Home-made soft bags for me - a couple of Voyager V1205 cabin bags modified to act as panniers were quite sufficient to carry everything I needed for the Cold Kiwi except my tent and water bottle (which went on the tail rack).
Of course they're not fully waterproof but I carry all my gear in plastic bin liners anyway.
They caused no problems with the handling of the bike (but I took it easy just to be on the safe side). A couple of times one strap came loose but they remained firmly in place thanks to the bungee straps I used to stop them from swinging outward or shifting forward/back.
I'm well pleased as they're quite large but cost less than $80 all up - including the bits to modify them.
Motorbike Camping for the win!
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