Was having a look around Holeshot today they are summerfesting them off at $11,995 with a yoshi Triangular end can and I'm thinking hmmmm this would make a great second bike. So much bike for the money and I am sure it will be a way more interesting bike than a 1250 Bandit.
Those charts show that there is little value in the BMC compared to the stock air filter.
And torque surfing surely is a wondrous thing.
"Standing on your mother's corpse you told me that you'd wait forever." [Bryan Adams: Summer of 69]
The Factory Pro site has a list of various bikes for approxmiate HP numbers for reference. No old oil boiler 1100's or 1400's though
http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html
I must say though, if a GSX600 can make nearly 70hp at the rear wheel that 1400 could make a lazy 120 no worries surely. The old built oil boiler 750's could make 120 in race trim I believe.
But yes, I can't imagine what the torque on that thing would be like![]()
Little power gain, indeed.
Just swapping the muffler gave a significant power gain, mind you. I don't have comparative dyno measurements, but the top speed (with me on board) going from an indicated 230 to an indicated 250 speaks volumes.
I'm sure that the 1400 would easily exceed that mark with appropriate modifications to the valve lifts and ignition timing.
But I'm not sure I'll ever bother. It's quite lovely just the way it is now.
Take one out for a ride and see.
kiwibiker is full of love, an disrespect.
- mikey
For comparison here's a GSF 1200 curve.
The 1250 will piss all over this.
In reality full throttle curves are meaningless - when was the last time anyone had the throttle against the stop at high revs on the road on a big bike?
It's what the part throttle curves look like that tells us what a bike is like to ride.
All dynamometers are comparative.
Unless you run all vehicles on the same dyno with the same correction factors the comparisons are pointless.
Also these are inertial dynos ,not proper brakes.
In other words - mickey mouse.
Inertia Sweep: An inertia dyno system that provides a fixed inertial mass flywheel and computes the power required to accelerate the flywheel (load) from the starting to the ending rpm. The actual rotational mass of the engine or engine and vehicle in the case of a chassis dyno is not known and the variability of even tire mass will skew power results. The inertia value of the flywheel is "fixed", so low power engines are under load for a much longer time and internal engine temperatures are usually too high by the end of the test, skewing optimal "dyno" tuning settings away from the outside world's optimal tuning settings. Conversely, high powered engines, commonly complete a common "4th gear sweep" test in less than 10 seconds, which is not a reliable load condition as compared to operation in the outside world. By not providing enough time under load, internal combustion chamber temps are unrealistically low and power readings, especially past the power peak, are skewed low.
Get a real one. Check out the "Dale's new Drag Bike" link.
TripleZee, who tuned my bike, use a proper brake dyno.
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kiwibiker is full of love, an disrespect.
- mikey
So it's about being a tight-arse and saving money instead of having to buy a new filter?
What I don't like about these aftermarket filters is that material is more open to allow more air flow - but that then requires an oil to trap the finer particles.
If you over oil it you will lose air flow. If you under oil it finer particles will get through into your engine.
It may be fine for a short-lived race bike engine, but I wouldn't gamble with it on a road bike for the small difference in HP.
Replacing the standard filter with a new one when required will keep your HP good.
edit: Unless of course there is a foolproof way of oiling them...???
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