Chain lube and noobs...

[Tony W]

Padmate,
looks as though you blew the budget on the tees !!!

Good luck with the trial.

I've done a lot of experimentation with bottle positioning.

If for some unexplained reason your bottle starts delivering oil continuously, even though it defies logic, what it is, is dust getting in the threads of the red cap on the bottle allowing air to gain entry and therefore letting gravity do its job.

I have ended up looping the tube above the oil level to avoid this.

Also if your pipes are too near the chain it could flick up in certain cicumstances and hit the pipes. ( I too had my first attempt exiting inside the chain guide )
Too far away and you could have a windage problem redirecting your drops away from the target.
Only time will tell.

Good effort.

[marks]

OK spent 3 days in the lab & after rogering Igor senseless

I would like to point out that Padmei is not a typical KLR rider.

[Padmei]

I would like to point out that Padmei is not a typical KLR rider.

Damn right I spent $10 on tees

I have the bottle turned vert to stop oil running down. Hopefully the tubes don't get pulled off

[JATZ]

Damn right I spent $10 on tees

I have the bottle turned vert to stop oil running down. Hopefully the tubes don't get pulled off

You also got done for the clear hose. I coulda sold you some of that for $1.00 a meter, saved y'self 80 cents ('course it would have been a hundred odd k round trip)

Probly could have found some t's too

[Padmei]

You also got done for the clear hose. I coulda sold you some of that for $1.00 a meter, saved y'self 80 cents ('course it would have been a hundred odd k round trip)

Probly could have found some t's too

[Hitcher]

Another wordless effort. Gah!

[marks]

Another wordless effort. Gah!

yeah but he does it with such emotion

BTW Padmei - I hope Igor wasn't too sore to ride his Beemer home afterwards

[Padmei]

yeah but he does it with such emotion

BTW Padmei - I hope Igor wasn't too sore to ride his Beemer home afterwards

oh thats very good

[CrazyFrog]

O ring and X ring chains have lubricants sealed within, so overlubing your chain (particularly for use in dusty or sandy environments) is going to attract gunge to the chain, thereby accelerating wear on the O/X rings.

I lightly oiled my chain yesterday before heading off down to Anatori and beyond.
First 150km was sealed road, then 70km gravel, then into the sand dunes past Anaweka River. The chain was sufficiently dusty before I reached the dunes, and after 20 mins of playing in the sand, the chain looked nice and clean, no sand stuck around the o-rings, the whole thing actually looked polished. Relubed it once I got back onto the seal again, only after I had give it a good sluicing crossing a couple of rivers and another 70km gravel back to the sealed road.
Minimum lubing works for me whenever heading off into the dirt/sandy conditions, because the sealed o-ring/x-ring chains should do their job of keeping the roller grease intact. I've always found most heavy aerosol chain lubes attract far too much gunk to the chain, turning dust and dirt into a heavy grinding paste.
I'm not too bothered about changing chains every 10-15,000km anyway, they're only the same price of a tyre which only last half that distance. In my view, it's the price you pay for getting off the beaten track.

[Oscar]

I lightly oiled my chain yesterday before heading off down to Anatori and beyond.
First 150km was sealed road, then 70km gravel, then into the sand dunes past Anaweka River. The chain was sufficiently dusty before I reached the dunes, and after 20 mins of playing in the sand, the chain looked nice and clean, no sand stuck around the o-rings, the whole thing actually looked polished. Relubed it once I got back onto the seal again, only after I had give it a good sluicing crossing a couple of rivers and another 70km gravel back to the sealed road.
Minimum lubing works for me whenever heading off into the dirt/sandy conditions, because the sealed o-ring/x-ring chains should do their job of keeping the roller grease intact. I've always found most heavy aerosol chain lubes attract far too much gunk to the chain, turning dust and dirt into a heavy grinding paste.
I'm not too bothered about changing chains every 10-15,000km anyway, they're only the same price of a tyre which only last half that distance. In my view, it's the price you pay for getting off the beaten track.

It's funny you should say that, as I was thinking that there might be summat in this Scott Oiler business. But then I realised that even with a minimal chain lube regime (pretty much as you described) my bike still has the original chain on it after 12,500ks and it ain't looking too bad. Now considering my Adventure does actually get adventure ridden in sand and mud and gravel. Added to this it also gets the snot caned out of it from time to time to the tune of a hundred ponies, so the fact that it looks good for another 5000km is nae bad.

Your name belies your obvious wisdom, Mr. Frog.

[Hitcher]

New-to-chain-lubing me put too much wax on my chain the other day. Most of it ran out around the front sprocket and created a pool of ooze under the Shiver whilst stopped in Masterton's heat for some sustenance. "Gah! What's fucked?" I enquired, demonstrating my profound technical competence to all within earshot. The smell of the ooze revealed much, to my blessed relief.

[babysteps]

This thread rocks, there is so much good information within its pages I think it deserves a sticky

[Oscar]

This thread rocks, there is so much good information within its pages I think it deserves a sticky

Probably needs some stuff about chain tension too.
If yer chain is too tight or too loose it can accelerate chain and sprocket wear and cause problems with gear changes.

And another thing I just thought off for the guys who spend a fair bit of time off-road - you might wanna remove that countershaft sprocket cover. In mucky conditions it can fill up with crap and derail yer chain.

Most trail or adventure bikes have a much smaller case protector under the large cover. Take the top one off and you'll find a half round doohickey underneath that goes between the chain and yer cases (to stop the cases getting smashed if the chain breaks).

[Winston001]

OK spent 3 days in the lab & after rogering Igor senseless
made up my TonyWTM chain oiler.

Gear:
2m x 5mm clear tube $1.40/m (vs $11 @ supercheap!) & smallish bottle $1.25 - payless plastics

2x 6mm Tees $5 each !! @ Supercheap - only place I could find them.

3oomm x brakeline courtesy of my lil friends @ pitstop

All seemed to go together pretty well. The brakeline was great for getting in the right possy for dripping. Tip - use water to test it out first.

Replaced water with gooold Briggs & stratton mower engine oil I got with my mower 15 yrs ago that I've never changed yet. Why? - just to piss people off
Will hide bottle under side cover & fix in place with a couple of 32mm metal saddles .....

Great job and very interesting.

Might I suggest the addition of a small tap in the line. A 4mm irrigation-tube tap will work. That way you can turn the oil supply off thus avoiding leaks in the garage.

4mm irrigation line would work too instead of the clear plastic. Easy to get T-joints too.

[Padmei]

Great job and very interesting.

Might I suggest the addition of a small tap in the line. A 4mm irrigation-tube tap will work. That way you can turn the oil supply off thus avoiding leaks in the garage.

4mm irrigation line would work too instead of the clear plastic. Easy to get T-joints too.

Thanks. I think I would use it whilst riding. squeeze the bottle at a gas station fill up then let it trickle down whilst riding away. The bottle stays in upright position so hopefully no leakage.