Trail size CHAIN TOOL?

[Alpha Solo]

Can anyone recommend a chain tool that is small enough to take in a tool roll?

I'm looking for one one that breaks chain links and does 'em up again.

Cheers in advance.

[cooneyr]

For clip links you almost need two tools, one to split the chain and one to help push the clip link side plate on enough to put the clip on. I carry two tools very similar to those in the pics below. You don't have to have the side link pusher but it does make life much easier. Riveted links are different - a single tool will generally do it all (break, put on side plate and rivet) but they are generally more costly and clip links are easier to get your hands on.

Breaker


Side link "pusher" (I made one of these out of a bit of angle steel and a 12mm bolt)


Cheers R

[Alpha Solo]

Thanks Ryan,

I am in the garage making some up now!

[soundbeltfarm]

in one of the off road mags it has a little tip for chains and it is the plate that goes over the pins make the holes a fraction bigger so it is alot easier to fit and once you out of the bush fix it properly with the right sized plate.

[Padmei]

As a related issue someone once mentioned a front deraileur on a KLR would be a good thing so you could have 2 front sprockets & be able to change them depending on if you were riding highway or dirt track.

Now if you could weld a smaller front sprocket with a spacer to the existing one on the countershaftthing so that you could undo the chain & change the gearing when arriving at an offroad destination after a 200km road trip.

Would this work? If not why not?

Sideways tolerance of chain?
Chain slack? Chain tensioner like MTB?
Obviously space between frame & wheel...

[Skinny_Birdman]

On serious adventure rides I carry a breaker similar to the one in cooneyr's first pic, and an old side plate and a small pair of vice grips to join the chain. The old side plate has slightly over-bored holes so that it fits loosely over the pins. I put the new side plate on, put the old one on top, and then can get an even squeeze on the link with the vice grips. Once the link is squeezed up I take the old plate off and the clip goes on easily. I like to be prepared, as I have been caught out once before, eh Transalper?

[cooneyr]

....old side plate and a small pair of vice grips.....

Sounds like a good plan instead of the side plate "pusher". Other way to do it would be to have a pair of needle nose vicies but these would weigh and take up just as much space as the pusher I suspect.

...2 front sprockets & be able to change them depending on if you were riding highway or dirt track....

..weld a smaller front sprocket with a spacer to the existing one ....

Sideways tolerance of chain?
Chain slack? Chain tensioner like MTB?
Obviously space between frame & wheel...

I think you answered your own question - chain alignment and the space between the frame and chain. Seems to me that simply carrying a second smaller sprocket (loose) and taking 5mins to change it would be a better idea. It would take almost no more work than switching the chain from one sprocket to the other sprocket that is welded on. On the DR (sorry never had a good look at this part of the KLR) there is three bolts to remove the cover, loosen the rear axle an loosen the chain tension, three bolts to remove the sprocket and reverse. Unless you have a very long chain (i.e. couple of links over the recommended) or your chain is very flogged out, there should be enough movement in the chain tensioner to be able to run one tooth smaller front and possibly even two teeth smaller.

Couple of things about chains. They really really don't like being out of alignment. It is really hard on the pins, bushes, and side plates (inner ones that rotate about the pins). If they are out of line enough, almost all of the load is transmitted down one side (side plates carry the load) of the chain i.e. it would be the same as running a chain of half the strength in alignment. Second thing is that Pushy type chain tensioners (two sprockets in rear derailleur) suck heaps of power as the chain has to curve twice more. If you ride a pushy with and without it is a noticeable difference. Also the extra two curves in the chain will significantly increase chain wear as chain primerially wears going around corners. I'm pretty certain this is why there are not automatic chain tensioners on motor bikes.

Cheers R

[Phreaky Phil]

Ballards in Aust. used to have a neat little chain breaker.

[cooneyr]

Ballards in Aust. used to have a neat little chain breaker.

It be on this page for those that are interested. Will only do up to 520 chain though so cant be used on DR650's (with stock 525 chain size).

Cheers R