No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Yeah there's a check valve in each pair.
Further to my subterfuge the sidecover was placed there, just needs a gasket and I'll screw the cover on. If you read CMM Steve Cooper is doing a Stinger and found his pattern gasket set came with a cover gasket from an entirely different bike.
I hooked out my set and found the same thing. Oh well I'm getting to be an old hand at making gaskets from my modified MB etc.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Dropped the kids to their nans. Flights delaied wife another day. 2hrs to myself to progress. As usual its not plain sailing.
Sidecover sorted admid using taps etc.
Right, drain bolts in bottom. And now top end. Ooh-eer.
Photo a bit naff. That oil hole almost lines up. But the holes all offset say 2mm. And there's no way the doubled up transfer area is going to work. Its like the movie theatre sitting next to some guy who takes the arm rest and you're fighting back.
And the head gaskets. Well its like they tried to make them not quite fit.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Oh well 1/2 hour I won't get back.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
2 weeks go by, but the conservatory is gibbed. And we've got rid of the beer and wine, that was a chore.
I need some thicker solder. I keep finding bikes that seem to be just over 2mm. And that's without the head gaskets. I can use my sparkplug mandrel to machine the offset chambers bigger but not to surface the face or squish. Too hard to hold for me, they're a bit delicate.
Really can't put it together like that can i ?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Ta
Fold the solder in half and twist it together. Presto, fat solder. Same technique as using it for its intended purpose on large cable.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Yeah I've tried that but its hard to see where the flats are, it just tends to move out of the way.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
Bend the doubled/rolled solder into a U shape - it can't escape then.Originally Posted by F5 Dave
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Might try again like that. Jaycar is down the road but no use. Of course I work in the electronic industry where 0.7 is thick.
But the plumbing solder I have for cables is way unsuitable.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Might try again like that.
Maybe head off. Held with plasticine on piston.
Jaycar is down the road but no use. Of course I work in the electronic industry where 0.7 is thick.
But the plumbing solder I have for cables is way unsuitable.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Anorak
Find someone who does leadlight windows is large dia and soft.
http://www.leadlight.co.nz/products/...0-500g-mgs-500
http://www.clayartstudio.co.nz/acata...cessories.html
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Actually twisted tight enough Drews method worked just fine, thanks for suggesting it, made me try again.
1.9 right, 2.2 left. About the same top to bottom and wedge shaped. The suppressed racer in me is having trouble not to make new heads. But this is a road resto. I still want good cooling squish effect so I'll run without the 0.45 head gaskets (sheesh and I was worried about the 0.1 I'd added with the thicker base gaskets), and skim up to 1.3 & 1.5 to leave 0.6 squish.
I'll then open the chambers to get comm back to a soft ratio, say 12:1 should allow for using 91 but I might run it up on the dyno and if it makes more on 95 when hot I've gone too far and switch to 95.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Well having lost a bunch of momentum over Christmas and being paralysed over putting the engine in or fixing the obvious design mistake of crazy squish. Dropped the heads to Karl to do the flat cut, then I'll do the chambers to suit.
But where to restart a project? At the other end of course.
This took like 2hrs, wire wrapping, tape, and lots of lube. Shesh what a dumb idea, would have hated to had to pay a mechanic in the 70s to change the bars.
Ahh fuck this tablet is impossible.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
The repro switch /perches seem a little more cheesey handling them. We'll see if I decide to renovate the originals at a later date.
The grips as someone pointed out were one of the first things specified in my head, that and potentially a shade variation of the tank colour (there are several but I'll match close to one I have in the gold). But I'd always decided I wanted pro grips and screw anyone else that doesn't have to ride it. I had plans of twin leading brake but lack of speedo drive skuppad that.
I filed down the throttle tube to take off the ribs and ridge then copious glue.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Anorak
I have a GT185 (I think) drum do you want me to measure it?, I think it had a speedo drive std. it was about 6 inch 2ls I think?
edit
Those early gns had a small 2ls as well it was a conical hub I think, but the brakeplate wouldn't care either way.
This is one mounted on a PE250
http://fhq7hw.blu.livefilestore.com/...Ao/hub%202.jpg
The thing I remember most about my wolf was the plasticness of the grips. I don't think it was actually the age but more the material of the grips.
Seen this today I have never seen this tank model before.
http://www.bikesrestored.com/7467/su...-stinger-1971/
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Yea I have the brake plate that goes right in, but the speedo drive is incorporated in the spacer on the other side. There isn't the room for such a spacer. Drive is tapped from the same side as the lever on std setup. Oh well,
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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