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Thread: Exhaust Manifold protectant

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by vifferman
    Also, there are places like HPC that do high-temp coatings; you take the bits in, and they'll sandblast and coat them for you. They have good reviews for longevity, but the application can be a bit variable depending on how much care they take.

    It more depends on the condition of the pipes rather than their workmanship,the coating goes inside and out,damaged pipes can be written off after cleaning,they can get too thin.I had my pipes done on the XLV750,they were perfect...but they prefer not to do used exhausts and should warn you before they start that it might not be satisfactory.
    In and out of jobs, running free
    Waging war with society

  2. #17
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by WanaGo
    So somewhere like Repco or supercheap auto would have that stuff?
    Yeah deal to it with a wire brush then hit it with some "Rust Inhibiter" I think its called. Comes from any auto shop in a bottle/tin with a green & black label and the small one only costs $15. Not only does it do a good job of removing rust, it also kills and prevents it too. Then hose it off and paint.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    25th July 2003 - 19:20
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    Just went into super cheap, and they had stuff called 'rust converter' in a small bottle, worth about $15 I think, probably the stuff you are talking about. They also had some paint that said it was for manifolds and exhausts and bbq's and stuff like that. 1500 Degree F, and 815 Degree C. Would a dose of wire brush, followed by rust converter then with a paint with that paint do the trick you think? I couldnt see the VHT 1300, maybe that is in repco.

    EDIT: Just rang repco, they have the VHT 1300, and VHT Flameproof too. Rust converter stuff is $9 for a small bottle.

    Cheers
    WanaGo

  4. #19
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    I'm totally with Paul in NZ on this... if you apply it right!

    otherwise it wall fall off in 5 minutes... PREPARATION! CLEAN!!!!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    25th July 2003 - 19:20
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    yup I agree too, but was more wondering if it was worth putting on the rust converter stuff aswell, before the final sanding and the cleaning and the paint etc.

    And what is better, VHT 1300, or VHT Flameproof, or some Motorguard (or something similar to that name) 1500 from supercheap Auto.
    ie 1500 compared to 1300... (or is it 1300 Degrees Celcius, rather than 1500 Fareinheit)

    Cheers
    WanaGo

  6. #21
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    20th November 2002 - 11:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by WanaGo
    Rust converter stuff is $9 for a small bottle.
    But will it stand the heat?

  7. #22
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    24th June 2004 - 17:27
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    Buy the highest heat rating you can get in a name brand. ie Duplicolour or VHT. DON'T use one free with every grandfather clock generic stuff. It's shite

  8. #23
    Join Date
    25th July 2003 - 19:20
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    The rust converter is just something you apply, then wash off, or sand off or whatever. You dont leave it on, like you still paint it etc.
    That is what I gathered from when I looked at the bottle.

    Sounds like I have it sussed now. Ill give it a go in the next little while.

    Thanks heaps for all the help everyone. :spudwave:

    Regards

    WanaGo

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