I'm defiantly a noobie when it comes to bikes but there is one more thing I'd add to WW's very good advice about cornering - accelerate through the corner. This means you must do most if not all of the braking before the corner and then once into the corner you get on the gas. How much gas depends on experience and desired effect. If you are still getting use gravel riding then gently on the gas or if you want to power slide around the corner give it a controlled fist full.The point of accelerating is that is makes the rear shock/wheel do the work and unloads the forks/front wheel. The front tracks much better and it is much easier to control a rear wheel slide than a front if things get interesting.
It is easiest to feel this effect and get use to it on corners around 50-60kph. When corners are too tight then the bikes doesn't react quick enough for the rider to feel the full effect. At high speed corners you don't need the effect quite so much so again don't feel it. The rainbow road between Hanmer and the Gorge is a really good place to try this out. Just remember to slow down again between the Gorge and St Arnuad less you end up in a ditch - DAMHIK.
Another tip - when things get slippery and the wheels are slipping (braking or acceleration) the bike will always try to go to the lowest point of the track in a sideways direction. Easy solution is to ride in the bottom of the ruts unless you really don't want to be cause of deep water, ruts to deep etc. Same applies to traversing sideways across slopes if a wheel slides it will go down hill. Solution (if possible) is to go directly up/down the slope and then traverse along the flatter areas at the top/bottom.
Lastly if things do get slippery (not bumpy) - stand up. I've only just learnt this one in the last year or so but have noticed it can be really beneficial. Best place to realise the benefit is when riding along long shallow slippery ruts. If sitting down it is hard to keep the bike going in a dead straight line and not bounce of the side of the rut. This means most people slow down and fight the bike harder to keep in a straight line. If you stand up and maintain a bit of speed it is much easier to keep control. By standing up if the bike gets a bit off line you can lean the bike (spread you knees and lean on the bars - counter steering in a way) to keep things pointing in the right direction. If this is not comfortable the other option is to sit down and stick one leg out sideways and use it for balance - standing up is much better though.
My avatar pic was taken after I had just ridden about 500m up a steep gravel road covered in snow at around 10kph with the rear wheel spinning most of the way. By standing up I could keep control right down to less than walking pace till the bike got traction and was able to pic up speed again. Was a very satisfying experience getting up that slope with almost no effort from myself.
Opps this post got a little longHope it helps.
Cheers R
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
Good idea this, I don't know that I have a lot to contribute in written form but wonder whether we (collectively) should take the opportunity to consider what help we give to new riders.
Maybe new riders need to stick their hands up and say "I need help here" rather than stoically trying to keep up.
I am loath to start talking about mentoring as that always seems to require obligation and red tape on the mentors part and I certainly haven't got time for that, I do however have time for spending 30 minutes showing someone the basics during a day ride if they ask.
So, my helpful tip is......ask for help!
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
So how the hell do I get through the really thick heavy metal that has the front end of my bike flapping around like a stunned mullet. Do I just gas it, hold on & pray, Will lowering pressure make a lot of difference, will going to a more radical tyre [EO7 currently] help.
I must admit I dont normally lower air pressure as I think I will bugger rims with the short travel suspension that continually bottoms out & I have fitted Racetech springs etc
eh? You're not going fast are you ? Just give it rings, and when you fall off, laugh! It's hilarious!
Steve
"I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
"read what Steve says. He's right."
"What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
"I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
"Wow, Great advise there DB."
WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.
30/34 . I always thought pressure affected grip/traction & that is not the problem , more directional control/stability would be nice . The front pushes & feels like it wants to tuck under if you know what I mean
Will standing help. I think while this may raise the overall mass , because your weight goes directly onto the pegs not the seat it does reduce the cog of the bike & gives it more stability, I think that is what Young1 was getting at
Let us know when you next fall off DB , we could all do with a good laugh
Last edited by cooneyr; 3rd September 2008 at 13:05. Reason: F*%k english
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
I have found with the Tenere being front heavy,that bum just off the seat,knees bent and sort of pulling back/shifting weight backwards seems to help as it's taking a bit of my weight of the front end.
I also suggest,for those that have bikes they're not scared of dropping etc,taking them out in forestry areas and riding the tracks and trails there as it provides a lot of the techniques that's explained here.
That's basically how I've learned to ride my tank and learn to manhandle it through tracks that most enduro riders would do in their sleep.
Nevermind the Bollocks
Burst of throttle to make the front end light (forks extended and at their most supple) and push it through the loose material with some positive force, shifts the weight to the rear wheel/shock which is still on the firm stuff. Let the front flap, the bike is being held steady by the driving rear end.
When the front is through, ease off the throttle as the back comes through, the weight transfers to the front which is now on the firm stuff.
Cheers,
Colin
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
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