removing Yamaha DT250 flywheel??

[2_SL0]

I just got out my big hammer and cold chisel. Glad to hear its off, yell out if you want a hand.

[750Y]

yikes! lol. i do know a guy though that could use your help to remove the decals on his fazer, bring your tools... 8-)

[F5 Dave]

um, after market pullers that fit most jap flywheels are abundant in most shops & cost naff all, I dunno, mine was $15, well a billion years ago but even so. . .

To hold the flywheel to undo the bolt which likely you have already had done I got given this chain on vice grips tool which works brilliantly around a flywheel.

[2_SL0]

Would that be the Fzer that has to have the 250 decal fitted.

[750Y]

lol, i would never advocate such behaviour. not me nooooo

[1975 dt2500B]

Hey guys,

I got a 1975 DT250 B... i have striped the engine and painted it... looks really nice. I brought new points and coils and i wish to change them. I went out and got a fly wheel puller for $10 and i screw the external peice down into the fly wheel. I then wind down the internal screw down on the shaft.... i get the screw down as tight as i can but the fly wheel will NOT release for the life of me. Is there anything i am missing? Any tips? Do i have to split the casing?

Cheers
Damian.

[Ixion]

bloody big hammer.

EDIT What twattery buggered around with the BLOODY BIG HAMMER. Its called the BLOODY BIG HAMMER for a bloody good reason, it's not a puny pussy bloody big hammer.

[F5 Dave]

Nothing to do with splitting the cases, in fact that would be impossible without removing the flywheel.

OK first make sure the washer that lives under the nut is removed from the flywheel it can bind if left in there. It has obviously been on there a long time & is reluctant to part companies. Try applying heat sensibly. Maybe fan heater. Don’t go crazy with a oxy gas torch though.

Apply some oil on the threads & grease to the end of pushy bit. Tighten, use spanners on the body & nut of the puller. If it hasn’t popped then leave under tension & tap end with a medium size hammer. Nah ok use the biggest one you have & a smart tap. Don’t go crazy or you’ll bend the puller or crank.

If none of this works leave it on it’s side with some CRC for 3 days & try again.

[Wired1]

I just did one in the weekend on an old TT250 engine I was tearing down for parts. I had the proper puller and soaked it in CRC for three days and it was still f#*ken tight so I put the other end in the vice and wound the F#*ker up. It came off eventually but the clever little puller split the fly wheel end of the crank shaft down the middle like Robin Hood and his arrow trick. Just as well I wanted the cases and not the crank shaft I guess.