Binned it

[Cruisin' Craig]

i'd go for a weld to fix that, dont trust the metal in a tube kinda stuff.

I would think that if it's just cosmetic damage we're fixing then as far as strength is concerned there's nothing wrong with using tube stuff. I'd agree on welding if it was something structural though for sure.

[Grub]

I don't get it.

Why aren't manufactureres making those covers (both sides) of hi-tech PTFE or similar teflon-based plastics ... and nice and thick. Even a minor drop is going to do that sort of thing. It's so obvious I don't understand why it hasn't happened.

There's some brilliant after-market ones but they're not cheap. Some name with "wood" in it? Not only are they milled from thick alluminium but they have replacement teflon inserts in them ... so why not have them as OEM?

[MaxB]

A while back I punched a crack in the crankcase cover on my Yammy. It was big enough to let oil through. I used an industrial degreasing machine to get the oil out of the casting. The cover was such a poor alloy that it wouldn't take a weld. Then I tried JB weld and it did the job for a while but it wouldn't penetrate into the hairline cracks at either end.

So I ended up paying for a new one - $205 all up through a dealer, airfreighted from Japan in 3 days.

[xwhatsit]

I don't get it.

Why aren't manufactureres making those covers (both sides) of hi-tech PTFE or similar teflon-based plastics ... and nice and thick. Even a minor drop is going to do that sort of thing. It's so obvious I don't understand why it hasn't happened.

There's some brilliant after-market ones but they're not cheap. Some name with "wood" in it? Not only are they milled from thick alluminium but they have replacement teflon inserts in them ... so why not have them as OEM?

That'd be Woodcraft. Not cheap though. They make lovely clip-ons too.

It's the curse of a multi, I suppose -- big, wide engine. Not only makes it handle like poo and bulky ergonomics, but if you drop it it'll cause big trouble.

I liked Honda's solution with the CBX1000 -- build a jackshaft, then put the flywheel, alternator (clutch too?) behind the cylinders instead of on the end of the crank. Made for a 6-cylinder engine about the same width as the CB750 4-cylinder.

[Cuban]

yeah, there is a hole right throught the cover unfortunately, so repair or replace is the go. Hopefully someone will wreck one on TMe soon (yeah right!)
getting ahold of the dealer tomo to suss a replacement

[The Pastor]

I would think that if it's just cosmetic damage we're fixing then as far as strength is concerned there's nothing wrong with using tube stuff. I'd agree on welding if it was something structural though for sure.

is there no hole in it?

[Cuban]

hole in it, down the bottom of the road rash

[MaxB]

I don't get it.

Why aren't manufactureres making those covers (both sides) of hi-tech PTFE or similar teflon-based plastics ... and nice and thick. Even a minor drop is going to do that sort of thing. It's so obvious I don't understand why it hasn't happened.

There's some brilliant after-market ones but they're not cheap. Some name with "wood" in it? Not only are they milled from thick alluminium but they have replacement teflon inserts in them ... so why not have them as OEM?

I think it is to do with cost. A lot of automotive covers and such are made by pressure die casting mass production methods using one hit alloys. A bit of basic machining and tidying up later and bingo you have a part. They produce a lot of product for the outlay.

Forged or machined from solid using hi spec alloy would be better but I suspect they would be too expensive.

Engine bars go a long way to reducing the damage anyway.