Kiwi Biker team huddle! How do I fix this?

[ital916]

Hey guys and gals.

I just pulled apart my first carb and found out why the front cylinder is bung. The float in the front cylinder doesn't work. The first picture shows a piece of wire in front of the metal attached to the float. As can be seen in the second photo of the working rear carb float, the wire is behind the piece of metal, now would I just use a screwdriver and push the wire behind it? The front float is limp whilst the rear float is bouncy.

[Pumba]

I would, no promises that it is going to solve the problem or not cause a bigger one tho

[sugilite:Me]

I'd say if the float was able to fall off, you should be able to get it back on with out resorting to force...maybe a combo of needle nose pliers and a screwdriver.

[jonbuoy]

Can't you push the pin holding the float hinge on out?

[Ixion]

Wot jonboy said. Remove float pivot pin and reassemble. Well, at least you now have a reason why it doesn't run!

And, better still, one that's cheap to fix.

[skidMark]

Can't you push the pin holding the float hinge on out?

What he said... you must push the pin of and the whole folat coming off...then and only then can you get "the spring" bit off.

[skidMark]

Hey guys and gals.

I just pulled apart my first carb and found out why the front cylinder is bung. The float in the front cylinder doesn't work. The first picture shows a piece of wire in front of the metal attached to the float. As can be seen in the second photo of the working rear carb float, the wire is behind the piece of metal, now would I just use a screwdriver and push the wire behind it? The front float is limp whilst the rear float is bouncy.

doesnt matter if it's limp it just has to move.if it was stuck at the top then yes it wouldnt let in fuel
but if grit cannot allow the rubber on the end of the valve to seal, it will not be able to shut the fuel off...thus carb pisses fuel out overflow holes, and sometimes into the air filter/ engine head.

[homer]

Can't you push the pin holding the float hinge on out?

yep you should be able to push the pin out and drop the float out , reposition the spring and push the pin back in .

[skidMark]

Hey guys and gals.

I just pulled apart my first carb and found out why the front cylinder is bung. The float in the front cylinder doesn't work. The first picture shows a piece of wire in front of the metal attached to the float. As can be seen in the second photo of the working rear carb float, the wire is behind the piece of metal, now would I just use a screwdriver and push the wire behind it? The front float is limp whilst the rear float is bouncy.

Um hang on, your first picture is the correct way...the seconds picture is incorrect.

the wire is meant to be on top of the tab...

As shown in the FIRST picture. It is correct..

In the SECOND picture where it is underneath that is incorrect, it would shut off the fuel too soon.thus starving the engine.

It is bouncy because its hitting the valve too soon...thus harder to move as it has run out of travel...

[ital916]

The second one works though? or does the rear carb feed the front cylinder?

[rogson]

I agree with skidmark - first picture is correct assembly.

Assemble them properly and then check that the float heights are correct according to specs in the shop manual - should/will give a distance from bowl flange surface to top of float with needle of valve just touching the seat (i.e. valve just closed - but sprung pin in top of needle not depressed).
Bend the tab(s) as needed to adjust to the spec height.

[skidMark]

The second one works though? or does the rear carb feed the front cylinder?

Pass mate but the second one is definately incorrect.

(worked on carbs like this most days when i was a mechanic)

on chinese rubbish, but yeah zxr as well, infact most carbed bikes have this setup, if not all. so yeah...

fixxy fixxy.

let us know how ya go, you might as well clean them while you have em apart...pull the pins out and valves out of both, take the slide out too then spray crc down all holes, leave it for a few mins....then more crc then blow down all holes with an air compressor, taadaa.