Just an idle thought Marks.....could you possibly train the dribble of oil from your oil filter cover back to act as lubrication for the drive chain? Would save on that expensive Scott oiler fluid.
Anyway, theres a topic in here somewhere, I was a having a bit of a think of what I would do if starting over and this is it, from front to back:
15w fork oil.
Set sag correctly (packers to preload springs?)
Sintered brake pads.
TKC80 or MT21
Aftermarket bars.
30mm bar risers.
Bark busters or zeta equivalent.
Remove clutch interlock (unplugs behind headlight).
Fit a small clock.
Small fairing.
IMS tank.
Sheepskin on seat (or repad if you want to but nothing flash).
Remove sidestand interlock (cut the wire IIRC)
Weld on larger foot to sidestand.
Set rear sag correctly.
TKC80 or MT21
Final drive 15t to 46t with 14t sprocket for slow stuff.
Carb stuff...I wasn't convinced the exhaust, Dynojet kit and open airbox were worthwhile, I enjoyed the power but not the noise & fuel consumption.
Fran has done far more on this and should be listened too, there is a reasonable middle ground in there.
Most of this stuff is $5 stuff and takes sod all time but transformed the bike for me.
Enjoy!
Steve,
As Jamie has mentioned, we spent a fair bit of coin on our DR's getting organised for Oz.
The important changes for me and in order of importance were (and Jamie may have a different list): -
1. Seat
2. Suspension
3. Tyres
4. Tank
To my mind, these were the essentials. All the rest of what we did was prudent (and I would do them all again) but as things turned out, we could probably have got through without doing. The clutch may not have survived the 15 t front sprocket however.
For NZ use, the big tank is convenient but not essential, especially if you don't play around with the motor/carby/exhaust. Conversely, depending on what you plan to do, a bash plate probably is a really good idea (your intentions on the 42 come to mind here). My skill levels are modest at best and so for me the bottom end to mid range power delivery is just fine.
You will note that suspension is at #2. You are welcome to point my bike at some uphill corrugations immediately after doing them on yours if you want to find out why.
I may not be as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I always was.
If aesthetics aren't a strong consideration, I can recommend trying some DIY seat improvements.
I hacked the sherpa's seat with an electric breadknife, adhered a couple of new layers of foam on, and hacked some more. Then stapled on some vinyl from Spotlight.
Very comfy, and a wee bit less daggy than a sheepskin.
My breadknife is available for hire, in exchange for beer![]()
My order would be...
- 14t front sprocket
- Bashplate
- Springs front and rear
- Seat (modified or aftermarket)
The rest of the mods can be done at your leisure.
those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter don’t mind..
I Really like D606 tires. Massive grip on gravel and in the mud, and surprisingly grippy on the seal when warmed up. I can honestly say that I can ride as hard on the seal on these as I used to when I used to have a GSXR750. I even enjoy intentionally drifting the back wheel out on the seal but especially on the gravel. Just don't last long, but who gives a shit. Give some little bugger a job in a third world country making my tires. See, I am contributing to job opportunities and employment and doing my bit for the poor people.
I did the full works on my "06 DR. Only regret was changing pipe which caused jet changes, K&N filter and a very expensive IMS tank. Lots more mid range power, noise, fuel consumption. Can get 300kms from the IMS. Got seat modified locally. Have tried many different tyres but now stay with IRC 110s. Great on the road and gravel. useless in the mud. But very cheap. ran out of graduations on my speedo once.
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