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Thread: Breakdown

  1. #16
    Join Date
    7th February 2007 - 04:22
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    bandit 1250 and 900 fire blade
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    NZ somewhere
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    i would say its more like a kill switch on the gear lever, it happened in 4th gear both times right?

    might be that something is making a connection there?



    i dunno, just my tuppence worth.........
    i wouldnt want to be caught dead in the same grave as me.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    19th July 2007 - 11:35
    Bike
    Suzuki GN250 - 2005
    Location
    Auckland
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    61
    I was thinking about that too, but can't be 100% sure it was in 4th both times, I think first time may have been in 5th gear, 2nd time was definitely 4th gear.

    When trying to restart, it took longer than normal, then finally came right but not for long, as though the fuel was being restricted or something... I'm really shooting in the dark here and I know more about the shape of the back of my head than I do about bikes and engines!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    12th March 2006 - 16:03
    Bike
    2006 Suzuki gn250
    Location
    Waipawa
    Posts
    13

    Had similar

    I run my GN without battery and air side covers. Serviceman once installed air filter intake wif vent facing wrong way. Material of my pants ended up covering intake, took awhile to figure out why bike would cut out, but then fire up again O.K. after.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    19th July 2007 - 11:35
    Bike
    Suzuki GN250 - 2005
    Location
    Auckland
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    61
    awful-truth came round and had a look at it just now.

    The spark plug's head was covered in black soot, gave it a rough clean off.
    Put some engine start in air filter, as it was starting poorly.
    Suggested a better fuel, Mobil's 98 (Synergy 8000?).
    Suggested a few other thing in general bike care and maintenance as well as possible causes.

    A very helpful guy who went out of his way to help me get back on the road- it was very much appreciated!

    I can't afford to conk out on the motorway again, so I'll take it back to Coleman's and ask them give give it a good look-over, as it's under warranty. I found a thread saying this model is made in China, and hence prone to issues with things not doing what they should, so while it's under warrantly I'll get it sorted out and try to get a good couple of thousand k's out of it to work out all the bugs and get them replaced with decent parts.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    7th November 2004 - 11:00
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    Aquired by locals
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    Groote Eylandt
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    Good to see its sorting itself.

    Have you tried it now the spark plugs are clean and sorted?
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    Than facing fearful odds
    For the ashes of his fathers
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  6. #21
    Join Date
    19th July 2007 - 11:35
    Bike
    Suzuki GN250 - 2005
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    Auckland
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    Not at high speed, which is where the problems were. I would say that was likely to be a large part of it, if not the whole reason, but I'm wondering why they were like that in the first place. Was it my driving? Using choke too much/too often (as he suggested it may be choke related)? Or a fault with the carb?

    Hopefully can get an answer from Coleman's on Tuesday. Until then, no motorway for me!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    30th June 2006 - 17:30
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    SV1000s
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    704
    stink to here that you are having troubles so soon after buying yourself a bike mate, hope it all gets sorted soon as!

  8. #23
    Join Date
    25th June 2007 - 21:21
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    S1000RR
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    Christchurch
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    So was it a fuel problem? Thank god I thought you would miss this Wednesday night ride


    If you can make it on Kiwibiker you can make it anywhere.

  9. #24
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    Well, there might be a blockage in the carb or fuel line. At high speeds the engine would flow enough fuel that the fuelling system cannot keep up, so it splutters and dies.

    You don't ride with the choke on, do you? I don't think you do, but just in case you do, don't ^_^. It's very important -- especially with an air-cooled small-capacity single like yours/ours -- to give your bike a good warm-up. I start my bike, then leave it to warm up while I put my helmet/gloves/jacket/scarf on. By the time you do that the bike has been idling for a good while and should be warm enough that there is no need for any choke any more.

    To my very limited experience it sounds like fuel blockage or water in the fuel. Take it to Colemans, they should do it for no charge I would think. You're right, the newer GNs do seem to have a few niggles that need sorting when you first get them, usually stuff like bulbs and chains, consumable parts. But I haven't heard of engine worries yet.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    Crashed it.
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    Auckland
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    2,043
    Bit of a double header I feel...

    Firstly, low on fuel, then the plug was soot fouled by using the choke to get the hot engine running.

    I've had a quick nosey but I can't find those new spark plugs I had lying around but I'll keep an eye out.

    As I suspected, it does have a slightly wrong resistor type plug in it, and given the corrosion on the body it's probably been in there a fair while so well due for a change anyway. I've always found once they're soot fouled they're never quite the same again anyway. The one you want is an NGK D8EA not a DR8EA. Don't let anyone talk you into a Champion, Autolite or Bosch (Australia) etc brand plug - NGK are the business.

    This is for an earlier model, but I honestly can't see them being any different.

    Anyway, fill 'er up with the best fuel the budget will handle, and next time it starts to die, flick the fuel tap onto reserve before anything else.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    19th July 2007 - 11:35
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    Suzuki GN250 - 2005
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    Auckland
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    61
    Thanks again mate, will definitely try that. There have been two occasions I rode with choke on, but only about 20-50 meters just when I started it, will let it warm up first and turn off choke before moving from now on, and will look for one of those plugs too! I'm not worried about cost for fuel/parts, because the wrong parts could cost me more in repairs/time/towing. Today cost me over $150 in time off work and a tow truck.

    I didn't think it was very low on the fuel, which shows how much I know! I've done two commutes to the shore and back, and three practice days/evenings of about 1 hour each, plus today's little adventure, and the tank was full when I got it. I didn't think it would chew fuel so fast!

    Cheers anyway and thanks again, I learned a lot today. You really went out of your way to help me, not many people would do that for a stranger online.

  12. #27
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    22nd May 2007 - 17:27
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    red
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    enzed
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    does it have a kill switch?? (not sure with gn,s)
    Last edited by ipod1098; 9th September 2007 at 17:48. Reason: sorry no read 2nd page

  13. #28
    Join Date
    5th December 2006 - 18:22
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    2000 Honda CBR600F4, RG50/GL145 Bucket
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    Whitby, Wellington
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    If it's fuel-related, it could be a couple of things ...

    Here's one option: What sounds plausible is that the vent to your tank is blocked (spiders are really good at that). Off you ride, fuel is being sucked into the engine but a vaccuum is being formed in the tank. Finally, the vacuum of the engine just cannot suck gas out of the tank and it dies. You sit there for a while, the vent wheezes away and finally the pressure in the tank is equalised - it all works again.

    Idea Two: If the bike has been sitting for a while and has picked up moisture in the fuel system then you'll have some in your filter and maybe also in the float bowl of the carby. Both will limit the amount of fuel you get.

    Idea Three: If it has acumulated crusty deposits in the fuel system, they may have formed on the needle valve and be obstructing the rate of fuel flow into the bowl of the carby. What happens is that as you get up speed and load, the flow from the tank can't fill the bowl as fast as the engine needs it and eventually it starves.

    Since it's under warranty, touch none of these things, take it back to the shop. It is almost certainly fuel-related and they need to give the system a good clean out.

  14. #29
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    21st May 2005 - 21:12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deviant View Post
    Thanks again mate, will definitely try that. There have been two occasions I rode with choke on, but only about 20-50 meters just when I started it, will let it warm up first and turn off choke before moving from now on, and will look for one of those plugs too! I'm not worried about cost for fuel/parts, because the wrong parts could cost me more in repairs/time/towing. Today cost me over $150 in time off work and a tow truck.

    I didn't think it was very low on the fuel, which shows how much I know! I've done two commutes to the shore and back, and three practice days/evenings of about 1 hour each, plus today's little adventure, and the tank was full when I got it. I didn't think it would chew fuel so fast!

    Cheers anyway and thanks again, I learned a lot today. You really went out of your way to help me, not many people would do that for a stranger online.
    what i used to do with mine was reset the trip meter every single time i filled. wind it back to zero. i *think* the tank range is 200-oddk, plus reserve of roughly 20k [once i hit reserve, i filled asap, so have no idea how far it actually does go!]
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  15. #30
    Join Date
    6th December 2004 - 15:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by awful-truth View Post
    As I suspected, it does have a slightly wrong resistor type plug in it, and given the corrosion on the body it's probably been in there a fair while so well due for a change anyway. I've always found once they're soot fouled they're never quite the same again anyway. The one you want is an NGK D8EA not a DR8EA. Don't let anyone talk you into a Champion, Autolite or Bosch (Australia) etc brand plug - NGK are the business.

    This is for an earlier model, but I honestly can't see them being any different.
    The new gn manual says to use a DR8EA, but the old gn's use D8EA. Why would they move to a resisted plug?

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