Thanks for the graph, Neels. Could you tell us the nozzle % on these both curves? I guess it's 75 on the red one, but what is it on your RSW model?
With my model (which is built entirely on internet information, as I have never gotten my hands on a real RSW or RSA engine), I get the following:
as a start, I put the minimum diameter in the middle of the exhaust port and varied the nozzle diameter in % of the actual exhaust port area
Quite an improvement, but I guess most of us were already aware of that potential.
Next, I varied the position of the nozzle. I also found that the best value was 1,5 times the bore diameter, with 1,25 times about equal.
Interesting about my results is that the position of the nozzle does not so much add more hp, but fills the midrange dip quite remarkably instead.
In combination this gives a really nice improvement.
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Haufen, great results and presentation.
Have done something similar in the past, but "by accident", so wasn't looking for the right things and details.
With the "1.5 x bore" duct length we have one more rule of thumb to add to our toolbox trying to improve our different types of machinery.
The plate added to the 3G3 TZ350 cylinder to accommodate the long stroke crank was in 6061 alloy.
This is needed to be compatible with the plating process - but you need to tell your plater this is the material/weld used.
Of significance though is the fact that the plate is thicker than needed, and that it is thru bolted at all 11 stud holes whilst welding around the bore
and the water jacket.
I also took the opportunity to completely change the water flow.
The plate has only 4 - 12mm water exit holes above the Ex ports.
With the water inlet from the pump into the top back of the cylinder, all the cold flow is forced over the transfers,around the bore,then over the Ex duct and up into the head.
Then it travels back ,over the inserts, to the rear again and out at the highest point.
A small 3mm hole in the plate at the highest point of the cylinder allows trapped air to get out, into the head water jacket above.
Put large chamfers on the plate/bore faces, so the weld has good deep penetration, then the bore can be re cut without removing any of the existing bore face
and the top can be cut before plating, to give the correct deck position.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Many thanks Wobbly for all the info about plate and water jacket mods. I've be following your posts on the TZ400 with great interest. I was going to fit the head the standard way around, but I'll be checking to see if it will fit on the G chassis with the thermostat housing towards the rear now. Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.
I cut the thermostat housing off and welded a thin plate over the top.
The std Yamaha thermostat is junk - it opens at way too high temperature, and from memory the head isnt symmetrical so wont go on backward.
Now I use a proper bypass thermostat that starts to open at 42*C and with the larger pump impeller the 400 sits on 50*C all day.
The water outlet to the radiator on the back of the head, is the original inlet fitting.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Frepin Replica TZ400
Most if not all the links
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130563280
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130559561
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130920986
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130639230
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130930712
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130540263
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130346957
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130708802
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130930046
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130410366
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130411359
One I missed
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130929996
Bypass
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130410293
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1130410828
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Back story covering the development of the dam and using Engmod2T to analyse how to develop it.
After analyzing the mach numbers in the exhaust duct using Engmod2T we had a plan for the new exhaust duct.
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The new exhaust duct requires boring the existing over size duct out and pressing in a new smaller nozzle shaped duct. Chambers made a fly cutter and using Team ESE's rattly old mill drill with a bit of careful work he manged to make quite a neat job of boring the old duct out.
Thanks Husaberg for the links, only problem is that I should be getting up now, but haven't slept for the last few hours reading and digesting. All for a good cause though.
Wobbly, looking at the rear of the cylinder water entry, how do you get the water to flow around the outside of the water jacket ? It looks like it would flow straight between the the barrels to the exhaust side. Is there a baffle or restrictor. I really like the cnc water pump impeller, that must almost double the flow rate, nice. Thanks again gentlemen.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Yes, the std TZ350 cylinder has a thick wall between the cylinders that has a hold down stud tapped into it from above.
There is only a small water flow gap down low over the inner transfers, so water is forced to flow around the outsides as well.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
What you don't see is the cover the crankcase ventilation which was a separate part of the engine. This original design was not approved by the CIK/FIA. Ryger had to adjust this design. The crankshaft ventilation has now become an integral part of the crankcase.
The Ryger concept is completely accepted by the CIK/FIA and the engine seems to be homologated.
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