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Thread: vfr 400 nc30

  1. #31
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    19th March 2007 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yojimbo View Post
    I hope the vfr is reliable as you say it is. I'm enjoying every moment...even in the damn rain! I'm pretty certain that one of my front disk is buckled. Also its had a tune-up about ~2000km ago I think. It still has that miss @5500 but no biggie.
    its fine my bike has never lived below 140000rpm since i bought it 5 years ago. if you squesse the brake does it brake smoothly or are the brakes on and off if there on and off it means you need new disks

  2. #32
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteLyons View Post
    Hi guys, I've got a question from way over in Canada.

    I recently purchased a 1986 VFR400r (NC21) with aprox 13000 kms on the odo.

    The bike is in great shape all original parts, paint, and runs great. But I do have a couple issues with it, and I'm not too sure whats going on. I've looked on the net, but info on the NC21 is sparse at best.

    Problem 1: The bike wont idle when cold. It just dies out. It will idle fine once warmed up to operating temp. I've adjusted the idle screw when cold, and that fixed the idle issue, but as soon as the bike warms up, it idles at about 3k. I'm guessing its simply a carb issue, but not too sure what (out of sync, jets clogged ???)

    Problem 2: This one might be worse. When the bike is cold, the engine sounds just peachy, but once it warms up, there is a ticking noise coming from the top end, sorta like a ticka-ticka-ticka. Now this only happens when the bike is warm, and seems to be in sync with the rpms, so it speeds up when reving higher. But it does not noticably get louder when revving higher, the intensity is quite steady.

    Anyways, I hope I've described enough detail here, if you need more info, let me know, and thanks in advance.

    Pete from Canada.
    Adjust the idle for when it's up to temp, and simply warm it up before using it. It was set up correctly before, it sounds like

    The ticking noise from the top end; don't the camshafts on the VFR400s have some sort of spring device to stop them from bouncing around at idle? Isn't it often removed by `hardcore race dudes' for some unknown reason?

  3. #33
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    9th January 2005 - 22:12
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    Quote Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat View Post
    Adjust the idle for when it's up to temp, and simply warm it up before using it. It was set up correctly before, it sounds like

    The ticking noise from the top end; don't the camshafts on the VFR400s have some sort of spring device to stop them from bouncing around at idle? Isn't it often removed by `hardcore race dudes' for some unknown reason?
    I think they were removed for the same reason automatic camchain tensioners are removed. Under racing stress, the springs can let go, potentially causing mismatch of timing and "machine fails to proceed".

    Am I right in thinking NC21 is chain driven cams, and finger followers but NC30 is gear train camdrive and shim under bucket?

    Pete's problem: could be a loose tappet??
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  4. #34
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    3rd August 2006 - 19:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yojimbo View Post
    I bought that yellow beast and I took it out to Piha yesterday. Man does she love to corner. I'm still getting used to the higher seat and the v4 grunt but can't complain. I have read Kwaka-kids review of this NC30 back in 05 so now at least, I know a little about this bikes history. But I need to replace brake disks...front and rear. I saw rear ones on trademe for $160 BN - pretty reasonable. Don't know how much front ones are gonna set me back.

    How long do these bikes last? I'm hoping it'll reach ~80k. I'm also working on getting it repainted. The guy from reflections gave me a quote ~$2200! Fuck that. Might have to pull out my DIY skills and pretty-up my NC30.

    Also shes really thirsty....like I got ~130km outta 9L of 98! I thought it would've been a lot more economical after my two-stroke...
    Nice one. mine was still going strong at 65ks but needed the shims doing.
    gas wise, youll get 200kms to a tank normally, on the track make that 125ish.

    Change the oil. Stiffen the rear suspension up (and a bit on the front), go to a 14t sprocket on the front (if it doesnt have already) and start saving for a set of plugs ($40 each)

    then enjoy and go hard.
    Quote Originally Posted by NinjaNanna View Post
    Wasn't me officer, honest, it was that morcs guy.
    Quote Originally Posted by Littleman View Post
    Yeah I do recall, but dismissed it as being you when I saw both wheels on the ground.
    Quote Originally Posted by R6_kid View Post
    lulz, ever ridden a TL1000R? More to the point, ever ridden with teh Morcs? Didn't fink so.

  5. #35
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    5th November 2007 - 13:01
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    Originally Posted by Yojimbo View Post
    . But I need to replace brake disks...front and rear. I saw rear ones on trademe for $160 BN - pretty reasonable. Don't know how much front ones are gonna set me back.


    i have got a nc30 rear disc on a spare swingarm u can have for 20 bucks if u want it. Looks to be in perfect cond. these dont usually wear out at all.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    7th January 2007 - 16:03
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteLyons View Post
    Hi guys, I've got a question from way over in Canada.

    I recently purchased a 1986 VFR400r (NC21) with aprox 13000 kms on the odo.

    The bike is in great shape all original parts, paint, and runs great. But I do have a couple issues with it, and I'm not too sure whats going on. I've looked on the net, but info on the NC21 is sparse at best.

    Problem 1: The bike wont idle when cold. It just dies out. It will idle fine once warmed up to operating temp. I've adjusted the idle screw when cold, and that fixed the idle issue, but as soon as the bike warms up, it idles at about 3k. I'm guessing its simply a carb issue, but not too sure what (out of sync, jets clogged ???)

    Problem 2: This one might be worse. When the bike is cold, the engine sounds just peachy, but once it warms up, there is a ticking noise coming from the top end, sorta like a ticka-ticka-ticka. Now this only happens when the bike is warm, and seems to be in sync with the rpms, so it speeds up when reving higher. But it does not noticably get louder when revving higher, the intensity is quite steady.

    Anyways, I hope I've described enough detail here, if you need more info, let me know, and thanks in advance.

    Pete from Canada.
    Problem 1: I find in the morning my VFR needs a fair bit a choke or it wont idle, once its been running a while its fine tho. Does it idle cold with choke on?

    Problem 2: Get your valve clearances checked.

  7. #37
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    19th March 2007 - 13:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark247 View Post
    Problem 1: I find in the morning my VFR needs a fair bit a choke or it wont idle, once its been running a while its fine tho. Does it idle cold with choke on?

    Problem 2: Get your valve clearances checked.
    valve clearances after 16000ks??? i dont think it would be that

  8. #38
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    7th January 2007 - 16:03
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom View Post
    valve clearances after 16000ks??? i dont think it would be that
    Why not? Valve clearances should be done every 20,000km or so. And if there is a ticka ticka ticka noise coming from the top end it will most likely be a worn cam or tappets ( unlikely ) or just bad clearances. What else could a ticka ticka ticka noise be from the top end?

  9. #39
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    15th May 2008 - 11:10
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    1986 VFR400R
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    Canada, quite a ways away
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    Thanks for the quick replies guys, much appreciated.

    The bike does have trouble idling when cold even with the choke on, but maybe its just the cold canadian weather (roughly 10 celsuis atm)

    As for the ticka ticka ticka, I'll start with having the valves checked, but apart from that, I hope its nothing major, parts for this bike are impossible to find, especially around here.

    Again, thanks for the input guys, lots of help, any other ideas, or things to look out for on this bike would be greatly appreciated.

    p.s. : From what I gather, this bike never had an english language shop manual (due to it not being sold outside japan, I think ...) so would the manual for the NC24 or NC30 be sufficient?

  10. #40
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    25th May 2007 - 15:34
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    I have a 1987 NC24 which exhibits Pete's problem 1, but I never really thought of it as much of a problem. The choke never seems to do anything useful so I ignore it and set the idle a bit high for the first few minutes, then when it starts to idle at 3000 I just put it back down.

    of other things mentioned here I can second that a tank should get you around 200km, and the miss at 5500rpm seems to improve with high-octane fuel rather than unleaded. I guess it's supposed to be using high-oc anyway...?

  11. #41
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    26th April 2008 - 14:49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yojimbo View Post
    Hey guys, I'm looking at this Honda on trademe atm and I'm pretty sure its the same bike on 'kwaka-kid's avatar . Anyway, I just wanted to know what you guys thought about this particular bike and NC30 in general. I have done a wee bit of reading and have a general idea but I want hear other opinions.


    Cheers
    They a cool. Buy one. But make sure you have a good look over it first keeping in mind that they are damn near 20 years old now. Only money I have had to spend on mone other than general maintainance was just recently on electrical system (fuckin reg/rec's) but other than that she has never let me down. Nimble as hell (my mate on his 600 daytona can't keep up with me through twisties), mechanically sound (gotta love those cam gears) and single swingarms are always a bonus (and look cool too). Highly recommended.
    Constantly consuming, conquer and devour.

  12. #42
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    9th January 2005 - 22:12
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    Quote Originally Posted by lankyman View Post
    They a cool. Buy one. But make sure you have a good look over it first keeping in mind that they are damn near 20 years old now. Only money I have had to spend on mone other than general maintainance was just recently on electrical system (fuckin reg/rec's) but other than that she has never let me down. Nimble as hell (my mate on his 600 daytona can't keep up with me through twisties), mechanically sound (gotta love those cam gears) and single swingarms are always a bonus (and look cool too). Highly recommended.
    He has a NC21 though which is double sided swingarm (innit?)
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  13. #43
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    7th January 2007 - 16:03
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    He has a NC21 though which is double sided swingarm (innit?)
    yea no swing arm
    NC21 = no single sided swingarm
    NC24 = single sided swing arm but hidden behind exhaust
    NC30 = awesomeness single sided swingarm

  14. #44
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    26th April 2008 - 14:49
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    He has a NC21 though which is double sided swingarm (innit?)
    Original question :"Anyway, I just wanted to know what you guys thought about this particular bike and NC30 in general"
    Constantly consuming, conquer and devour.

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