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Thread: Highbeam? You wouldn't have guessed it!

  1. #1
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    28th March 2008 - 18:43
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    Highbeam? You wouldn't have guessed it!

    OK, so yesterday my poor RF (as if didnt have enough stuff that was going belly up on her already) had a headlight break down, now most of you would say "boohoo! Circle of life get a new one" which is what I am going to do, but here is something I want to share with you that I found somewhat depressing but at the same time good. Only the low beams failed, and yes as you all guessed when I drive back from HeliPro each evening I have my high beams on full blast. And guess how many people it blinded?!?!? NONE! OK, so I would be driving on the road and at an intersection I would look straight across the road and everyone is staring forward as if my lights are working perfectly, thats great on one hand but really bad on an other, I just cant see far enough with them either on low beam or high beam. Now I was wondering how much are those clear light bulbs cost I think they are called 9300 Kelvin or something... well, you know what I mean, and what can I do about it, your suggestions would be much appreciated. My previous FXR had the same problem, you couldn't even see weather it was the high beam I had on or the low beam. Any suggestions? Do you guys have similar problems on your current/past bikes? Cheers

    Nikolai
    ------------------------------------------------
    Me: Darling, come here... what do you think of this Daytona
    Darling: RF400 is red, it goes faster.

  2. #2
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    Is the headlight adjusted? Maybe it's simply pointing too low.

  3. #3
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    11th June 2005 - 14:42
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    I thought most headlights had only a single bulb to do both low and high beams. If that is the case for the RF400, the fault may be electrical.

    I changed the bulb in my CBR to a halogen (I think) and liked the results. The light was definitely brighter and made me feel more noticeable to others.
    Sleep is for the weak.

  4. #4
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    5th February 2008 - 13:07
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    my lights suck as well. I'm looking at doing an upgrade to H.I.D lights. It's gunna rawk, but is $400 worth..

    DB

  5. #5
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    The bulbs are double filamented like the rear bulbs aren't they?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy View Post
    The bulbs are double filamented like the rear bulbs aren't they?
    mine aren't. They are seperate H1 and H3 units.

    DB

  7. #7
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    If you upgrade the wattage on you headlight, be sure to put a relay in the cuircit
    Nothing worse than haveing your wireing burn out from pulling 35amps when its designed for 15amps
    switch block replacement, wire loom replacement, either or would be more cost than the instilation of a good relay and the right wires.
    Adjustment of the light should be checked, make sure your lense is clean on the inside, and does not have a smoky film over it which can reduce the lighting by 50%, check that your reflector also is in good condition. Reflector? the silver plate behind your bulb that trows the light forward.
    Be sure to use the correct fillimant bulb, not theose cheapfuckers that are out of alignment when manufactured.
    Hella or Bosh bulbs IMHO are best,
    I use a 100/65 bulb and have plenty of light, it is linked to a 35amp Hella fused relay, I used 3mm wire for the power feed.
    The XSEleven's alternator is not the best and only just keeps up with the demand.
    Ensure you have matching equipment fitted for the best results, I have seen a few burnt out wiring looms from too high a powered bulb fitted to stock wireing with no relay. Melted switch blocks become exspensive throw aways even worst when they become obsolete!
    To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.

  8. #8
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    9300 Kelvin is the colour temperature of the lamp, nothing to do with the light fitting as such
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  9. #9
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    shizen, no wonder you have no problem with ya light, 100 watts is quite a bit and I fully agree on the relay idea, I had a 90/110 in an old GPZ 750 I had a while back and that caused some joy until I put a relay in. Boy the highbeam sure lit up the road though you could feel the heat off it from 8 feet infront

    Quote Originally Posted by Subike View Post
    If you upgrade the wattage on you headlight, be sure to put a relay in the cuircit
    Nothing worse than haveing your wireing burn out from pulling 35amps when its designed for 15amps
    switch block replacement, wire loom replacement, either or would be more cost than the instilation of a good relay and the right wires.
    Adjustment of the light should be checked, make sure your lense is clean on the inside, and does not have a smoky film over it which can reduce the lighting by 50%, check that your reflector also is in good condition. Reflector? the silver plate behind your bulb that trows the light forward.
    Be sure to use the correct fillimant bulb, not theose cheapfuckers that are out of alignment when manufactured.
    Hella or Bosh bulbs IMHO are best,
    I use a 100/65 bulb and have plenty of light, it is linked to a 35amp Hella fused relay, I used 3mm wire for the power feed.
    The XSEleven's alternator is not the best and only just keeps up with the demand.
    Ensure you have matching equipment fitted for the best results, I have seen a few burnt out wiring looms from too high a powered bulb fitted to stock wireing with no relay. Melted switch blocks become exspensive throw aways even worst when they become obsolete!

  10. #10
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    5th February 2008 - 13:07
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    Quote Originally Posted by Subike View Post
    If you upgrade the wattage on you headlight, be sure to put a relay in the cuircit
    also make sure you don't melt your headlamp unit.

    DB

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DangerousBastard View Post
    also make sure you don't melt your headlamp unit.

    DB
    Danbed good point DD
    I forgot some of the new ones are plastic!
    To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by niero View Post
    And guess how many people it blinded?!?!? NONE!
    How can you actually tell that it didn't blind them? When I see some knob jockey riding around with high beams, and it blinds me, I don't actually act any different. I just try to not look towards him/her.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by breakaway View Post
    When I see some knob jockey riding around with high beams, and it blinds me, I don't actually act any different. I just try to not look towards him/her.
    You should give the bloke a quick flash, followed by another one if he doesn't get it. It's rare for me to forget and leave my lights on full, but I am very grateful for a, er, reminder, so DO IT please. Everybody aint arseholes, they just forgetful here and there.

    "Always attribute seemingly harmful things to momentary lapses of concentration rather than callous acts of disregard."

    DB

  14. #14
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    28th March 2008 - 18:43
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    Quote Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat View Post
    Is the headlight adjusted? Maybe it's simply pointing too low.
    You see after 1988 (I think. correct me if I am wrong) The lights on alll suzukis are permanently on low beam. When I switch to low beam my lights go out. .

    Quote Originally Posted by DangerousBastard View Post
    my lights suck as well. I'm looking at doing an upgrade to H.I.D lights. It's gunna rawk, but is $400 worth..

    DB
    Holy shit! Man... Anything cheaper than that?!?!? I dont want a turkish prostitute life time membership card, just the light bulb!

    Quote Originally Posted by Subike View Post
    If you upgrade the wattage on you headlight, be sure to put a relay in the cuircit
    Nothing worse than haveing your wireing burn out from pulling 35amps when its designed for 15amps
    switch block replacement, wire loom replacement, either or would be more cost than the instilation of a good relay and the right wires.
    Adjustment of the light should be checked, make sure your lense is clean on the inside, and does not have a smoky film over it which can reduce the lighting by 50%, check that your reflector also is in good condition. Reflector? the silver plate behind your bulb that trows the light forward.
    Be sure to use the correct fillimant bulb, not theose cheapfuckers that are out of alignment when manufactured.
    Hella or Bosh bulbs IMHO are best,
    I use a 100/65 bulb and have plenty of light, it is linked to a 35amp Hella fused relay, I used 3mm wire for the power feed.
    The XSEleven's alternator is not the best and only just keeps up with the demand.
    Ensure you have matching equipment fitted for the best results, I have seen a few burnt out wiring looms from too high a powered bulb fitted to stock wireing with no relay. Melted switch blocks become exspensive throw aways even worst when they become obsolete!
    Hey thanks for the tip, but I thought you can take any lamp with any wattage as long as it can supply the voltage or the ampage (P=IV) So, if your wire is only rated for 15amps (Which is is a shitload, knowing that an ultrabright LED takes up .1 amp to power it self). Anyway, drifting off topic here. Since you cant get the ampage, why not increase the voltage? Will it work?

    O and something funny i saw on the road today. A guy in his over tuned VW Golf stopped at an intersection right across the road from me. While he was listing to his tunes (which was a combination of bass noises) every time the subwoofer made a noise the headlights dimmed and the neons went out. I guess you can figure out yourself what was happening there.

    But thanks a lot for the tip, I will be defiantly looking out for the right bulb.

    Which brings me to my next question, is there a good place in Christchurch anyone could recommend I go, where they wont charge me an arm and a leg (as my kidney has been sold already..*sigh*), and more importaintly know what they are doing. The last thing I need as the man says A melted lightbulb cover and reflector and blown out fuses all over the show.

    Many Thanks

    nikolai
    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    9300 Kelvin is the colour temperature of the lamp, nothing to do with the light fitting as such
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature
    Yeah you are entirely correct friend, but the color is a good indication of brightness, eg. If you compare yellow ordinary light with blue light, chances are the blue light would be brighter as there is more current induced through the bulb, aka the more white/blue the brighter the light. Its like looking at molten metal, you can have red hot metal and you can have white hot metal, white is a lot hotter.

    Quote Originally Posted by rottiguy View Post
    Boy the highbeam sure lit up the road though you could feel the heat off it from 8 feet infront
    Ahhh, nothing compares to fried eggs on the go, litrally!

    Quote Originally Posted by DangerousBastard View Post
    also make sure you don't melt your headlamp unit.

    DB
    Yeah, good point. Thats what I really am scared of buying the wrong bulb.

    Quote Originally Posted by breakaway View Post
    How can you actually tell that it didn't blind them? When I see some knob jockey riding around with high beams, and it blinds me, I don't actually act any different. I just try to not look towards him/her.
    Well, people look at me as I go past (cmon like I am the only one who noticed), and people look directly into the light/bike. I also conducted a test stood 200 meters away from the bike and looked straight at it. I wouldn't have guessed it.



    Cheers to everyone that is helping me out, help is much apreciated
    ------------------------------------------------
    Me: Darling, come here... what do you think of this Daytona
    Darling: RF400 is red, it goes faster.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by niero View Post
    Holy shit! Man... Anything cheaper than that?!?!? I dont want a turkish prostitute life time membership card, just the light bulb!
    haha, is there such a lifetime membership ??

    I will let you know my costs to do this shortly. I have bought a kit to do the high-beam only, as my low beam is poor, but high-beam is RETARDED!!

    edit: btw, HIDs use less power, and the bulb runs cooler than conventional bulbs. Soon we shall see.

    If it works really well, I will do low-beam as well.

    more to follow
    DB

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