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Thread: Valve clatter.

  1. #1
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    23rd November 2003 - 20:12
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    Valve clatter.

    I did my valve clearances the other day before a carb balance, turns out they were a little tight. Things is, there is now a rapping coming from the top end.
    Now I've been reading around the issue, too small a clearance and the valves may not fully retract as the metal expands or if they're too loose you may wear something out.

    Here's a video of the offending noise. I would imagine there should be some noise coming from the head anyway otherwise you've left too little clearance?
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ouJgkQoWy8

    Just thought I'd check with the Kb gurus rather than whipping the rocker cover back off.
    Quote Originally Posted by John Banks View Post
    Yes, but bikes = cool and cars = suck. I think it's Newton's fourth law or something.
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Dover View Post
    Queer Retarded Fags I think.

    Isn't sniper one of those?

  2. #2
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    24th September 2006 - 02:00
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    Rattly tappets when the engine is cold isn't bad at all, the noise should slowly disappear on a bike like yours though once warmed up (it's normally not noisy up top, your bike).

    So they've closed up since we did them last? You set them from a stone-cold engine (i.e. left over night to cool down)? Sure you didn't do something silly like mix fractions of inches with fractions of millimetres? IIRC on a couple of valves access was quite difficult -- had to flex the feeler gauge to get it inbetween the tappet and the valve, just be careful you haven't set it too wide because of that (feeler gauge should have some friction but still slide OK).

  3. #3
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    It's too noisy. Do them again. Also check the cam chain, sounds worn also.

  4. #4
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    Did it sound that rattley before? Some engines are noisy, but I'd be inclined to take another look. I seldom use feeler gauges, one never seems to be able to get them into place. Tight thumbnail for inlets, loose thumbnail for exhausts. (My thumbnail is finely calibrated, though it is in imperial measure - i have to convert for Jap bikes.) And check by the wiggle wiggle method.

    What clearance did you use ?
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  5. #5
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    22nd November 2008 - 18:09
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    valves

    On a old bike that has high k's it almost impossible to get rid of cam/valve tick because the cam profile/rocker is to worn.

  6. #6
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    0.1mm for inlet, 0.14mm for outlet. Definately noisier than it used to be.

    I'll leave it to sit overnight and drag myself out of bed early tomorrow morning to do them again (I didn't leave it overnight last time, I rode to the shops and back(about a kilometer) and then left it a few hours to cool).

    Quote Originally Posted by tri boy View Post
    It's too noisy. Do them again. Also check the cam chain, sounds worn also.
    I shall consult the Haynes and I'll report back tomorrow.
    Quote Originally Posted by John Banks View Post
    Yes, but bikes = cool and cars = suck. I think it's Newton's fourth law or something.
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Dover View Post
    Queer Retarded Fags I think.

    Isn't sniper one of those?

  7. #7
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    I use wiggle and click test, Smooth wiggle on the inlets - should be able to wiggle side to side but not up and down, exhaust should be able to lift up and down slightly - enough to hear a slight click (with no oil between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm). Valve tops may have pitted and worn concave meaning the feeler method will allways be too loose as there will be a gap under the guage that the rocker arm fits into. You will probably be able to see which one is making the noise if you do the "click" test.

  8. #8
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    I adjusted the valve clearances bright and early this morning, only to break one of the screws that holds the rocker cover inside of the rocker cover. :@

    Where could I get one of these? Bolt shop is closed being a Sunday and Mitre ten mega is useless. I get the feeling that I'll be waiting for Honda to open up Monday morning.

    Also, what's the best method for removing a half broken screw without pushing it further into the rocker cover?
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Banks View Post
    Yes, but bikes = cool and cars = suck. I think it's Newton's fourth law or something.
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Dover View Post
    Queer Retarded Fags I think.

    Isn't sniper one of those?

  9. #9
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    those are specilised bolts, the bolt shop wont be able to help (but i'd check anyways)

    either you're looking at a brand new set from honda (if they make them)

    or getting them made.
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magua View Post
    Also, what's the best method for removing a half broken screw without pushing it further into the rocker cover?
    At what point did the screw break?
    If there is still a small bit sticking out try use a pliers if there is enough access to get at it.
    If it has broken off flush or below the hole try gently tapping it in the correct direction with a centre punch or small chisel.
    And then if all else fails you may need to drill it but Im sure someone else will have a few more ides before going this far.
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  11. #11
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    Oh you're fucked. Call Econohonda or your mate David Silver. I've got a torque wrench now -- borrow it next time

    No, it wasn't that noisy before.

  12. #12
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    Let me guess Magua,it's snapped off on the shoulder were it changes from 5mm dia to 9mm dia.If it has remove the rocker cover,can you grip it with small vice grips? If you cannot you may have to drill it and use an easy out(depends how much access/room you have). Always ensure blind fastener holes are free of any oil(fluid) before inserting fastener in them and attemping to tighten fastener as this will result in a hydraulic lock which then normally leads to a snapped fastener.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magua View Post
    Where could I get one of these? Bolt shop is closed being a Sunday and Mitre ten mega is useless. I get the feeling that I'll be waiting for Honda to open up Monday morning.
    They're called shoulder bolts, but you're unlikely to get one like that - most are cap head not hex and they'll probably only be available as oil quenched so will rust. EDL & Steelmasters do them.

    At a stretch you can replace it with a normal hex head zinc machine screw with a fibre washer under the bolt head as long as there are 2 or more correct ones holding the rocker cover location wise.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by howdamnhard View Post
    Let me guess Magua,it's snapped off on the shoulder were it changes from 5mm dia to 9mm dia.If it has remove the rocker cover,can you grip it with small vice grips? If you cannot you may have to drill it and use an easy out(depends how much access/room you have). Always ensure blind fastener holes are free of any oil(fluid) before inserting fastener in them and attemping to tighten fastener as this will result in a hydraulic lock which then normally leads to a snapped fastener.
    Well, I just snapped another one. How do I make sure that the hole is fluid free?
    Quote Originally Posted by John Banks View Post
    Yes, but bikes = cool and cars = suck. I think it's Newton's fourth law or something.
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Dover View Post
    Queer Retarded Fags I think.

    Isn't sniper one of those?

  15. #15
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    PM me your address details. I've got two stepped bolts I can send you.

    You can dab a bit lint free cloth or cotton bud in the hole. It'll remove most of the oil. Couple of dabs if need be.
    Then do a dry run as it were by screwing the bolt in the hole before you refiit the rocker cover.

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