Adjust the idle for when it's up to temp, and simply warm it up before using it. It was set up correctly before, it sounds like
The ticking noise from the top end; don't the camshafts on the VFR400s have some sort of spring device to stop them from bouncing around at idle? Isn't it often removed by `hardcore race dudes' for some unknown reason?
I think they were removed for the same reason automatic camchain tensioners are removed. Under racing stress, the springs can let go, potentially causing mismatch of timing and "machine fails to proceed".
Am I right in thinking NC21 is chain driven cams, and finger followers but NC30 is gear train camdrive and shim under bucket?
Pete's problem: could be a loose tappet??
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
Nice one. mine was still going strong at 65ks but needed the shims doing.
gas wise, youll get 200kms to a tank normally, on the track make that 125ish.
Change the oil. Stiffen the rear suspension up (and a bit on the front), go to a 14t sprocket on the front (if it doesnt have already) and start saving for a set of plugs ($40 each)
then enjoy and go hard.
Originally Posted by Yojimbo View Post
. But I need to replace brake disks...front and rear. I saw rear ones on trademe for $160 BN - pretty reasonable. Don't know how much front ones are gonna set me back.
i have got a nc30 rear disc on a spare swingarm u can have for 20 bucks if u want it. Looks to be in perfect cond. these dont usually wear out at all.
Thanks for the quick replies guys, much appreciated.
The bike does have trouble idling when cold even with the choke on, but maybe its just the cold canadian weather (roughly 10 celsuis atm)
As for the ticka ticka ticka, I'll start with having the valves checked, but apart from that, I hope its nothing major, parts for this bike are impossible to find, especially around here.
Again, thanks for the input guys, lots of help, any other ideas, or things to look out for on this bike would be greatly appreciated.
p.s. : From what I gather, this bike never had an english language shop manual (due to it not being sold outside japan, I think ...) so would the manual for the NC24 or NC30 be sufficient?
I have a 1987 NC24 which exhibits Pete's problem 1, but I never really thought of it as much of a problem. The choke never seems to do anything useful so I ignore it and set the idle a bit high for the first few minutes, then when it starts to idle at 3000 I just put it back down.
of other things mentioned here I can second that a tank should get you around 200km, and the miss at 5500rpm seems to improve with high-octane fuel rather than unleaded. I guess it's supposed to be using high-oc anyway...?
They a cool. Buy one. But make sure you have a good look over it first keeping in mind that they are damn near 20 years old now. Only money I have had to spend on mone other than general maintainance was just recently on electrical system (fuckin reg/rec's) but other than that she has never let me down. Nimble as hell (my mate on his 600 daytona can't keep up with me through twisties), mechanically sound (gotta love those cam gears) and single swingarms are always a bonus (and look cool too). Highly recommended.![]()
Constantly consuming, conquer and devour.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks