Splitting a cam chain?

[Magua]

It's probably time I replaced my cam chain, the tensioner doesn't seem to be making any difference. Replacing the chain seems like a big job, splitting the cases (no way do I want to risk marking the cases). Has anyone here installed a chain by splitting it? How did you go about doing it? I would assume sticking the bike into top gear and rolling the rear wheel to feed the new chain through?

Also, is there anything else I should be replacing in that area while I'm at it?

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_28571/
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_3496/
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_3497/
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_3498/

[tri boy]

Pull the cam shaft out. Split the old chain, and secure the new split chain to the old one with locking wire, or light gauge welding wire. (make sure it is secured with a good twist, and the distance/gap between old and new links is similar to the chain pitch).
Slowly feed the new chain through via turning the crank with a socket n knuckle bar for feel, being especially vigilant to any snags or lock ups as it goes around the crank teeth.
When rejoining the new chain, dont over peen the pin, as this can be a bitch to free up. DAMHIK
Very common w/shop job, when CB750/900/VF/VT, and every other fecking Onda had shitty tensioners.
Good Luck.

[Magua]

So I just need the one soft link? Nothing else I should be looking to replace at the same time? I guess it can't be said with any certainty until it's been opened up.

[tri boy]

Basic inspection down the cam chain well with a torch, just to confirm the chain guide is in decent condition. (expect some grooving, but if it's in one piece, all is good).
Also give the tensioner a good check. Lock bolt n nut, and plunger all need to be in good condition. Does it have a "split spear" type tensioner shaft? Look for wear on the taper surface, or where the lock bolt engages on it. A bit of wear is ok, but really mangled parts should be discarded.
Last bit of advice. Put a rag over/in the chain tunnel when you are joining or riveting. Things mysteriously fall into the abyss extremely easily. DAMHIK
Oh, really, you should only need one joining link. But Murphy's law says get a spare one, cos they are cheap, and the dark abyss swallows little things with ease.

[Ixion]

Amend that. Put a rag in the tunnel as soon as you open the thing up. Don't wait till you're splitting the chain. Little parts have a homing instinct for exposed orifices in engines, they will leap into them from 20 foot away, of their own volition. Ask Mr Renegade Master!

[vifferman]

Little parts have a homing instinct for exposed orifices in engines, they will leap into them from 20 foot away, of their own volition.

It's a kind of localised black hole / gravity anomaly. Similar ones are installed in the V of v-twins and v-fours.

[Magua]

Econohonda don't sell links anymore, but note that it's common practice to split the chain and reconnect the link.

However they warn me not to do it if it's going to be potentially dangerous, uh what?

Edit, ohhhhh I fail at reading. "We would not suggest that you do this if it was in any way potentially dangerous" In other words, they don't think it's dangerous to split the new chain without a soft link.

[tri boy]

Soft links are for pussies any way.
Split dozens of chains off the industrial bulk rolls that "proper" m/cycle shops stocked years ago.
The only tricky bit is keeping the pin you pushed out, holding onto the last outer link. (do this, so it is easy to rejoin the chain. Very difficult to tap a loose pin back into the outer link, while it's already in the engine. One miss hit, and you can damage surrounding cam bearings etc).

Just use multi grips to carefully push the pin back through the links, and give the pin a light peen once fitted. Easy peasy.

[rok-the-boat]

I have no idea what a soft link is - must be softer metal to make it easier huh? Anyway, I did this on a couple of bikes about 20 years ago. I split the chain (ransom link) and just joined it up again with a bicycle link splitter / joining tool. The trick is that when you split the chain, you do it very carefully so as not to let the pin pop out of the final plate. And if it does, you need to press it back in before you begin to put it back. A vice might help. Oh, and stuff lots of rags everywhere to catch the bits that WILL fall into your engine. And when you get the pin back in, it needs a bit of a press to mushrom it, just to be sure, then, pressit from either side a tad to loosen it off as it will likely be a stiff fit. And if your engine blows up, don't blame me :-)