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Thread: "detuning" KDX220

  1. #1
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    13th January 2004 - 11:00
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    "detuning" KDX220

    My KDX is on the whole a bloody nice bike. Its light easy to work on etc etc.
    The only problem with it is its got a performance pipe on it. Its rather er Peaky in power delivery.
    Ive been offered a factory pipe to fit to it but before I do so.
    As a rule do I need to rejet and reset reeds as part of this exercise?
    Any feedback would be apreciated.
    PS--Still looking for a tank
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  2. #2
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    15th June 2006 - 13:39
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    possibly will have to look at rejetting, you wont have to do anything to the reeds
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  3. #3
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    do not need to rejet going back to std pipe, did you try baileys for that tank?

  4. #4
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    Or you could just HTFU frosty and stop riding like a girl
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  5. #5
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    archer--not a matter of hardening up dude.As is it aint suitable for the short tight track Im riding it on. Im either fouling the plug or slipping the clutch -On a fast open track it flies
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  6. #6
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    2nd October 2005 - 00:47
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    Maybe gear it down a bit?

  7. #7
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    7th February 2007 - 10:09
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    Your KDX shouldn't be fouling plugs, no matter what trails you ride. Your current jetting must be hugely rich if it's fouling plugs.

    If you put the original pipe back on (the double skinned heavy grey coloured thing), you'll shave all the good stuff off the power curve without necessarily putting anything back into the curve down low. I have converted pipes the other way and saw no disadvantages but a heap more peak power in so doing.

    KDX 220s were quite rich in the lower mid with factory jetting. Their 33mm carbs used a #5 slide (the 35mm carb on the 200s had the leaner #6 from memory), which, in conjunction with the supplied needle, even when the needle was on its leanest groove, meant the mixture was very rich just off idle (where you might be in amongst the trees on a tight single track). Mine was very rich as delivered but still didn't foul plugs or spooge much. A 35mm replacement carb with a #6 slide cured the issue for me. The main was a 155 but I can't remember the needle, sorry (the bike was sold years ago).

    You may be able to find another leaner needle profile and keep using the quite-expensive-to-replace #5 slide. YMMV

    Good luck

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FROSTY View Post
    slipping the clutch
    You should be doing that, Tony. Keep the revs up and slip the clutch to control your progress.

  9. #9
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    Good KDX site here too.
    http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/

  10. #10
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    17th July 2006 - 13:53
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    every aftemaket pipe ive ridden with has increased low end power probably more so than increasing top end power. putting the standard pipe of id imagine will make it even harder to ride

  11. #11
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    flywheel weight?
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by GR81 View Post
    flywheel weight?
    It'll make it more tractable down low but it'll still be rich.

    I'd add a weight and re-jet.

  13. #13
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    sell the bike and buy my RM250?
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by GR81 View Post
    sell the bike and buy my RM250?
    Well it would be slower, but he would also have the problem of it breaking all the time.

  15. #15
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    16th November 2006 - 23:46
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    Is the 220 a big bore version of that 200?

    I have a 200 with a bills pipe on it and boy its just so smooth, i have no idea why this is called a "motocross pipe" modern 4 strokes are probably peakier.

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