipe which extends a small way up the inside of the filter I have seen that hit and snapped with the screw driver.

There are many different and inexpensive oil filter removing tools for fitting in different situations. It wouldn't hurt to go to Repco or similar and ask to try them and see what fits your particular bike.

As to the grade of oil, any grade that falls within the ambient air temperature range for where the bike will be used is ok. If you are going for a full synthetic I would use the 10W-40 or if you are going for a semi synthetic I use a 15W-40. A 10W-30 will give you a little more power but also a little more engine wear.

Listen to this man, he is exactly right, my removal tool I bought from Super Cheap and cost about $15, it has a metal band that tightens around the filter and is quite small, so its been perfect for the couple of bikes that I've had.

[bert_is_evil]

It is true that I most likely would break something or stab myself if I started stabing at things with a screwdriver

[bert_is_evil]

I just spoke to my Mum who is coming to visit me for the weekend - she said I could have her oil filter wrench and is going to bring it with her Now I just need to buy some oil and I'm ready to go.

[Mental Trousers]

Use a semi-synthetic. A 10W40 is ok but your girl will probably burn a fair amount of that meaning you'd have to top it up regularly. So something like a 15W50 would be good. Most bike shops sell Motul so give that a try. Definitely do not use car oil.

Instead of stabbing the filter with a screw driver use a belt. Wrap it around the filter, put it through the buckle but don't use the little pointy thing that stops it coming undone. Then fold it back so it's pulling hard against the buckle and give it heaps. Usually works sweet as and if it doesn't then the only that will definitely move the filter is a filter wrench.

[Swoop]

...then carefully stab it with a screwdriver and use that as a handle to twist it off.

Buy a new sump plug washer and before srcrewing it back on ...

I would suggest purchasing the sump plug washer before you start pulling things apart. (A different storey if you do not know the size, of course)
There is nothing worse than requiring a new "bit" when the bike has parts scattered all over the gagre floor!

[Coldrider]

Do not get used engine oil on your hands/skin, it is so bad for you (known carciogen,) get a pair of latex gloves (so cheap).

[justsomeguy]

I would suggest purchasing the sump plug washer before you start pulling things apart. (A different storey if you do not know the size, of course)
There is nothing worse than requiring a new "bit" when the bike has parts scattered all over the gagre floor!

Oh ofcourse - I was speaking of the process as a whole. Any reputable bike shop should be able to sell you all that you need. A filter removal tool shouldn't cost more than $25 - but I like the idea of stabbing something.

[Coldrider]

but I like the idea of stabbing something.

I've stabbed one before also, Ive also cut one in parts to see the crud captured.