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Thread: Point ignition wiring help

  1. #16
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    Yeah car coil is usually fine with points. Its only when bloody transistors and shit comes into it that it gets complicated.

    I remember when there were only two types of coil . For EVERYTHING. Cars bikes boats planes whatever. Lucas for Briddish stuff. And AC-Delco for Yank stuff. Easy.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  2. #17
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    the brother from lyal bay has a link in his thread to another forum with a lot of wiring diagrams

  3. #18
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    20th November 2002 - 11:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by craisin View Post
    the brother from lyal bay has a link in his thread to another forum with a lot of wiring diagrams
    Cheers - seen that and copied a few. I can get a bulb to glow with the LT side but no spark (coil comes from a running 6 volt bike).

  4. #19
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    16th February 2007 - 08:25
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    if you want me to come over at some stage and have a look,
    im not too far away,
    my little 120 also runs a 6 volt system so could try out the coil ect,

    have fun

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmmmnz View Post
    if you want me to come over at some stage and have a look,
    im not too far away,
    my little 120 also runs a 6 volt system so could try out the coil ect,

    have fun
    Thanks for the offer. I'll PM you if I get stuck. I'm going to follow one of the wiring diagrams you posted. Only has two wires I need so what could possibly go wrong?

  6. #21
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    lol, famous last words if i have ever heard em
    have fun

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    Thanks for the offer. I'll PM you if I get stuck. I'm going to follow one of the wiring diagrams you posted. Only has two wires I need so what could possibly go wrong?
    you could get the wires wrong on the coil and you need a condensor to suit the coil

  8. #23
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    OK, I've a spark but it's really random. I'm thinking I need to adjust the points a bit but have no idea how to do that on this thing. TDC I can't get at the points due to the flywheel... That the flywheel off and there goes the cam the points run on. I'm only used to cars when it comes to points so if anyone can help...

  9. #24
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    16th February 2007 - 08:25
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    you should be able to get to the points and adjust the gap through the hole in the flywheel,
    the flywheel should have a mark for tdc and when it fires,
    may be the points are a bit corroided and need a wee bit of a sand?

  10. #25
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    26th February 2005 - 15:10
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    Check that the flywheel is running true.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  11. #26
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    Thanks guys.
    Flywheel is off-centre by 0.5mm. I found the TDC 'mark' is not the TDC mark. I've now aligned it to true TDC and now can get at the points to adjust them. I've given the points a clean up and made a key for the flywheel
    What would a standard gap be?

  12. #27
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    16th February 2007 - 08:25
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    0.3-0.4mm is the standard gap

  13. #28
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    I'll see how good I am at setting that then.

  14. #29
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    I used to change the timing little bits by altering the gap. It'll be a points magneto, they pretty well all were back then. The kill switch and ignition switch would have been in parallel with the ignition coil. Either kill or ignition switch would have shorted electricity to the ignition coil to ground to stop the motor. In these simple systems the spark occurs when the points open, just like a kettering system. To eliminate possible problems just run a wire from the generator coil straight to the ignition coil. The other side of the ignition coil will be connected to ground and the other side of the generator coil will be connected to the points and condenser. You need the condenser, not to stop the points sparking but to form a resonant circuit with the coils thereby enhancing the spark. Trash the wiring loom, you only need one wire.

    Actually what you need is a good CDI ignition. Even on my first bucket, an AC50 back in '83, it was obvious that with any tuning that the ignition didn't hack it. I designed and built a battery powered, points triggered(with debounce circuit), CDI. It could throw a 15mm fat blue spark at the equivalent spark rate of a V8 at 10,000rpm.

  15. #30
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    You'll know when you have the gap right as the "F" mark will line up when the spark fires. That's the only adjustment in stock form.

    The correct coil will have "AC" on it, for AC magneto. A coil for a points or transistor assisted system will have "DC" on it and a cdi coil will have "CDI" on it. They are not interchangeable, for best results, ideally.

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