Chain lube and noobs...

[cooneyr]

I wish my bike was belt drive...
Although chains still look better. Form before function FTW...

Dude you realise this is an adv forum. Stones and grit mean belt drives don't last that long as I understand.

Beware of automatic oilers off road.
Beware of sticky chain lubes off road....

I'm with you on this one. I had (still have the in garage somewhere) a twin head scotty setup on the DR650 just before I replaced the chain and sprockets. I figured I'd be pretty regimented about replacing the CS sprocket cause they seem to be the first part of the final drive train to show wear. First new 15 tooth JT sprocket started to show signs of wear at about 1500km and was off in 2000kms. Second did the same thing so I tried a Suzuki sprocket which was OK when I sold it some 3000km later.

I'm in the process of using up the scotty oil I have lying around by pulling the bike onto the side stand (damn heavy XTZ) and applying with a squeeze bottle. Chain is lubed when doing seal and left alone when on gravel. This level of lubing seemed to work well on the DR before the scotty and the XTZ's chain doesn't appear to be complaining either (done about 5000kms on the XTZ to date with not replacements). You just have to learn how much oil to squeeze on the chain and it is best to put it on the side plates not the centre as you get less fling. Will go back to gear oil when the scotty oil runs out.

Cheers R

[timg]

www.pro-oiler.com My Transalp is having it's 24000km/2yr service at present. First/original set of sprockets & chain is being replaced as well, more because it has reached the factory replace sticker rather than appearing knackered and it seemed prudent to do so rather then push my luck and have chain problems in the middle of the Rainbow or some other equally bugger of a place. At a guess 50% of it's mileage has been on gravel, clay or riverbed tracks etc incl water crossings. I reckon the Pro Oiler is a great piece of kit. Based on others chain stories, it would appear to have doubled the expected life expectancy of my chain & sprockets so has paid for itself already. The real beauty of this system is that the amount of oil applied to the chain (double sided delivery standard not an extra cost option like the competition) is governed by 1) speed and 2) an adjustable programable controller mounted in the cockpit you can adjust on the go. Whack it up when you hit shingle, leave it up high for several kms when you leave the shingle to wash the chain then turn it down low for the seal. Minimal fling off compared to the Scotty's I've watched in use. I clean the chain with Kero when I do my mid-service interval oil & air cleaner change ie every 6000km. Cheapest Warehouse engine oil works well but recently I've been using Scott Oiler oil. ADV riders opinions on chain maintance is a bit like their opinions on tyre choice - varied and none is necessiarily wrong. Find something that works for you, suits your needs & budget. If you are looking at a double sided Scott Oiler, the Pro Oiler is a similar cost option but superior in my view. Cheers.

[NordieBoy]

Scottoiler and a good chain.

One RK 525 XSO chain lasted 8000km and was completely shagged. Adjusted before ride and needed 3 notches on the snail cam after.
Another identical chain and it's done 13000km and been adjusted 1 notch since new. Oh and it's the same sprockets as for the shot chain.

[babysteps]

Thank you gentlemen, lots to digest

[Woodman]

I had an xl600 an i directed the crankcase breather onto the chain. It worked really well, just had to top the engine up occaisonally. Might try it on the klr cos the oil is going somewhere and I may as well make use of it. A pcv valve may be the thing to make it work even better.

[oldrider]

Pro_oiler, at last I am in control of my chain.

No more expensive drive shafts for me. John.

[NordieBoy]

The problem with the crankcase breather is it also breathes in...

[warewolf]

The first auto-luber I used was one of these: Motrax Lubetronic, bought in 1994(?). Still have it, and will fit it to the 640A "real soon now"...maybe. Seems like a similar thing to the pro-oiler, being electronic with a dial adjuster for a drip rate of every 15s to 2:15s.

I was never really very happy with it on my Triumph so replaced it with a ScottOiler HCR unit. I think the big problem was engine heat affecting the flow rate, and poor delivery to the chain by the single dripper forward of the rear sprocket. The rear-mounted Scottie had the same problem until I relocated the dripper to rest on the side of the rear sprocket.

The best delivery system is probably via brush; Pixie sells them. I would be real interested to see if the brush physically removes dust/grit from an adventured chain.

And yeah, Bass I heed your warning. I reckon I destroyed 1.5 chains prematurely until I got the oiler working properly. Will certainly keep an eye on the Lubetronic if I decide to install it.

[oldrider]

Ask KB's "Pixie", he has a pretty good product that has really worked well for him. John.

[JATZ]

I had an xl600 an i directed the crankcase breather onto the chain. It worked really well, just had to top the engine up occaisonally. Might try it on the klr cos the oil is going somewhere and I may as well make use of it. A pcv valve may be the thing to make it work even better.

Did exactly that with the breather on the XT for a while, got very messy, very quickly, and the oil gets pretty hot too, not to sure if thats good for the chain.
FWIW. I lube the chain every fuel fill pretty much, only takes a few seconds and I don't think it can hurt, can it?

[bart]

Dumb question.........how much do these fancy automatic oilers cost compared to just replacing the chain every few thousand km's???? Personally I'm lucky to chew through a chain every 2 years. They aren't that expensive.

My advice is, cleaning the chain regularly is probably more important than lubrication. Just my thoughts. Shoot me down if you must.

[NordieBoy]

Dumb question.........how much do these fancy automatic oilers cost compared to just replacing the chain every few thousand km's???? Personally I'm lucky to chew through a chain every 2 years. They aren't that expensive.

My advice is, cleaning the chain regularly is probably more important than lubrication. Just my thoughts. Shoot me down if you must.

$60 for a Scotty and 30000km out of a DID X-ring.

[bart]

$60 for a Scotty and 30000km out of a DID X-ring.

Consider me shot down. I thought they were more expensive than that.

[Tony W]

Consider me shot down. I thought they were more expensive than that.

That would have been a good deal second hand one...

How much is a new twin delivery Scottoiler KBers ? $400 ?

[warewolf]

Dumb question.........how much do these fancy automatic oilers cost compared to just replacing the chain every few thousand km's????

Factor in the cost of cans of chain lube versus oil, time to spray the chain and/or adjust it (not a lot each time, but a lot of times) plus costs of changing the chain & sprockets... labour, gaskets etc. Changing the front sprocket on the Triumph means dropping an engine/sidestand mounting bolt, removing the clutch slave cylinder, dumping the engine oil, and replacing a $20 gasket... just to get to it. Anything that reduces the frequency of that job saves quite a bit of money.

Mid-quality chain & sprocket set for the 640 cost $250 (2 fronts) per 12-18 months, highest-quality about $400+ per 18-24 months. If a $400 luber doubles the life of the chain, it can pay for itself in a couple of years.