I used a lighter and a plastic coat hanger last time I attempted to weld something...
It failed.
Well, that was easier thna I expected.
I decided to give it a try , using the Virago side cover , which badly cracked from one of the mounting lugs when it went for a little ride on its own.
Used my solder gun with the funny spade shaped bit thing that I always wondered what it was for. And a plastic coat hanger.
I'd call it more plastic stitching that welding.
Basically I just melted each side of the break to about half thickness, on the 'inside' (the side you don't see) , then smoodged them together and added coathanger filler to make the plastic thicker than it was (compensating for the fact that I hadnt gone full thickness).
Then turned it over and did somewhat similar on the 'good' side, but more lightly and no filler rod. And smoodged it nicely so it was smooth and even. Then sanded it down.
Looks OK, and some flexing and prying suggests it is at least as strong as the original
Then tried the same thing on an RZ side panel that had the same problem. Also a good result.
Admittedly these were cracks rather than broken off pieces, so I had no need to jig the pieces together.
But, all in all, I'm quite chuffed for a first attempt.
I still haven't been able to find any MEK though, neither Ripco nor Supacrap stock it here. I'll try one of the specialist paint places , failing that see if I can get some nail polish remover. That's about 20% MEK , and the rest mainly acetone, which is Methyl methy ketone (ie one less CH2 unit). And a bit of methyl butyl ketone. Or was when I used to mix it up.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Having done quite a bit of research over the last few day's on the best way to approach this, the general concensus was to basically create liquid plastic to use for the underside of the joint.Not having a clue how to achieve this has been bugging me. Where 'do' you get MEK from!
Never gave nail polish remover a thought. Cheers Ixion. I'm going to have an experiment with that.![]()
I'm only wearing black until they develop something darker
We came, We listened, And in one voice we answered
BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!!
Nuplex has MEK and lots of it, and also MEKP too. Best of all, it's dead cheap, about $30 a litre or something iirc.
Where can I get the plastic filler rod?????
Found an absolutely brilliant glue for the plastics. It's the 'cement' stuff that plummer's use for gluing the plastic waste pipe joints together. Used it on my broken bits and they are great. Snapped the lugs that hold the fairing together. The glue has them as strong as the rest of the plastic. I also glued 3 pieces together that had broken around a fixing hole. Again, the joint is strong and also flexible. The cracks are almost invisible.
I'm only wearing black until they develop something darker
We came, We listened, And in one voice we answered
BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!!
An estimable discovery. Cheap, and readily avilable.
And, by induction, that means that the plastic fittings themselves are a source of compatible plastic for repairs.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
plastic fabricator/welder here if you need a hand ! will work for beer/bourbon/booze
come ride the southern roads www.southernrider.co.nz
Doesn't work with those sticky out phalluses that go into grommets to hold panels on. Y'know the ones that look like a tiny little dick (some of you should be fairly familiar with what that looks like, I'm sure).
Not even with a bit of 16# wire up the inside . Tried welding and glue, still pulls apart.
Any ideas?
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
plastic fabricator/welder here if you need a hand ! will work for beer/bourbon/booze
come ride the southern roads www.southernrider.co.nz
Supercheap do a two-pack plastic adhesive/filler. Dynatech Plastic Steel, IIRC. Comes in a double barrel syringe type dispenser. From the smell of it there are some fairly healthy chemicals in there. Not as cheap as old coathangers but it did a superb job of repairing the broken ABS radiator shroud of my KLR, and the $30 is a shitload cheaper than the $249 ex Japan cost of a bare panel (plus $180 for decals).
Stays usable for about 5 minutes after mixing and very good strength after an hour. After 24 hours I think it is stronger then the original plastic
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Sounds really good Pete.
My tail light needs fixing before warrant time (broken bits mean it flops around a bit. I've tried plastic welding it but the welding keeps cracking again. This stuff might be the go.
And I to my motorcycle parked like the soul of the junkyard. Restored, a bicycle fleshed with power, and tore off. Up Highway 106 continually drunk on the wind in my mouth. Wringing the handlebar for speed, wild to be wreckage forever.
- James Dickey, Cherrylog Road.
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