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Thread: What tyre for Tarawera?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    30th March 2007 - 18:18
    Bike
    KLR650 WR450
    Location
    Kapiti
    Posts
    2,665
    anyone used BFGoodrich Crossengo's

    any opinions?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    4th April 2008 - 19:08
    Bike
    '07 KTM exc200
    Location
    auckland
    Posts
    759

    BFG and other knobbly stuff

    Haven't done it yet but I think (from reading reports) T100 is mainly softish volanic ash, and gets a bit whooped out/chopped up, but has some gravel?? I spent my early riding in and around Turangi still volcanic plateau but a lot of hard pumice down there.

    Just tried a couple of cheapies. Kenda Millville (Supposedly directional - soft/intermediate) which has suffered badly with knobs torn off, parts of tyre has 5 or six in a row gone in about 25hrs use.

    Before that had tried Crossengo which lasted better. Hard to judge performance difference between the two.

    Best tyre recently was Pirelli Extra. MX training tyre (mid) but harder compound so lasted well and seemed to perform well espec when new. Ran this tyre at 8psi for Paparimu trail ride (v v slippery) and cords came apart from inside of tyre though. Tube had bad snake bite. Might try a couple of MT32s next.

    Didn't think much of the S12. Prob best tyre for soft and sand but no good on hard. Chunked badly on gravel. Have noticed new S12s (Thailand) seem to have a harder case than previous made in Spain(?) jobs. I think S12's flexy case is big part of why so good in the soft. Note rotated side knob on S12 front. Good for penetration on soft ground but I reckon no turning grip on harder stuff. I'm a bit dubious about S12 rears on hard wet clay (plenty of that about in 'soft' NZ winter riding). Not enough contact area with those skinny wide spaced knobs. Current front is Michellin MS3 which I really like. Front before was MH2 (Med/Hard) which often seemed to wash out a lot when cornering.

    When comparing tread patterns at shop I use two fingers between knobs (rears). More space = better mud clearing. Less space and bigger knobs = more ground contact on harder surface. The other thing to remember is a so called 'hard' tyre actually should be of softer compound for better bite. 'Soft' tyre is harder compound to penetrate soft ground.

    Uh oh. sorry for the wordy post, but tyres are an interesting/important subject.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    16th September 2006 - 21:54
    Bike
    VFR800,crf250,+ Lotabits
    Location
    Westport SI
    Posts
    384

    turning the tyre

    Now here's a question I wondering if you tyre techs can tell me - can i turn the tyre round on the wheel so all the worn edges of the knobs are facing backwards and i've got the nice sharp little unworn edges facing the front?

    I'm presently running a S12, which has got a bit worn over the last few rides, and rather than buy a new tyre as all the knobs are basically intact was thinking I can save some dosh here by just turning the tyre round.

    You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape.
    If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
    If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
    And now a third thing a bloody big gun to shoot theives with!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    4th April 2008 - 19:08
    Bike
    '07 KTM exc200
    Location
    auckland
    Posts
    759

    reverse-a-tire

    Yeah, guys do reverse tires. I've never done it because mine always seem pretty worn on the braking (back) edge of the knob as well. The odd tire has one way tread pattern like M12(?) rear - has a paddle shape.

    I reckon one to watch for wear are the knobs on rows at 10 to 2 position on your front tire (edge that faces inward) as this knob does most of the work on hard turning. Once that edge starts to round off, front starts to push. Good front tires keep you upright.

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