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Thread: Dunlod 220's ahhhhhhhhhh

  1. #16
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    1st September 2004 - 12:38
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    Mate I told you what the problem is. It's all those bloody wheelies (performed under controlled conditions on a private road- of course). That and painting black lines when you exit corners.
    I had a D220 on my FZR. Liked it at first but it soon became slippery and I think the D208 that's on there now will actually last longer. I suspect that the D220 has a problem dealing with hard* riding. It's probably fine for touring.

    I hear Pilot Powers grip and last well.

    * Disclaimer: my definition of 'hard riding' would relate to moderately quick. It is not a reference to any sexual act- so don't even start...

  2. #17
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    22nd October 2002 - 11:00
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    Could well do...

    Whilst your bike is lighter than mine ('bird =220kg's), it's not static weight that counts but velocity x weight (mass). Lower pressures will make the problem show up more readily if the sidewalls have a bit of flex. Recommended pressures for the 'bird are 42 psi front/rear and I can feel it start to move around with 3psi less.

    The pic is of my old D220 front and you can see distinct flats on the side.
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  3. #18
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    3rd January 2005 - 11:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird
    I had D220's on the Blackbird but it was the front which wore out fast with hight wear rates on the sides. This was almost certainly caused due to the tyre casing deflecting. They simply weren't up to a bike like the 'bird.

    What sort of Azaros are you using? The first set I had were a great tyre up to 4000 k's but am now experiencing a similar front tyre wear, albeit significantly less than with the Dunlops. Avon now make a special Azaro for big, fast bikes, AV45-ST/AV46-ST "B" (Load Rating "B"), is this what you have? They have a more rigid casing construction. I'll be buying a set for the Southern Cross ride.

    Geoff
    Sorry chaps, I should have noted that.

    Then Bugger, I went down stairs to the bike and checked, and then the 'former WMC hippy' rang as i walked back in the door and now I can't remember the front's ratings.

    However the models as recommended by Kerry Motohaus are indeed an AV46-ST "B" on the rear and as I do ride the beastie pretty hard out, went for the sports compound on the front AV49-SP.

    The Trophy is also fitted with Ohins Shock and fork springs plus Gold valve cartridge emulators. I also run a fair bit of pre-load, both ends and have installed adjustable drop links and have triangulated the rear of the bike up quite high.

    It is one of the smoothest, sweetest handling big bikes anyway, and at the moment it just feels glued to the road.

    chz
    bd

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zapf
    Big Dave,
    did your "fluffed up" occure on the front or the rear?

    and yes they are pealing back too... (wonder if that is to do with me braking while cornering... )
    Edges of the rear, leading edge of tread down to case, trailing edge of tread had a large 'lip' of rubber - 5-10mm.
    Caused by very heavy bike with 140 ponies being hammered out of corners I suspect.

    I like the way the Dunlops hung on till they got to that point - 4500 to 5000km.

    I absolutely shagged a sports compond rear metzler mentioned (same thing - fluffed it useless) in one pass of Wioeka (sorry have trouble saying it let alone spell it) gorge too - but damn it was fun!

    bd

  5. #20
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    16th September 2004 - 16:48
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    Had the same problem with my TT Dunlops (similar tread pattern too!), only did it on one set - when i pointed it out to a make of mine who know shitloads more than me bout tyres he said that was caused by rapid changes in temp in the tyre.
    Eg hot to cold (like ridding then it suddenly downpours etc), or cold to hot. As the pressure in the tyre and the torque and energy's involved on the surface cause the rubber to become brittle.
    Actually made a little sense too as i was doing alot of winter touring at the time.
    He also mentioned the rubber perises fast if the bike sits outsite (i e not ridden) for too long.
    Dunlops are ok tyres, good if you want long life. But probably better to go for a better tyre to be safe
    Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyB
    Mate I told you what the problem is. It's all those bloody wheelies and painting black lines when you exit corners.
    yeah ya did say that, but when exiting the bike is usually on a lean still so the damage wouldent be center..... I did post a similer thread to this one when I noticed the area between the center and outer side was comming off in chunks and put that down to nailing it out a bit hard.

    As for the wheelie's...... I was woundering that was a part in the wear patten so heres a question for
    Quote Originally Posted by DEATH_INC.
    ....2300k's (which is good for me)and even the front hasn't worn bugger all.....
    death..... how much do ya reckon the rear lights up when powering it up on one wheel????? I mean like on a cold tyre it would have to loose a bit of traction aye..... or maybe not :unsure:
    ps: you are used to muilties.... so a twin may act differant... or not :spudwhat:
    cheers DD
    (Definately Dodgy)



  7. #22
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    27th July 2004 - 00:36
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    My dud..lops...
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dangerous
    yeah ya did say that, but when exiting the bike is usually on a lean still so the damage wouldent be center..... I did post a similer thread to this one when I noticed the area between the center and outer side was comming off in chunks and put that down to nailing it out a bit hard.

    As for the wheelie's...... I was woundering that was a part in the wear patten so heres a question for
    death..... how much do ya reckon the rear lights up when powering it up on one wheel????? I mean like on a cold tyre it would have to loose a bit of traction aye..... or maybe not :unsure:
    ps: you are used to muilties.... so a twin may act differant... or not :spudwhat:
    From scientific type articles I've read before, during acceleration and deceleration there is always some degree of slip. There has to be as for the bike to accelerate the tyre has to be going faster than the road, vice versa for braking, at least thats what I've read. Apparantly the same when leaning, always a slight 'loss of traction' involved. Bear in mind this loss of traction is so slight, you don't notice it, but its what causes your tyres to get chewed up.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zapf
    My dud..lops...
    What air pressures you running, Zapf?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zapf
    My dud..lops...
    I'm thinking its the tread patten that has that happening.... I use a 208 (softer than 220) on the frount and it works and looks great after 5000k's
    I see that the tyres have changed names and pattens again, maybe Dunlop were on to this.
    cheers DD
    (Definately Dodgy)



  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zapf
    My dud..lops...
    My D208 rear does similar things ie: the trailing edge of the tread block tapering down and the leading edge bunching up to form a ridge. I get the rough orange peel look too, but usually in lines across the tyre so they look more like rows of miniature sand dunes. I was getting balls and ropes of rubber but that has toned down since I upped the compression damping.

    After what Avgas said, I guess pulling wheelies on cold tyres must contribute to the flat spot Dangerous has. Plus aren't twins supposed to be a bit harder on their tyres, or is it the other way around :unsure:

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by gav
    What air pressures you running, Zapf?
    The Dunlop 208 I had on the rear of my RF900 started to rough up at the edges like that when I was running 36 psi (Suzuki recommendation). Dunlop recommended up to 42 psi on their fitment guide so I went up to 40 psi and the problem went away mostly.

    I recently changed the tyre to a D220 after the D208 squared off (too much commuting), however I had put about 7000km on it by then and they were on the bike when I bought it. The front D208 is due for a change and it has worn a bit more on the sides than the centre but not significantly.

    The RF900 isn't a light bike and I often ride two-up so I don't think the Dunlops have done badly.

  13. #28
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    Z6's are the dog's bollocks. Used to use Avon ST45/46. They felt good at first, but didn't inspire confidence in the wet. I'd rate the Z6 up with Diablos so far.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lou Girardin
    Z6's are the dog's bollocks. I'd rate the Z6 up with Diablos so far.
    Glad you think so cos today I through one on th rear, was thinking of the 208 replacment but I want to try these Metzlers out.... they were great on the Guzzi so hears hopeing aye
    cheers DD
    (Definately Dodgy)



  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by gav
    What air pressures you running, Zapf?
    was running what Suzi recommended. 33psi front and like 36 /38 rear. Have since upped the front to 36psi. I might bring up the rear as well from reading ppl's experience

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