A full synthetic will normally contain some Viscosity Index Improvers, though generally a lot less than a dinosaur oil, and yes they will break down, you still have to perform an oil change when using synthetic oils.
It was an attempt to convey a complex message as economically as possible.
The real issue (that I was trying to convey) is the loss of viscosity via break down of the additive package.
The dino oils in particular break down very fast.
According to some tests within 800 miles some motorcycle specific dino oils will retain only 70% of their viscosity. The synthetics in general, by comparison perform much better.
Since NZ isn't really the harshest environment a bike can be exposed to and so long as you use a know brand oil that is the same as or close to the weight range the manufacturer recommends this is probably a very relevant test, the 'box action is the first, most noticeable and in most cases (placebo effect aside) the only difference people will notice between oils. So long as you do regular changes and the above criteria are met your engine isn't going to fail due to the oil.
I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653
Ok, so we have established I am a mainstream creature of habit and will go with a bike specific good quality semi synthetic. Soooo-any risk of trying different brands-same viscosity-or better to find one and stick with it...?
No risk in trying different stuff.
I ran my VFR on motul 41004T for years, but the Fireblade has been on Shell helix, Castrol something, and whatever Cyclespot put in it when I was too lazy to do it myself. I have not had any problems, or noticed any difference in the gearbox.
You won't know till you try.
vagrant
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks