Headlight bulb

**CB ARGH** · 18th August 2008, 17:10

Hey guys,

The headlight bulb has blown on the MC22, yay. I rung around a few bike shops and they wanted in excess of $50 for just one bulb, however at Repco the bulbs from a good brand are only $14.

Does anybody know where to get bulbs for cheap?

Heres some info on the bulb if you can help me:

Stanley Halogen 14-0180 12V60/35W

Thanks heaps!

**The Stranger:Me** · 18th August 2008, 17:13

Originally Posted by CB ARGH

Hey guys,

The headlight bulb has blown on the MC22, yay. I rung around a few bike shops and they wanted in excess of $50 for just one bulb, however at Repco the bulbs from a good brand are only $14.

Does anybody know where to get bulbs for cheap?

Heres some info on the bulb if you can help me:

Stanley Halogen 14-0180 12V60/35W

Thanks heaps!

Repco maybe?
Do I win?

**CookMySock** · 18th August 2008, 17:18

sup clingy, nearly didnt recognise ya. Just take it into repco and say "wunna these please, and can ya put it on yer account and get me trade price kthx coz I'm a brokeass teenager".

edit: I wonder if repco would give all kiwibikers a trade price somehow... I might ask them and see if this is doable. Just have to mention "kiwibiker account" but cant actually book anything up. Will report back!

Steve

**CB ARGH** · 18th August 2008, 17:24

Don't think that will work DB!

With accounts you need I.D or a password, or alternatively get to know the staff so you don't have to use either each time.

I took the bulb into Repco and they had nothing, I've looked through the Narva and Phillips books and the closest is 35/35W.

Dam.

**Badjelly** · 18th August 2008, 17:30

Originally Posted by CB ARGH

Stanley Halogen 14-0180 12V60/35W

Originally Posted by CB ARGH

I took the bulb into Repco and they had nothing, I've looked through the Narva and Phillips books and the closest is 35/35W.

It's unusual to have such a large difference between the power of low and high beam. Are you sure it really is 60/35? And if it is, do you think your electrical system could cope with, say, 60/55?

**CB ARGH** · 18th August 2008, 17:33

Originally Posted by Badjelly

It's unusual to have such a large difference between the power of low and high beam. Are you sure it really is 60/35? And if it is, do you think your electrical system could cope with, say, 60/55?

Yeah it's definately 60/35W... There's no other accessories like heated grips or anything so I can imagine it could handle a more powerful bulb... however it has two headlights...

not sure haha.

**CookMySock** · 18th August 2008, 18:57

Originally Posted by Badjelly

It's unusual to have such a large difference between the power of low and high beam.

I used to use 100/55W bulbs. They were awesome.

Steve

**FROSTY:Me** · 18th August 2008, 19:01

Dude from memory its not the wattage thats the issue--its the fittings on the base of the bulb.
You need to be really carefull not to go for too high a wattage--2 reasons -1) too much draw on the charging system and 2) literally melting the plastic headlight lenses
Im prety sure the bulb is a 60/55 not a 60/35

**CB ARGH** · 18th August 2008, 19:30

Originally Posted by FROSTY

Dude from memory its not the wattage thats the issue--its the fittings on the base of the bulb.
You need to be really carefull not to go for too high a wattage--2 reasons -1) too much draw on the charging system and 2) literally melting the plastic headlight lenses
Im prety sure the bulb is a 60/55 not a 60/35

Cheers Frosty,

The bulb, and even the fitting that it goes into says...

001-5324
12V60/35W-1.7W KAZ
MC27

Weird stuff eh...

Thanks for the help guys!

**Squiggles** · 18th August 2008, 19:50

Google it, i found this: http://www.cr-x.org/cbr250/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=49701

but i bet others have suggested good alternatives that wont much up the headlights etc

**CookMySock** · 19th August 2008, 09:10

Frosty is right. But it seems it is something strange called a H4R fitting.. The site mentioned above says about "split pins" needed to convert to H4 (very commonly available) so it seems to me the conversion is trivial.

Two issues, 1, getting a H4 bulb into a H4R headlamp unit, and 2, not overheating the headlamp unit or switchgear and melting it.

See if someone has an H4 lamp you can have for free (there will be one lying around somewhere) and try to find out how to fit it to your H4R headlamp unit.

If you have to fit a bulb that is 10 watts or so larger, quite likely that wont melt everything, but if you use a relay then it will supply full heat to the unit, maybe not what you need.

If the headlamp switch is not running warm whatsoever then quite likely an extra 20 percent current wont hurt it.

Steve

**FROSTY:Me** · 19th August 2008, 09:41

An extra 10 amps wont hurt matters
What Ive done in the past is take a buggered standard H4 bulb and modify it to fit the fitings. Usually done by trimming the locating pins.

you need to trim the pins so that the bulb fits in in its normal position

**imdying** · 19th August 2008, 11:02

An extra 10A isn't a good thing, and could easily overload lightweight switch gear. An extra 10W on the other hand, is nothing to get upset over.

**more_fasterer** · 19th August 2008, 12:21

Originally Posted by FROSTY

An extra 10 amps wont hurt matters
What Ive done in the past is take a buggered standard H4 bulb and modify it to fit the fitings. Usually done by trimming the locating pins.

you need to trim the pins so that the bulb fits in in its normal position

This works. Taken from another post of mine yesterday for the same thing:

"Rotate the bulb so that one tab slots in correctly, the biggest tab can be bent back so that about half of it fits in another slot. The 3rd tab will need to be bent away from the lens and then the tip bent back over so it just grabs the outside of the holder.

Use the little circle in the centre of the lens to line up the bulb."

I've done this with H4 60/55W bulbs on both my CBR250 & my VFR400, and never had any issues with the housing or wiring.