wow, so many Q's.. I'll give it a shot..
personally, I think these bikes rock. And yes, I might be slightly biased. Don't care. My 636 just keeps givin, and forgives me when I've pushed a bit too hard, or been a dick. Love it. great bikes. and yeah, blue is ok.. JSG didn't own this one, did he..??
Yes they Rock! And the Blue one's are faster!!
Nah it's not JSG's bike. Did a history check some dude it Taranaki bought it new.
no personal idea here. I prefer to keep tyres paired together, but it depends on how hard you're going to be pushing the bike. If you're going balls out, then you might want to consider swapping one end or the other, for the matching set. If you want to spend some time getting used to it, and the real hard riding is a bit more down the track, then wait until you get a feel for the bike, and go with something you know/feel better on, and find a mean deal. Also, the stock front tyre is a 65, which is hardly around. Just go to the 70 and some people dick around with dropping the forks etc etc blah blah, forget that. Just stick the 70 on and leave it.
Yeah that's what I had in mind that I would use the one's I've got now and go for something like 2CT's or Conti tyres later on. Will be no where near balls out pushing the bike as yet as I am still getting used to it aye. I am still working on getting back to where I left off before my accident. It has a 120/70/17 at the moment and the forks haven't been dicked around with, which is good.
Again, a pref. Some people run higher than other people, and it also depends on if it's a track day (drop a few psi), type of tyre and make of tyre. General rule of thumb seems to be 38r/36f (ish). Start somewhere there and see how you feel. And
don't trust the pressure gauge at the gas station. They're all out. I run these pressures for day to day running around, and weekend riding. I drop mine to 35r/34f for the track.
I am running on 38 36 at moment and it seems fine. I normally use the pump at BP with a digital guage and it fits easily as well.
doesn't make much difference. Some people swear black and blue they can tell the difference when they stick it in their tank. Personally, makes no change to me/my bike. Just use whatever is at the pump. In theory, the higher the octane, the better the performance, so knock yourself out..
Supposedly, Viffer has another theory on it though...hmm conpuzzled.
talk to someone like Shaun Harris, who set up my bike, or Robert Taylor. They'll be able to point you in the right direction, and/or be able to fit you in to set you up. It's really really really worth getting someone like Robert or Shaun to sort you out. It's gold, honest. There's a few others round here that can help you out too, like HRTboy.. send him a pm and ask too.
I'll chat with HRT and bungy (sp) at Mt Eden apparently he knows his stuff so might get him to set it up initially and once I am more into track days I'll be contacting Shaun or Robert.
I still get my bike serviced at Spectrum every 6000kms, and I'm sure they stick in a cheaper semi-synth oil in. I change the oil about 3000kms after the service, so the bike doesn't go for much more than that without a change. I always chuck in a fully synth if I can afford it, and it makes a huge difference. Castrol is good, I've never had any probs, but go to the bike shop you like (even Repco stocks good synth bike oil) and see how much you can part with. The more it cost, the better it feels. But not much point in blowing $100+ on oil if it's not a race bike imo.
Yeah super cheap seems to be the place and they even have a manual with lists of bikes and recommended oil for them, so I'll stick with that.
learn ebay dude, it helps. Else there's plenty of shops in the US and Oz that'll ship this way. Just have to look around. There's probably a few places here, and there's sometimes some on TM that I've seen. If you can't see it for the 6, then send the guy a question and see if he can get them.
no idea. They came with both the seat and cowl. eBay again.. best bet
Yeap need to get around using ebay and trusting overseas people.
You can still chop it down. A butcher job is just hack off the bottom with a small saw. I've made a couple that I've had on mine. Again, stacks on eBay. Or get creative. Really isn't hard. My first attempt was two number plate brackets, one screwed to the bike, the other screwed to the plate, held together with the flashers. Second was my own design for my new indicators, I had the design fabricated and I stuck it on. PoP
I am guessing as a minimum you have to have the reflector for WOF aye, so that's about it.
tank pad - any bike shop, personal pref.
crash bungs - order Oggy. Best on the market imo
air filter - leave it. Take the mesh off, viola. Honestly.
Hal lights - forget it. These lights are pretty bright. may be higher rated bulbs at best. wouldn't loose too much sleep over them
clutch should last as long as you treat it right. Mine's at 46k and starting to slip, and I've been having fun with 2nd gear clutch wheelies. When it goes, change it. Leave it until then
chain & sprockets - depends on how well loved they've been. If they need replacing, replace them. You then have options of going -1 in the front and/or +? on the rear. It'll throw your speedo out, but 'give you more torque'. Again, my bike is on it's second chain, and original f/r sprockets
Valve clearances are at 24k, 48k, 72k etc..
nice. Look forward to seeing you out there..
almost as nice as orange

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