I thought you could base mill cylinder to tighten up squish and compression, just looked and that's part of case too.
Best bet is make a longer rod.
I thought you could base mill cylinder to tighten up squish and compression, just looked and that's part of case too.
Best bet is make a longer rod.
What do the transfer passages and head look like. It might be easier to increase the stroke to tighten the squish if there is a squish area. Otherwise the pipe with high enough exhaust port timing will be the easiest. Rpm equals easy power. The limit will be crankshaft flex and the big end bearing. it looks like the crankshaft isn't an overhung design, so that should hold up.
Lohring Miller
Thanks guys for the suggestions!
The problem i se with an engine like this, which relies on crankcase compression the more port time the less compression. Together with the fact that it has a piston-controlled intake, it makes a bit of a Catch 22 without a proper exhaust.
It has both a traditional piston-controlled intake port and a port through grooves in the piston to the transfer ports (which I have never seen before, perhaps common in these applications)
I tried porting a bit and I can not say that I noticed any big difference. It is 1 mm in squish so you could do a little there, but it is not a quick fix to stroke it or make a new connecting rod ...
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
My articles on what we do to our industrial 26 to 30 cc piston port, race engines are here:
http://namba.com/content/library/pro...015/October/#6
http://namba.com/content/library/pro...2016/April/#5/
Lohring Miller
Get rid of crap cylinder replace with noncrap one.
later on, realise i should have just brought a bigger saw.
Divorce wife get a younger girlfriend and central heating.
give saw to wife in the settlement.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
.
I just love that chain saw.
2Stroke Stuffing. Includes a brief run with the 24/7 on the dyno. Sounds much better with the longer inlet tract. Progress.
Kia ora,
I am wonder where I should go to read up on some modern 2T theory. I have read the performance tuning graham bell & tuners handbook but they seem mighty old - one suggested I buy a fancy scientific calculator.
I've been following Alex on 2T stuffing youtube channel for years.
Kia ora to you too, Joshua.
HERE would be a good start.
I can also recommend http://www.pit-lane.biz/t117p246-gp1...es-aprilia-rsa. It's a French forum, but the Aprilia-thread is largely English-spoken (Maori not so much, yet)
Thank you very much - I'll read over these today :> I really appreciate the help. I accidentally asked the same question in a facebook group called moped army. I had seen a heap of cool projects on there but no one seemed to have much in depth theory going on. More bolt on go fast parts.
Kia ora Josh. Mostly stuff posted by Wobbly and Frits. Some Team ESE stuff.
General secret 2S tuning stuff:- https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...tuner/page2000
Some of the SuzukiGP-NSR110 info:- https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...tuner/page1680
A whole lot more good stuff:- https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1131071959
110cc Crank Shaft half way down the page:- https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1131050937
Making a decent ignition from a Chinese aftermarket thing:- https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1131033289
A lot of what I know that I summarized in those articles was stolen from Frits and Wayne (wobbly).
Lohring Miller
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