The BMW GS boxer twin thread

**Waihou Thumper** · 5th January 2014, 09:26

Originally Posted by Logmaker

Hi there WT what is the seat height & peg to seat height on your PD ??

The height from peg to seat is approx 52cm. As for the height overall, it was 95cm on the centrestand, so knock off about 30cm give or take.

Originally Posted by BMWST?

So WT,do have the new style switches(indicator switches both sides?)

No....I do not. I wanna get them though, should I ? I guess new grips and combination blocks?
Bet they are expensive too....Seen some on eBay for other models. I don't know enough about electrics to know whether 1150gs, 1100gs, ST etc will fit. No ABS of course.

**BMWST?** · 5th January 2014, 10:08

Originally Posted by Waihou Thumper

The height from peg to seat is approx 52cm. As for the height overall, it was 95cm on the centrestand, so knock off about 30cm give or take.

No....I do not. I wanna get them though, should I ? I guess new grips and combination blocks?
Bet they are expensive too....Seen some on eBay for other models. I don't know enough about electrics to know whether 1150gs, 1100gs, ST etc will fit. No ABS of course.

The "new style" switches actually came out on the k100 in about 85 or so,i think the r bikes got them in 92 or so,eddies r100 had them,not sure about retro fitting,my r100gspd is a twin of yours cept the seat is recovered and the front fender is all white,and the tank decals are quite faded

**Waihou Thumper** · 5th January 2014, 10:24

Originally Posted by BMWST?

The "new style" switches actually came out on the k100 in about 85 or so,i think the r bikes got them in 92 or so,eddies r100 had them,not sure about retro fitting,my r100gspd is a twin of yours cept the seat is recovered and the front fender is all white,and the tank decals are quite faded

Might be able to be retro fitted...Bloody expensive though, not worth it me thinks...Geez!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-1989-199...24e7eb&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-1989-199...fa4303&vxp=mtr

**Box'a'bits** · 5th January 2014, 14:07

Don't know why you would want to. A lot more complex than it at first appears. You would need a new loom & indicator flasher unit. It is not plug & play.

My recommendation is not to chop that bike around. It's too nice. Unlike Gus was. You will lose value.

**Waihou Thumper** · 5th January 2014, 14:28

Originally Posted by Box'a'bits

Don't know why you would want to. A lot more complex than it at first appears. You would need a new loom & indicator flasher unit. It is not plug & play.

My recommendation is not to chop that bike around. It's too nice. Unlike Gus was. You will lose value.

Yep, had already considered this after looking at the bike this morning. Thanks for the comments re - it's too nice... It is...
I am going to leave it as is, ride it and not farkle it or dismantle it and lose nuts and bolts in the process.
As happens in too many forums, owners can be distracted by 'snowed' in ADV riders who decide to re-invent the wheel and post so-called improvements or scare the hell out of other owners thinking every model of bike is gonna throw a third gear, seal, doo-hickey, balancer shaft seal....etc.

Ride it, change the oil frequently (10,000) km, ride it and keep it.....
I will be changing oil more frequently...(but I was recommended this interval)

There is one thing that I would spring for though (when I win lotto)....Single seat and rack system to allow more luggage and make it more valuable as it would have true dual capabilities...single rider, two-up etc.

**Box'a'bits** · 5th January 2014, 16:07

The single seat is reputed to be less comfortable than the dual seat, partially because it locks you into one position. I keep looking at the Touratech version with in built rack but that is more $ than I have readily available.

Farkle away - but keep the stock parts & make sure you can bolt them all back together before you can sell. Some well executed farkles & improvements for the bike are good. Phil's is an example of these. The farkles aren't obvious unless you know what to look for, & improve the overall utility of the bike.

I'd look at an uprated front brake if that hasn't already been done - a 4 pot brembo from a later BMW fits with a small amount of machine work. An uprated shock would also been good - I think you still have a stocker. Don't go Hagon for the GS.

I change the oils every 3-5k kms, & the oil filter every 2nd change. Remember that it's air cooled, so the engine goes thru a great temp range. Oil is cheap - 4T Castrol, or any 10w-40 dino car oil with lots of zinc in it (SG rating, nothing later). Don't use synthetic - the seals will start to leak. Gearbox & diff GL-5 80/90w every 5-10k kms dependent on water & dust contamination.

**Waihou Thumper** · 5th January 2014, 16:20

Originally Posted by Box'a'bits

I change the oils every 3-5k kms, & the oil filter every 2nd change. Remember that it's air cooled, so the engine goes thru a great temp range. Oil is cheap - 4T Castrol, or any 10w-40 dino car oil with lots of zinc in it (SG rating, nothing later). Don't use synthetic - the seals will start to leak. Gearbox & diff GL-5 80/90w every 5-10k kms dependent on water & dust contamination.

Thanks, I see you added that a bit later....Good information. Yep, knew about synthetic oil...
Get your filters from whom and how much? Not oil amount but filter price..hehe

**Box'a'bits** · 5th January 2014, 16:26

Originally Posted by Waihou Thumper

Thanks, I see you added that a bit later....Good information. Yep, knew about synthetic oil...
Get your filters from whom and how much? Not oil amount but filter price..hehe

I get a bulk lot of filters in - from the UK if I'm doing an order, or from Porirua (Trademe - ANP209 $29) if not. I use the Mahle OX36 filter (OEM) - not keen on the cheaper filters - seen some collapse.

**Box'a'bits** · 5th January 2014, 16:29

Have you read the $2,000 o-ring? Good to keep an eye on the filter cannister depth, even on high mileage bikes. Gus just uses the o-ring + 1 shim, no gasket.

**Waihou Thumper** · 5th January 2014, 16:41

Originally Posted by Box'a'bits

Have you read the $2,000 o-ring? Good to keep an eye on the filter cannister depth, even on high mileage bikes. Gus just uses the o-ring + 1 shim, no gasket.

Thanks...$2000 - $4000

http://largiader.com/tech/filters/

**BMWST?** · 5th January 2014, 19:19

for what they are i think a decent front brake rear shock and some work on the front suspension.I think a PD is worth keeping stock looking as they a sorta iconic bike,and a damn useable one at that.Mine is far from mint but i aim to keep it as stock looking and undamaged as possible.

**Padmei** · 6th January 2014, 06:53

Originally Posted by BMWST?

for what they are i think a decent front brake rear shock and some work on the front suspension.I think a PD is worth keeping stock looking as they a sorta iconic bike,and a damn useable one at that.Mine is far from mint but i aim to keep it as stock looking and undamaged as possible.

mine too.

ftcr

**Waihou Thumper** · 6th January 2014, 07:36

Handy little tool this.

http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

So, my bike is a 47E1, manufactured 1990/06
Registered in NZ as a 1991, as most models are..

**Waihou Thumper** · 7th January 2014, 12:57

Found this on Vimeo...Well made. BMW riders in Europe....and the UK

**Waihou Thumper** · 7th January 2014, 13:29

Or in fact BMW bikes....

When I key the ignition, all of the lights are on except the neutral light. It randomly happens.
I flick the gearshift lever up and down and eventually it comes on and shows neutral...
I figure that the switch is faulty...(that wasn't too difficult)

I then read http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=806428
and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=798471
and just like my Suzuki, hold the clutch ever in and the bike starts anyway....the bike is fooled! and will start in gear or out of gear.
Just keep doing this or get the switch fixed? Anyone else have this issue or have had this issue?
Is it a costly fix? Or just leave it alone and forget about it....