Hi!
Last weekend I drove the molesworth and rainbow road on my guzzi, and I loved it!
I made a little story and a movie which i put down below!
This weekend I was planning on doing the maungatapu track to Nelson. I've hear d that this is quite a rough ride, any experiences, tips?
Kind regards,
Tim
Molesworth and Rainbow
When I first got my pushbike in New Zealand, a loan-gift from Fred, one day I took it out to the Taylor dam which protects Blenheim from a flood from the Taylor River, might it rain that hard -which will probably not happen in the very future - but it’s nice to know were safe.
When I had a look down at the dam, I saw a roadsign, with the following information: “acces to Molesworth and Hanmer, no fuelservices for the next 190 kms”.
From that moment on, I knew, one day, I will travel that road on my motorbike.
The road only opens through certain periods a year, and for the start, it did not seem like it was gonna be open this year at all, with another hot and dry summer, and with that a very high fire risk, to come. The area is so remote, it might be to late for people to discover a fire.
My first attempt, was a few weeks back, but with a lack of preparation, it all went wrong, and I ended up loosing my sleepingbag not far from the start, and eventually, sliding down a ridge, with bike and all. Fortuanelly only my ego got damaged.
Leaves are turning yellow and the harvest is started, telling me that fall is not far away, and I had to make some progress because otherwise, the road will be closed again at the end of March.
So with some extra day’s off during easter, a custom made pannier rack and a new sleepingbag firmly tied up on the back of my bike, I was up for the second attempt, this time, reminded by my own phamflets to enquire if somebody may have found my sleepingbag, that I hung up a few weeks ago, and whose survived the constant blowing wind in the valley, I regulary checked if all my luggage was still with me, and it was.
So over the Taylor Pass again, taking a right on the Awatery Valley Road, a road which follows the Awatery River. Things can be so simple.
Leaving the vineyards behind, I also find the road running out of asphalt. So far for the smooth ride, let the work begin.
Work I have to, the gravel is rough and the sun is hot. I first clime some hills, and keep being amazed by the fact that there are people living so far from the supermarket. But collegue Russel once told me, if there’s a road, there a houses, otherwise there will be no road.
In this matter, that is not exactly true. The Maori’s were first to use the route to go to the battlefield and fight with other tribes on the westcoast. Hundreds of years later, they told the European settelers the route to Hanmer, whose had to bring their sheep, from Marlborough to newly discovered Canterburry.
Later, in the 1950’s, a high voltage powerline, between north and south was establised on this route, and to maintain this line, a road had to be made.
Soaking up al this information, and all the beautifull views, I get distracted for one second, and with squeezing tyres and screaming brakes I come to an hold a few centimeters before the edge of a canyon. I truly had to cool down for a moment and sing that song from the Black Seeds, before I could go along.
The landscape is getting harsh, and the only thing living down here are cattle and some sheep. A chopper flies over. Not to search for a lost biker I hope, because I might be covered in dust, and my hair’s all messed up, lost I am not.
I come to a realise, that I misunderstood the Molesworth station thing. I thought that the whole route I was driving on, was the Molesworth station, but when I reach a gate which says, “you’re now entering the Molesworth station” I understand, that it begins right from this point.
There is an old cottage, which used to be a place for shepherds to stay the night on their long journey to the west that took them about six days. Nowdays, around this cottage, a camping area is develloped and there is a little rangers accomodation house. I tell myself to call it a day and make camp here.
A campervan with an elderly pair is staying here aswell, and I make a little chat with the man while I pitch the tent and cook some tea. What’s on the menu tonight? According to the information on the can, it is spagetti with meatballs. And, maybe it is because I’m hungry, it tastes delicious.
I have a walk around and at the otherside of the hill, where you can see the actual Molesworth homestead. Are there really people living here? Yes. A little town, only a few houses and some sheds big is establissed here in the middle of fucking nowhere. The people living here, maintain the grazing cattle (10.000) with their horses (80) and dogs (45) at New Zealands biggest station, 180,476 hectares big.
Cattle, and not sheep. There used to be about 100.000 sheep and over a milion of rabbits in this area, and it was highly overgrazed, almost turning it into a dessert.
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