Surely motorad mechs in welly wouldnt be that amature to not start it and pump the oil through, surely?? thats infant stuff
i noticed because of the engine noise, it sounded different, i understand that it would pump out the excess if it was over filled but thats all, i dont want to know about rings, ill just trade it in on that shiney er6n.
Sounds too much to me – see the shop you purchased it from and have them set the oil level correctly and pop back in 1000kms for them to check it out. If it has gone through a lot talk to the shop. Also check you air filter box – it should be nice and dry in there – if it is wet with an oily feel, this is usually rings.
I don’t expect any oil use out of my new engine or at least f-all between changes.
Suzuki had a issue with some of the 2002 Bandits due to oversize holes in the oil ring groove and some went through a fair bit of oil – apparently mainly at low revs. Their official response was that there was no problem unless it was burning more that 1 litre every 1600kms! That’s topping–up 3 litres within the specified 5000 km oil change intervals! They only take 3.5 l for an oil/filter change ………
I do wonder if the semi synthetic oils are being put in new engines too early (first 1000km service) I asked about this with my new Hornet but I was assured that it will be fine provided it was not babied too much within that first 1000 kms.
Don't just live to ride but ride to live.
Depends on the bike. Definitely with a dry-sump engine warm it up first, and perhaps the more modern bikes with oil filters, but many of the bikes from my era you're not supposed to check the oil until it's cooled down, oddly enough.
Says the same thing in the official Honda workshop manual and the Haynes. Put bike on centre-stand, check oil either from cold or when given a few minutes for the oil in the top end to drip down to the sump.
I'm quite anal about checking oil usage, check it every time I ride the bike. Never seems to use any despite the leaks. I've had to top it up only once or twice between oil changes (admittedly small intervals), and that's been on very long open-road runs where the engine gets a real workout. Still, it was only the difference between being in the middle of the dipstick Min/Max and then falling to Min or just a hair below. A tweak on the head/rocker cover/side cover bolts fixes that.
It's not the colling down so much as just giving the oil that's around the engine (in the head, etc.) time to run back to the sump. Otherwise you could think it was low and end up overfilling it.
I've used Motul in my last four bikes - never had any issues with burning it, excessive consumption, etc. The only bike that did need topping up was the VTR1000, but apparently that's very common.
I've tried Mobil 1 (or 4T, or whatever it's called) as other VFR owners raved about it, but I thought it made the gearchanges feel a bit more notchy.
I've also used Shell bike oil, Elf, Castrol, Vanellus, and some other oils I can't remember. They were all fine.
I suspect that unless you use an oil that's way outside the recommended viscosity, and modern oil's going to be OK. And changing it more frequently than recommended is just wasting your money ("and contributing to global warming"), unless your engine's worn and is contaminating the oil very quickly.
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....![]()
dunno dude--but people make mistakes-phone calll just as the bike was being filled up
quick story --a once very well known and reputable performance shop did a ground up engine rebuild on a suzuki gsx1100-took it out to 1230 as I recall
Then forgot to put oil in the motor --very messy
To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?
I've had oil seemingly go missing on the GN.
I think it came from giving it a thrashing while it was still a bit cold.
Level was fine one day and had dropped down to low after a day of riding.
Topped it up and it's been sweet since.
My best guess is that when the motor is cold the rings may not seal correctly at high revs and thus allow it to burn some oil.
As far as checking goes - wet sump should be checked when cold. Ideally first thing before you have run the bike at all.
Dry sump is checked when the motor is running. If you are unsure which you have check the handbook - or do a search online.
I've observed this too.Spectro semi syn, however gives very smooth gear shifting in the Bandit.
Also the bandit should have it's oil checked when held upright on it's wheels (eg off the stand).
Putting it on the stand will bring the observed oil level down from the high mark to the low mark.
A litre is too much in any bike, some are old and regular top-up's keep it in check but thats not the case for you. My one doesn't use any oil. Gets checked a few times a week and I keep it half-way between L and F. When I get back from a ride I come inside, get out of my gear then go back out while the oil is hot still but has drained back into the sump and check. If it's burning it that fast blue smoke on start-up would tell. Some oils may get hot enough that they burn clean on a hot engine. You'd notice that much leaking too, thats ton's. Dude shops are there to make money and I normaly do the oil and filters on mine myself but the last time it was done I got the full service done (get a shop to do everything every 10,000K's) and they put 2L of oil in (biike takes ~1.4L) and it ran like shit. Real sluggish till I drained off the excess. They may just got "yep thats about it" and biff in what they guess is right for your bike. God on ya for keeping an eye on it tho', too many people just keep on riding and don't have a clue whats going on under them unless it siezes!
I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653
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