RF900 owners - opinions (of bike) required

[cs363]

Looking at getting a hack (for want of another word) bike to keep the mileage down on other toys, but want something that's capable of relaxed cruising long(ish) distances at moderate(ish, lol) speeds.

Have been offered an RF900 at a very good price, overall it seems reasonably tidy only downside appears to be high mileage, though given the attractive pricing thats not a major issue.

I'd be very interested to hear from others that own one of these or have owned one previously - things to look for, any major problems (especially on higher mileage bikes) etc.

Thanks in advance.

[riffer]

(dredging up one of my old posts)

I paid $4750 for a 95 with 45,000 miles on the clock. 20 months later it's now done 76,000 miles (125,000 kms).

I've found it to be pretty hard on front tyres - it tends to triangulate them, but its got a front-heavy bias so not unexpected. Avon Viper fronts don't last long but the grip is great. I recommend Avon Storm front and rear.

The lack of a fuel gauge is a pain - especially with a reserve that lasts a good 80-90 kms. I get 300kms before it hits reserve and the tank holds 21.5 litres from empty. A real nana might get 400 kms from a tank.

Big problems with the carbs around the 100,000 kms mark. Pay attention to the needle jets and the emulsion tubes they run in - its a problem with Mikuni downdraught carbies - friction as the jet needle slides and it wears the needles and emulsion tubes. I've replaced mine with the carbs from the 135HP MantaRay model, and run a K&N air filter, ignition advance and debaffled exhaust and it flies.

There's a known problem with the alternator cush drive - in some of the earlier models (94, 95) the drive for the alternator failed and they replaced a part to stop it snapping - unfortunately this part only lasts about 20,000 kms so needs to be checked often - and its a prick to get at too. See here on this site for complete instructions on how to fix it.

Don't leave it lying around in the rain because it won't run on four cylinders afterwards. It's a problem with the water either getting into the coils or the low-tension leads just behind the headstock. My solution is to smear Vaseline into the low tension connections as they exit the wiring loom and as they enter the coils. My RF doesn't have any problems starting after sitting in the pouring rain all day. Others have had problems with the spark plug boots but not me, so I'm hesitant to say its an RF problem.

The brakes are non-standard for a Suzuki (Nissin - normally found on Hondas) but they will take the Tokicos from the Hayabusa which apparently is a mod worth doing.

The whole bottom end (with the exception of the clutch) is straight out of the GSXR1100 so its bulletproof. Others overseas have commented on the hardening on 2nd gear going and causing problems but concensus of opinion seems to be that wheeliing the bike while preloading second ain't good for it.

The RF has a steel perimeter frame so in the unlikely event of a bent frame at least it is actually fixable, unlike an alloy frame.

Most RFs have about 125 at the crank, but you can get a lot, lot more. To meet American emission standards they did the same trick as on the gixxers - look for the pink wire just under the battery on the gear lever side - more midrange power in 3rd gear if you undo it. You can drill and remount the digital pickup as they will easily take another 4 or 5 degrees of advance. Also, putting in the cams from the 92 GSXR750 will help liberate even more power. With these two mods and a rejet you could get 160HP.

Good for 265km/hr on a good day. Best kept secret in motorcycling..

Mine has just hit 125,000 and although cosmetically it could do with a bit of work, mechanically it's perfectly sound. If I had to fault it I need to strip, clean and lube the front brakes and I'd like to put some heftier front springs in as the ride is pretty harsh at the front end with all the preload I've whacked on to it to stop the forks from sagging.

Here's some articles and posters elsewhere on the site.

[cs363]

Thanks riffer that's very helpful, just the kind of input I was hoping for - particularly as I'm going to see the bike tomorrow.
The one I'm looking at is a '94 with over 90,000km so am I correct in thinking that this may have either the original alternator drive or the updated one, depending on whether previous owners struck problems with that item?
Or are they not interchangeable?
(I'm assuming from the way your post is worded that it was a running change in later models, so not necessarily retrofitted)

[riffer]

94 definitely has the original. No worries there.

The dreaded emulsion tube problem will reveal itself as a bit of a hiccup when winding the throttle on from idle, between about 2 - 4,000 rpms.

[riffer]

I could also add that they slide down the road at 70kms an hour with minimal damage to them as well LOL.

[cs363]

94 definitely has the original. No worries there.

The dreaded emulsion tube problem will reveal itself as a bit of a hiccup when winding the throttle on from idle, between about 2 - 4,000 rpms.

Cool, that's a comfort! I've already got one bike that supposedly suffers from alternator drive issues, not that I've experienced any (touch wood)!
Regarding the emusion tube/needle issue, I'd already been informed about that particular issue and how common it is, but it's always good to have it confirmed by an actual owner

[cs363]

I could also add that they slide down the road at 70kms an hour with minimal damage to them as well LOL.

Given it's intended use as a hack bike then that's not bad to know either! lol

[blossomsowner]

Looking at getting a hack (for want of another word) bike to keep the mileage down on other toys, but want something that's capable of relaxed cruising long(ish) distances at moderate(ish, lol) speeds.

Have been offered an RF900 at a very good price, overall it seems reasonably tidy only downside appears to be high mileage, though given the attractive pricing thats not a major issue.

I'd be very interested to hear from others that own one of these or have owned one previously - things to look for, any major problems (especially on higher mileage bikes) etc.

Thanks in advance.

riffer has answered pretty well i think.................I also give them the thumbs up, great for cruising on at any speed you like and will get round corners well too if you are that way inclined.........

[cs363]

riffer has answered pretty well i think.................I also give them the thumbs up, great for cruising on at any speed you like and will get round corners well too if you are that way inclined.........

Thanks for your input - much appreciated
It's sounding like I'm going to have to own this bike (especially for the money they want for it!) as long as everything checks out OK.

[emaN]

mine's got a bit over 100k on it too, still good enough to have loads of fun on at trackdays!

re front tyres 'triangulating'; heavier springs up front have helped curb this for me. i also run 'sports' rubber on front now - with a more 'rounded' profile it gives a lovely controlled tip-in feel.

not sure what cams mine has in it; there's no original Suzuki markings on them. perhaps this helps explain her 'poke'...

i've not had issues with water&electrics.

re brakes, they're good enough to make yer forks 'twist n shout'; i've got Earl braided hoses & sintered metal pads on mine. i've heard of the mods, but can't see the point unless you brace your forks.

we toured europe & the UK on ours and it was great for it - never missed a beat!

[cs363]

mine's got a bit over 100k on it too, still good enough to have loads of fun on at trackdays!

re front tyres 'triangulating'; heavier springs up front have helped curb this for me. i also run 'sports' rubber on front now - with a more 'rounded' profile it gives a lovely controlled tip-in feel.

not sure what cams mine has in it; there's no original Suzuki markings on them. perhaps this helps explain her 'poke'...

i've not had issues with water&electrics.

re brakes, they're good enough to make yer forks 'twist n shout'; i've got Earl braided hoses & sintered metal pads on mine. i've heard of the mods, but can't see the point unless you brace your forks.

we toured europe & the UK on ours and it was great for it - never missed a beat!

Sweet - more positive info, thanks!
Well just got the call from the delivery dude.....he's about 20 mins away so I'd better shoot off and check this beastie out. will report back later

[Blossom]

The lack of a fuel gauge is a pain - especially with a reserve that lasts a good 80-90 kms. I get 300kms before it hits reserve and the tank holds 21.5 litres from empty. A real nana might get 400 kms from a tank.

hmmm... I am sure blossomsowner has never got that sort of mileage out of his rf900.. Its something he is looking into atm. It just seems to be a bit heavy on the fuel. Good to know what it's capable of.

[MSTRS:Me]

Not having owned one, but did have GSXR1100L...the RF900 shares the same bottom end and gearbox as the oil cooled 1100 of early 90s. Solid, reliable, can be good for 200,000kms. Just about the perfect sport tourer. Only thing that lets them down is the 5 speed g/box.

[FROSTY:Me]

Ive owned a few of these beasties.
Riffer pretty well covered off most of what I would tell ya.
One thing I'd add --Given the chance gear it down about 2 teeth in the rear.
I think top speed is overrated but by gosh it gives the old girl so much more punch at normallish speeds
Also If you can afford it the higher bars from F1 engineering make for a less wrist strained ride

[emaN]

re gearing, i dropped a tooth on front, helped heaps at Taupo!
bit more zippy on the road too.
revs a bit higher at 'touring' speeds, but i don't do much of that anymore, so... (wouldn't take long to put original sprocket back on anyhow)