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Thread: Bike warm-up?

  1. #46
    Join Date
    22nd July 2008 - 18:28
    Bike
    Small Mercies
    Location
    Lagunaville
    Posts
    380
    Start it up then put Helmet and gloves on and go, don't believe in waiting for minutes till the needle's on warm. Then ride gently for a few minutes,the 'Busa warms up very quickly anyway but I'm also mindful of the cold tyres. My Bandit 1200 on the other hand needed the choke on for at least 5 minutes - recalcitrant bitch.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    5th November 2006 - 12:51
    Bike
    Yamablah Arse-Ix
    Location
    Peoples Republic of Fitby
    Posts
    254
    Quote Originally Posted by nico View Post
    i gunually just push bike down drive start her up on choke let it idle wile i go close shead gate put gloves on by that time idle has raised choke off normal idle ride slow for a couple k then im on the highway let it rip
    Ditto. Takes just under 5 mins to get out of Fitby, which is long enough on low revs to be good to go soon as I hit SH58.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    19th August 2007 - 18:49
    Bike
    GSX-R600 k8
    Location
    Palmerston Otago
    Posts
    2,176
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWST? View Post
    use the correct oil ...the most waer occurs straight after start up..ie the first few revolutions as the cold thick oil "doesnt" flow through the engine"One of the main advantages of the thinner synthetics....and no downside cos the thin synthetics dont break down at the temps the thin dino oils do...
    This is my thinking too and is partly why I went to a Amsoil synthetic 10w-40. So it cost an extra $50... big deal.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    6th April 2007 - 19:10
    Bike
    ZX10R ZZR1100 KLR650
    Location
    Lower Hutt
    Posts
    330

    No. 1 is oil pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by 98tls View Post
    Simply put,work out how your oil pump is driven then decide how long you want to wait and listen to your cold motor and overworked oil pump achieving bugger all at idle.
    +1 only warm long enough that you can safely pull out into traffic and bike won't bog down. It is far more important to get that oil pump spinning in normal operating range so motor gets good oil pressure around 50psi. Idle = 5-10psi...not good for motor especially when cold. Very old skool motors need extended metal warm up.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    19th January 2006 - 19:13
    Bike
    mutton dressed up as lamb and a 73 XL250
    Location
    On any given sunday?
    Posts
    9,032
    Quote Originally Posted by _STAIN_ View Post
    +1 only warm long enough that you can safely pull out into traffic and bike won't bog down. It is far more important to get that oil pump spinning in normal operating range so motor gets good oil pressure around 50psi. Idle = 5-10psi...not good for motor especially when cold. Very old skool motors need extended metal warm up.
    Stop making sense,this is Kiwi biker.
    Be the person your dog thinks you are...

  6. #51
    Join Date
    12th September 2006 - 01:15
    Bike
    BMW R1200RT
    Location
    Ponga Hill
    Posts
    1,023
    I generally follow the instructions in the owners manual.

    Almost every bike manual I have read says:

    (a) Avoid extended idling.
    (b) The best way to warm the engine is to ride with light use of the throttle.
    (c) Don't use the engine's full rpm range until the engine has warmed up.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    1st November 2005 - 08:18
    Bike
    F-117.
    Location
    Banana Republic of NZ
    Posts
    7,048
    Start.
    Put glubs on.
    Pootle off down street.
    Done.

    Quote Originally Posted by discotex View Post
    In my case it can overheat the cats with exhaust full of unburnt fuel.
    Best get rid of that silly item then...
    TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”

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