don't fuck it in the arse on the first date. then it will always come back for more :0
don't fuck it in the arse on the first date. then it will always come back for more :0
Point noted. Thats a lot of data for a bike to record over its lifetime. You would have to have a digital speedo, rpm counter, angle/lean sensor, air/fuel ratio, throttle position, millage counter as well as time and date to accurately depict how the bike was being ridden. I think that might be too much for the manufacturer to put in "just on case" someone doesnt break it to their specs. Would need a terabyte of space at least to record that
As stated above, the logic behind the slow break in ends up costing you more in the long run and doesnt make sense from a mechanical perspective.
www.southernrider.co.nz - come ride the southern roads with us
I'm curious - does the aforementioned "Go hard" running in procedure work only on 4 strokes or 2 strokes as well?
If so/not, how come?
Im exaggerating with the terabyte but what exactly is "the threshold"? In order for the warranty to be voided you would need to know the; rpm, millage, speed, gear position, time and date at the very minimum to provide sufficient evidence to claim that the warranty was voided.
If the "exceeded threshold" marker was based solely on rpm, a quick blip of the throttle would be all thats needed.
And really, have you heard of a manufacturer that has used the ECU as evidence for a voided warranty claim?![]()
I would say yes because when you run it in "hard" you are sealing the rings on the piston bore to get a good even seal. I would imagine that it would give an ever better result in engine performance and wear on a 2smoker. This break in would apply to all engines as they all work the same way, but im not an expert like motoman![]()
mileage, it's got the odometer (either in it or availalble - 'tis all electronic these days) as with speedo, gear can be calculated with the rpm and speed (be a shitty ecu that doesn't know rpm. I don't think date and would be neccaccery
and you would do the calculations based on sustained actions so that the blips would be ignored
and, no i haven't heard of it so i'll shut up now.
'tis just what i would have done for use in cases where the bike was flogged to death and the person who did it was insisting on warranty.
www.southernrider.co.nz - come ride the southern roads with us
mileage, ha damn spellcheck! good point on all the above :niceone
i agree, i would put in something like that for checking break in procedure (my new ninja is all analogue) but the reality is that you would have to dismantle the engine to verify it. Busted rings, worn bottom end or something similar??
If i had the money i would experiment with 2 new bikes, break one in gently and the other hard then dyno at 2000km and see which has the higher horsepower.
Yeah, make sure you don't use synthetic until it's broken in as well.
Hey fellow Ninja owner! I baught my Ninja new too. I took it easy for the first 1000 kms, always warm it up and varied the load through gears etc. These bikes love to be ridden and the guy from the shop told me if you nana it, you'll get on one that has been ridden as it should and they will be two completley different bikes.
I certianly ride mine but I look after it all the same. I think getting their services at the mentioned time is also a good thing.
I hope you love your Ninja as much as me! Enjoy
Were are those winning numbers for lotto again..... Having to sell all your toys sucks
Ride it like you stole it, but service it according to the manual. If you run your bike in too gently the piston rings will not seal properly and your bike will be slower than it should be.
Ride fast or be last.
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