Chain lube and noobs...

**Winston001** · 18th February 2009, 20:39

Originally Posted by JATZ

Try a garden centre or irrigation supply shop, I do a wee bit of irrigation instalation, and we have plenty of small taps like that at work, also small tee's and bits and pieces.

Cheers. Tried Mitre 10 Mega last Saturday which is where I found the 4mm tap. Irrigation stuff as you say. Now I've decided 4m is too fiddly to turn and want a bigger tap so......maybe I'll try a 13mm. Sigh. That's $1.45 wasted....

Plus I'll have to adapt it down to 4/5mm. More cost.....

Expensive hobby chaps. Think I'll try and sell a couple on Tardme once I get it sorted - naturally giving credit where due - call it the TonyW II Oiler.....

**NordieBoy** · 18th February 2009, 20:39

Originally Posted by Padmei

I have dinner around 8 oclock

8pm is second dinner time.

**NordieBoy** · 18th February 2009, 20:41

Originally Posted by Tony W

...put your Mrs on please, she sounds sensible...

Soooo many answers just crying out to be heard!

**Padmei** · 18th February 2009, 20:59

Originally Posted by Tony W

FFS JATZ,

...put your Mrs on please, she sounds sensible...

sillyfuckentencharacterrule

**Steve L** · 20th February 2009, 20:03

Originally Posted by JATZ

Try a garden centre or irrigation supply shop, I do a wee bit of irrigation instalation, and we have plenty of small taps like that at work, also small tee's and bits and pieces.

JATZ Got the tap from a mate he said they were lawn mower fuel taps, I think the barbs are 6mm but 5mm pvc tube pushs on good as gold. What I like
about the tap is its adjustable the ,more you turn it the more it flows between it and the bic pen nozzle you can get it to dip fast or slow.

**JATZ** · 20th February 2009, 20:43

Originally Posted by Steve L

JATZ Got the tap from a mate he said they were lawn mower fuel taps, I think the barbs are 6mm but 5mm pvc tube pushs on good as gold. What I like
about the tap is its adjustable the ,more you turn it the more it flows between it and the bic pen nozzle you can get it to dip fast or slow.

AAAAH, thats where I'd seen one before, couldn't quite place it. The company I work for also does hire gear and we have shitloads of broken down small engines and machinery, if the irrigation stuff doesn't work, i'll try some small engine stuff

**JATZ** · 20th February 2009, 20:46

Originally Posted by Tony W

FFS JATZ, WE'RE NOT WATERING THE FKN GARDEN HERE......!:slap:

...put your Mrs on please, she sounds sensible...

Y'but if it all goes pear shaped and doesn't work you can use the bits in the garden irritation, sensible or WHAT !

**XF650** · 20th February 2009, 20:52

Loobman's don't have a tap & only require one squeeze of the bottle per tank of gas. Any more than that & it will keep dribbling after you have stopped moving. The exception maybe after riding through deep water (if the oil has been washed off the chain), you may want to give the feed another 'charge' then.
On any manual system I have seen, oil thickness / viscosity and temp may effect flow rate, so a bit of trial & error required. Certainly a tap should help stop residual oil in the lines from dripping on the garage floor.

**Tony W** · 21st February 2009, 17:30

Originally Posted by XF650

Loobman's don't have a tap & only require one squeeze of the bottle per tank of gas. Any more than that & it will keep dribbling after you have stopped moving. The exception maybe after riding through deep water (if the oil has been washed off the chain), you may want to give the feed another 'charge' then.
On any manual system I have seen, oil thickness / viscosity and temp may effect flow rate, so a bit of trial & error required. Certainly a tap should help stop residual oil in the lines from dripping on the garage floor.

Guys, just to reiterate what XF said, you don't really need a tap, if you have designed your systems on the "shot" basis.

The trouble with taps is you have to stop again to turn them off. OR if you forget you can accidentally leave them on while the bike is parked.

....messy

**Winston001** · 26th February 2009, 07:34

Originally Posted by Tony W

Guys, just to reiterate what XF said, you don't really need a tap, if you have designed your systems on the "shot" basis.

The trouble with taps is you have to stop again to turn them off. OR if you forget you can accidentally leave them on while the bike is parked.

....messy

Understood Tony - one shot per ride or fuel tank fill, something like that. I for one don't expect a continuous flow.

However if your ride is short, being able to turn the oil flow off when you get home is useful.

As for oil, chainsaw oil which has anti-throw properties seems like a good option.

And thanks for the small-engine tap suggestion, in fact a m/c tank tap would work too.

:

**vifferman** · 26th February 2009, 10:10

I know this is an ADV/DP thread, but it seemed sorta the right place to post.
Spent quite a bit of time cleaning Motul chain lube from my chain last night. Took half a litre of kero to get most of it off (although no doubt there's probably still a couple of kilos of chain spooge caked around the inside of the countershaft sprocket cover. Gah! and all that...
The chain was much quieter, and the bike changed gears a little easier this morning. I'm not going to use the Motul again. It's suposedly a grease, but it's the first grease I've seen that has the consistency of old gorilla snot.
Tonight I'm going to buy some WD40 and go over the chain with that. Eventually I'd like to have summat like the ProOiler (Phark! They're expensive!) So I'll probably have to opt for a variation of the TonyW luber instead, or stick with WD40 or Spectro Chainwax.

And I still have to pull bits off my bike and blowtorch off all the chain spooge caked here'n'there (i.e., from arsehole to breakfast).
Feckin chain lube....

**JATZ** · 26th February 2009, 19:44

Originally Posted by vifferman

I know this is an ADV/DP thread, but it seemed sorta the right place to post.
Spent quite a bit of time cleaning Motul chain lube from my chain last night. Took half a litre of kero to get most of it off (although no doubt there's probably still a couple of kilos of chain spooge caked around the inside of the countershaft sprocket cover. Gah! and all that...
The chain was much quieter, and the bike changed gears a little easier this morning. I'm not going to use the Motul again. It's suposedly a grease, but it's the first grease I've seen that has the consistency of old gorilla snot.
Tonight I'm going to buy some WD40 and go over the chain with that. Eventually I'd like to have summat like the ProOiler (Phark! They're expensive!) So I'll probably have to opt for a variation of the TonyW luber instead, or stick with WD40 or Spectro Chainwax.

And I still have to pull bits off my bike and blowtorch off all the chain spooge caked here'n'there (i.e., from arsehole to breakfast).
Feckin chain lube....

I got one of the BIG (standard oiler connected to a big reservoir behind the number plate) scottoilers on the Triumph and the chain is always clean and shiney, no road "spooge" at all.

**Dolph** · 26th February 2009, 19:58

but,...about how much does a Scottoiler cost,...fitted ???

**Tony W** · 28th February 2009, 10:41

Guys, what kind of wear causes a chain to go loose then tight on the sprockets when you rotate the wheel ?

...and no not my chain... a mate's on a 610 Husky motard on which he's used BelRay aerosol.