Removal of air filter on sv1000S?

[Phoenix]

what would the affect of having no air filter on my SV1KS? would I get more horsepower? and would it ultimately damage the bike?

[FROSTY:Me]

I doubt you'd notice bugger all difference and Id hesitate to suggest it given the shite your engine sucks up. Now fitting a BMC filter then setting the ems to suit might help though

[Phoenix]

must be my imagination then, Im sure the bike pulled harder. Putting it back on though as its there for a reason, hence being a filter. what is ems, and how do you adjust it. you rate BMC over DNA filters?

[xwhatsit]

must be my imagination then, Im sure the bike pulled harder.

Will be your imagination -- same as people putting K&N `high flow' filters on. It screws the carburretion/injection slightly, creating a bit of a flat spot at a certain point. Then when the power comes back on (how it normally is), you get a great rush and you feel like you've got a racebike engine.

Nothing like a lumpy, rough torque curve to make your bike feel fast.

[imdying]

must be my imagination then, Im sure the bike pulled harder. Putting it back on though as its there for a reason, hence being a filter. what is ems, and how do you adjust it. you rate BMC over DNA filters?

It didn't, it just sounded like it did. The factory filter will flow all the air you need, just use that. If you like a noisy induction system, pull the snorkel off of the front of the airbox... it won't make any difference to the way the bike runs, but it'll make it sound a bit noisier. Some people like it, some don't... sounds good with some mufflers, but not with others. Literally a 5 minute job to try it though.

To adjust your engine management system, you'll either need to take it to someone with a TEKA tuner, or you'll need to fit a PCIII and have a custom map made for it. Neither option is always better, it depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

I'm guessing that you have an interest in making your SV1000 faster. The most cost effective modifications you can make would be:
- 42 tooth rear sprocket; this will fit with the factory chain
- 16 tooth front sprocket; combine this with the rear one if you really want some low down punch
- Have the ECU TEKA tuned to remove the off 5% TPS / 3000ish RPM lean spot

It'll feel considerably more aggressive for less than $150.

If it's a road bike, bear in mind that it's a lot faster than it feels... the torque curve is very flat, so you're often going quicker than you expect.

[FJRider]

what would the affect of having no air filter on my SV1KS? would I get more horsepower? and would it ultimately damage the bike?

Removing the filter, or using an aftermarket filter, changes the fuel/air mixture... effectively letting more air in, to the same amount of fuel. Thus a slightly leaner mixture. You figure out what THAT does...
Suppliers of aftermarket filters, often reccomend re-jetting afterwards.
Have you cleaned your air filter, and seen what wasn't getting in. Remove the filter and... it WILL get in...

[Phoenix]

taking the snorkel off, would require cutting it off wouldnt it, or do you mean take the whole filter box cover off

[imdying]

I would have mentioned if you needed to cut it off. 5 minute job, totally reversible. It's worth trying even if it's just to say you have. I liked it with my Micron carbons, but my current mufflers sound better with it in (naturally the two sounds resonate together), so YMMV, but it's free to try.

[dipshit]

would it ultimately damage the bike?

Absolutely it would.

It's funny how people get so concerned over what oil they use and how often they change it - when one of the biggest factors that determine the usable life of an engine is the quality and condition of the air filter.

Even people that fit aftermarket "high-flow" air filters could be shortening the life of their engines.

[dipshit]

taking the snorkel off, would require cutting it off wouldnt it

The snorkel just pulls out.

[Pumba]

taking the snorkel off, would require cutting it off wouldnt it, or do you mean take the whole filter box cover off

Grab hold of said snorkel and pull, it will then seperate from the air box lid piece of piss.

IMHO the best mod I ever did to my SV was drop a tooth off the front sprocket, it was a cheap mod (untill I got sick of the speedo being out and brought a speedo healer) and altered the power delivery very much to my likeing.

[slimjim]

gee's wayne noooo filter....faaaaaar out....think what dirt ,sand, particules is going to do to the motor........cause its gona happen....

[imdying]

Removing the filter, or using an aftermarket filter, changes the fuel/air mixture... effectively letting more air in, to the same amount of fuel. Thus a slightly leaner mixture. You figure out what THAT does...

Won't do anything to this bike, maybe add a foot pound somewhere, but nothing you'd notice.

Suppliers of aftermarket filters, often reccomend re-jetting afterwards.

It's a 32bit Denso ECU with twin 54mm throttle bodies, it can't be jetted If it was a carb'd two stroke, then use you'd be well advised to rejet it.

Even people that fit aftermarket "high-flow" air filters could be shortening the life of their engines.

Yes, I'd recommend the factory unit... bit hypocritical given that mine has a K&N, but $40 for a reusable filter, I wasn't saying no :blush:

[Morcs]

It didn't, it just sounded like it did. The factory filter will flow all the air you need, just use that. If you like a noisy induction system, pull the snorkel off of the front of the airbox... it won't make any difference to the way the bike runs, but it'll make it sound a bit noisier. Some people like it, some don't... sounds good with some mufflers, but not with others. Literally a 5 minute job to try it though.

To adjust your engine management system, you'll either need to take it to someone with a TEKA tuner, or you'll need to fit a PCIII and have a custom map made for it. Neither option is always better, it depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

I'm guessing that you have an interest in making your SV1000 faster. The most cost effective modifications you can make would be:
- 42 tooth rear sprocket; this will fit with the factory chain
- 16 tooth front sprocket; combine this with the rear one if you really want some low down punch
- Have the ECU TEKA tuned to remove the off 5% TPS / 3000ish RPM lean spot

It'll feel considerably more aggressive for less than $150.

If it's a road bike, bear in mind that it's a lot faster than it feels... the torque curve is very flat, so you're often going quicker than you expect.

needs a TL motor...

[imdying]

needs a TL motor...

Not a straight swap, but the SV could probably cope with the deficiencies in the TLs torque curve a lot better than the poor old TLs chassis can. Better off aiming for the peak HP of the TLR, and the fat torque curve of the SV by putting a 2mm oversize in it, and some cams with adjustable gears. All available from Spears.