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Thread: The good oil?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    22nd October 2002 - 11:00
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    Sold
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    Quote Originally Posted by klyong82 View Post
    Wasnt there a thread not too long ago on how new bikes had to use mineral oils for first 6000km or 3000km only after that to be changed to a semi or full syn. oil??
    Conventional wisdom says you should use a mineral oil on new engines as the anti-friction properties are less than with semi or fully synthetic. This means that the bedding in process isn't protracted and you don't glaze the bores. However, with modern coated bores and high precision machining tolerances, you have to wonder whether it's less relevant now.

    Incidentally, our company tested Mobil 1 on our vehicle fleet when it was first being developed. Spectographic analysis showed that wear debris in the oil was about 3 times less than with the Mobil multigrade used at that time. That's not the whole story of course, frequency of change and price also have to be factored in.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    14th February 2006 - 08:20
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    Like Dani Pedrosa's RC211V now!
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    Thanks guys!! My understand is alot clearer now.
    Don't just live to ride but ride to live.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    28th February 2007 - 12:31
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    01' NZ Postie CT110
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    Ngati Whatua o Orakei
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    I run Motul 5100, 10W 40.

    My engine has down a good 94,000 km and it's still beating... *phew*

    I know the guy at the local motorcycle garage who stocks it in bulk so you can get good
    4-5L for $36.00, instead of paying $55.00 retail. But you gotta supply your own container.

    PM me if you want some.....

    *yay for KB*

  4. #19
    Join Date
    15th March 2007 - 20:38
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    BMW R1200s
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    Te Atatu Peninsula
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    When I first changed the oil on the GN I used a 10w 40 mineral oil.

    I noticed the gear shift was kinda stiff when cold.
    Sometimes on real cold days it was hard to select first until the bike had been running 3-4 minutes.

    I changed to Motul 5100 10w 40 and the gear shift feel improved greatly.
    I also noticed a fuel economy improvement.

    I've always run full synthetic in my cars in the crankcase, gearbox and diff.
    Might cost a little extra but seems to me to be worth it for the added protection.

  5. #20
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    14th February 2006 - 08:20
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    Quote Originally Posted by HungusMaximist View Post
    I run Motul 5100, 10W 40.

    My engine has down a good 94,000 km and it's still beating... *phew*

    I know the guy at the local motorcycle garage who stocks it in bulk so you can get good
    4-5L for $36.00, instead of paying $55.00 retail. But you gotta supply your own container.

    PM me if you want some.....

    *yay for KB*

    That was suppose to be our secret ahahaa
    Don't just live to ride but ride to live.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    23rd February 2007 - 08:47
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    Blandit 1200, DRZ250 K, Beta xtrainer
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    There is a heap of good info in the maintainence section at the mo. i just stated a thread asking for oil advice for my bike, and Motul 5100 is probably the way I am going to go.

  7. #22
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    23rd March 2007 - 22:40
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    08R6 Race bike
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    chch
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    2,025
    used 1L of 10W 40 in my FXR, just vavoline or something...seems todo the trick

  8. #23
    Join Date
    23rd March 2007 - 10:20
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    2013 ZX14R SE
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    Was browsing in Supercheap today and considering what i've been reading on here it sounds like (as i've pretty much always felt anyway) full synthetics are the shizzle and I thought of getting some Castrol R4 Superbike oil..... $95!!!! for 4 litres!!!! sheesh, at that rate you'd wanna leave it in for 10,000k. If I did'nt already have a new bottle of Motul 5100 at home I would have given it a try though I think. Is anyone running this oil at the moment? If so what are your thoughts?

  9. #24
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    4th September 2004 - 22:36
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    I use Shell Rimula diesel engine oil.

  10. #25
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    23rd October 2007 - 15:21
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    1982 Laverda Jota, 1969 BSA Starfire
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    South Taranaki Bight
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    Fully-synthetic oil, like AMSOIL, lubricates better and better the hotter it gets, while semi-synth and mineral oil gets progressively less useful at high temps and max power tails off. That's why it all fully-synth for highly-tuned racing bikes, especially for those long endurance races like Le Mans and Daytona.

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