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Thread: Just a little idea for nyloning my bucket

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbks View Post
    Also, do you need a catch can? Theres a tube out from the top of my sump so I figured I might need to attach an empty coke can or something incase it leeks out?
    Yes to that. Required. Also catch any other fluids that might leak - fuel overflow, radiator - if required.

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    Yeah, I sort of get that. But I've seen bikes sliding along upside down sliding on the fuel tank with the wheels in the air. And I guess the filler cap would leave quite a scratch.

    So what I'm getting at, is how far do you take it?

    I gather that the standard setup is crash bungs on the swing arm or axle end; handlebar ends; and foot pegs. Anything else ? Front axle? Gear lever? Rear brake pedal?
    wrap the whole bike in nylon

    or you could make it out of nylon

    I saw a picture of a bike made out of 4x2 planks that wouldn't scratch
    "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
    “Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckets4Me View Post
    wrap the whole bike in nylon

    or you could make it out of nylon

    I saw a picture of a bike made out of 4x2 planks that wouldn't scratch
    so where can we find the rules?
    forsale A100,awesome power.
    near ready for bucket raceing,or just a padock,beach hack.
    gotta be a good deal,surely

  4. #49
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    Fixing Nylon

    This is how I did it on the Delta.

    You can buy blocks of plastic from manufacturers scrap bins( There's one off ellice road on the shore). I brought a shit load fo 15 bucks.

    On the forks I cut some 20mm blocks, drilled through the sides. Then zipped them on. Won't hold. you say !. Well they survived two major crashes at Taumarunui ( eh b4me ). Admittedly 1 zip broke and was replaced.

    The rear was easy as. Yamaha kindly fixed some threaded fixings into the swing arm which I used and also double as stand supports to remove the back wheel. No reason why these couldn't be zipped tho.
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  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by piston broke View Post
    so where can we find the rules?
    There are no official rules on nylon as we only do it to protect Kart tracks at the request of the track owners. The basic idea is:
    If it can mark the track, cover it.


    I replace my gear lever peg and rear brake lever peg with nylon. Not the arm, just the peg. Or cover it or screw a block under it.

    I'll take some photos of mine as I have used different methods on each bike.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    Yes to that. Required. Also catch any other fluids that might leak - fuel overflow, radiator - if required.
    I'll get to it. Just a regular fizzy drink can secured to the bike with the tube into it will do? And I see that guy's got is brake clamp bolts wired up... I will have my sump plug wired up, but is it really necessary to do any other bolts? I probably won't do any more than plug the bars with wine corks, and put skateboard wheels on the swingarm and fork to cover the axles and they should be long enough on the swingarm to hold the rest of the steel off the track when it's on its side

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    There are no official rules on nylon as we only do it to protect Kart tracks at the request of the track owners. The basic idea is:
    If it can mark the track, cover it.


    I replace my gear lever peg and rear brake lever peg with nylon. Not the arm, just the peg. Or cover it or screw a block under it.

    I'll take some photos of mine as I have used different methods on each bike.
    that would be great skunk,cheers.
    on the a100 i can't see the point for the front forks as the bolts are recessed.
    i will put sometthin on the rear brake pedal tho.
    ta
    forsale A100,awesome power.
    near ready for bucket raceing,or just a padock,beach hack.
    gotta be a good deal,surely

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbks View Post
    I'll get to it. Just a regular fizzy drink can secured to the bike with the tube into it will do? And I see that guy's got is brake clamp bolts wired up... I will have my sump plug wired up, but is it really necessary to do any other bolts? I probably won't do any more than plug the bars with wine corks, and put skateboard wheels on the swingarm and fork to cover the axles and they should be long enough on the swingarm to hold the rest of the steel off the track when it's on its side
    Yep, that should be fine. I used a Woodstock 440ml can for three years... Lockwiring everything is a 'good idea'™ but not really required. Lockwiring anything that could leak is required. R clips or split pins in the axle nuts is usually required too.

    Strangely most of this is covered on the Bucket Racing website

  9. #54
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    I thought plastic wine bottle tops were no good for bar ends, they simply break up on impact.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kendog View Post
    I thought plastic wine bottle tops were no good for bar ends, they simply break up on impact.
    They're not the best. One crash wonders if that. Best to get nylon bar and turn the end down to size. WarrenW on here offers this at cheap rates.

  11. #56
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    Nylon bar costs. How about if I fill the bottle tops with bog?
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  12. #57
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    or maybe epoxy?
    forsale A100,awesome power.
    near ready for bucket raceing,or just a padock,beach hack.
    gotta be a good deal,surely

  13. #58
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    use a hunk of broom handle and wittle it down to fit the handle bar

    who said it had to be nylon just that it wasent ment to scratch the track
    "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
    “Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower

  14. #59
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    Cheap nylon is called acetal. $5 goes a looonnng way.

    Quote Originally Posted by wikipedia
    Polyoxymethylene (POM), in the USA also commonly known under DuPont's brand name Delrin, is an engineering plastic, a polymer with the chemical formula -(-O-CH2-)n-. It is often marketed and used as a metal substitute. Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction, and wear-resistant thermoplastic with good physical and processing properties and capable of operating in temperatures in excess of 90 degrees celsius (approximately 200 degrees fahrenheit). According to the material safety data sheet from DuPont, the material has a slight odor of formaldehyde.[1]
    It is also known as polyacetal, acetal resin, polytrioxane, polyformaldehyde, and paraformaldehyde (the latter term is usually restricted to the short-chained polymer). Polyacetals are sold under the trade names Delrin, Kepital, Celcon, Hostaform, Iupital[2] and Ultraform[3], the last five being copolymers.
    Delrin was first synthesized by DuPont's research chemists around 1952. The company filed for patent protection of the material in 1956 and completed construction of a plant to produce the material at Parkersburg, West Virginia in 1960. Another form of the polymer was developed in Europe.

  15. #60
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    Polyoxymethylene (POM), in the USA also commonly known under DuPont's brand name Delrin, is an engineering plastic, a polymer with the chemical formula -(-O-CH2-)n-. It is often marketed and used as a metal substitute. Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction,.............etc.



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