Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
The secret is in spreading the cable before you solder it. Generally I think I just use a 50/50 or 60/40, don't really get too concerned about it, although there are definitely some better suited than others.

Seen numerous ones come back with the end broken off (i.e. my solder joint is still there with 2mm of cable sticking out), but that's due to the cable twisting as it's not correctly seated in the lever, the outer mount is fucked allowing the cable outer to flex (which causes the inner to rub on something, often the outer). I can spot these things when the cable comes in (groove worn funny in the outer ends or whatever) and I did used to tell people that they need to correct that problem or it'll break again in fairly short order... but too many people just ignore your advice, then come and 'have a go' when it breaks again soon. Now unless someone seems like a nice person, I'm like meh, they'll figure it out.

Sure, I'm an arsehole, but dickheads that won't listen made me that way New Zealand... a nation of people doing half arsed repair jobs.
Wot 'e said. I've made many and they'll not come off.

You must splay out the cable end, unravel it a wee bit, before you solder, then fill the little cup with the solder.

Most cables break either becuase they're not lubricated, or because the clutch lever is worn, If the lever is worn at the pivot bolt, it changes the geometry, so that when you pull the clutch in, it bends the cable near the nipple, instead of the nipple turning in its socket.

I use a low percentage silver solder, but tinmans solder works well. You must use a good flux, I use Duzall, in the little green bottle.